Five foot ways and pasar malam

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After spending enough time in the air conditioned comfort of Kuantan’s Megamall and other similar complexes, we decided that we really needed to get out and about the streets of the town. Sections of it have really changed, with hawkers food stalls being shifted across town to make way for a carpark, cinemas from Jo’s childhood being shutdown, and new shops replacing old ones. Most of the changes seem to have happened in the past three years since our last visit.

The central part of Kuantan town is along Jalan Mahkota, a road paralleling the Kuantan River just above where it empties into the South China Sea. The shop blocks along this street are still the old colonial structures featuring a covered walkway under an overhang; these are called “5 foot ways”. The actual sidewalk is fairly narrow, but it is kept fairly clear and is easy to navigate. It’s a good thing, because between the sidewalk and the road is usually a deep open drain made to handle the drain off from tropical downpours. Walkers have to be careful not to step carelessly into one as it would not be a fun experience to fall into the drain…yuck, all sorts of run off flows through them when it’s not raining. They also add to the wonderful aroma of the city…ok, maybe not.

Right in the center of town is the Masjid (Mosque) Sultan Haji Ahmad Shah, which is the state mosque for Pahang state. It’s really quite a striking site, painted blue and white with a large central dome and 4 towering minarets. I’d always wanted to have a look inside, but never got around to it until the other day. I was going to take the kids, but they happened to be wearing shorts on our jaunt around town and Jo had no desire to go inside. I might just as well stayed outside as I couldn’t see much from the area I was allowed to walk around in thanks to a perhaps overzealous old security guard. Despite signs welcoming visitors to look around, he kept me to just a small area. Prayers weren’t going on, but there were people in the building, mostly men, but also lots of school children there for religious education. I was disappointed that I couldn’t look up into the dome from my vantage point, though the area of the building I was allowed in had a large open airy feel to it. As I walked around, I had the chance to speak to several men who said hello to me and wanted to know where I was from. They were really very pleasant and invited questions. A few were interested to know about president Bush and his motives; of course, I couldn’t really tell them anything as I too am baffled. The visit was worthwhile after all. I would like to return and tour the rest of the building if possible.

We’ve been keeping track of the high/low tide times, so that we can visit the beach and explore and play at low tide. It’s a great place for Viv and me to kick the soccer ball around and wade in the water.

At various places around town during the week, there are the “pasar malam”, or night markets. They set up awnings and stalls to sell all sorts of things from fruit, veggies, and meat to watches, wallets and clothes. Lot of food is to be had for eating on the spot as well, so they are popular places for Malaysians to frequent. They appear all over town, in the middle of streets shut down for the purpose, in parks, and small neighborhood streets. Lots of deals are to be had here too, as haggling over prices is expected.

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Photos

The shops along Jalan Mahkota
See the 5 foot walkway under the small arch on the left

the five-foot way
The long corridor created by the colonial buildings in Malaysia. It keeps you away from traffic and in the shade.

State Masjid of Pahang
The Sultan Haji Ahmed Shah mosque in central Kuantan

Roti chani maker
part of the fun of eating it is watching it being made

Jo having roti chanai
One of our favorite meals, at home in St. Louis and especially here in M'sia, is roti chanai, a flaky unleavened bread eaten with a curry sauce. I'm not too fond of spicy food for breakfast, but I make an exception for this! It goes great with a tall glass of "kopi ping" (coffee with ice).

Rambutans!!!
"Rambut" means hair in Malay, and these delicious fruit go by the name rambutan because they look sort of hairy. You crack them open and eat the sweet lychee like fruit....mmmmmm sedap!.

Fishmonger at pasar malam
taken at Taman Gelora in Kuantan as fresh as can be being as it's only 200 yards from the ocean

Pile of...durian
One for the stinkier fruit in southeast Asia. I've tried to like this for the past 15 years, and just can't. It smells horrible but has a creamy textured fruit inside. After eating it, you feel quite warm...or "heaty" as some say here. Jo loves it...needless to say...I don't. Any fruit that is actually prohibited from being taken aboard airplane flights or brought into certain buildings I'll give a pass, thank you.

Comments

[Aunt Joyce]

Cosmopolitan Cuisine
Wow, Keith, what exotic foods you are finding! It's neat to read about all your adventures. Bob and I both drink "kopi ping" every day. And don't worry if you don't like everything. You're doing great considering as a child you only ate boloney and hot dogs. Keep having fun and hi to all the family.

[rhughes/stlcc]

Enjoying the travelblog
Nice work! I hope all goes well and that you keep posting. I hope to show my kids these blogs. I don't know if you can respond to questions here, but I was wondering if Islam is the majority religion in the area or just one of a number? That mosque appeared to be fantastic! I'll be anxiously awaiting your next communication. Happy travels!

[KC and Crew]

Muslims in Malaysia...
Hi Ron, To answer your question...yes. Islam is the official/state religion. There are three main ethnic groups here in the country: the Malays 50% of the population (all of whom are automatically Muslim from birth) , the Chinese roughly 25%(who follow Buddhism and Christianity, but they can also be Hindu or Muslim), and the Indians about 10%(who also follow any of the four, though they mainly Hindu, Sikh, but also Christian, Muslim). There are also other indiginous peoples that make up the rest of the pop; they are counted as Muslim generally, but can be other including animistic....So, in short...a few key ethnic groups, but lots of religions...Islam being the official one. Cheers..KH