Southeast Asia

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Laos, one of the most magical and beautiful lands I have ever visited. I had the pleasure of spending one month, coming in on the two day slow boat (okay, it was not really a pleasure, the view of the Mekong was specatacular, but being crammed onto wooden benches with 110 people and a motorbike when there was only room for 45 was tough...fortunately the fumes in the baggage/engine room knocked me out and I was able to sleep through part of it) to Luang Prabang, the most beautiful town I have ever visited.

palm trees, french colonial villas, baguettes....our guesthouse was managed by Kong, with a huge smile, who invited his friends over for beer lao parties when they sat in a circle and passed around one cup and invited us to join. Sunsets were spectacular affairs (people burn their own garbage in laos, including lots of tires and plastics, so the haze makes the most spectacular sunsets) involving watching mothers with their children, playing on the table while they made dinner, or being washed in basins, children playing with impromptu toys in the street with big smiles, golden temples changing colours in the sun, orange monks robes drying on lines or hiding little monks playing kick ball and saying "sabadee!" with big smiles, christmas lights everywhere....the mekong changing colour, fishermen throwing out their nets, the ferryman waiting patiently all day waiting to ferry someone across....

Local delicacies included dried mekong river moss and lao lap, minced meat and lots and lots of spices! And of course the baguettes, left over from french colonial rule.

Another highlight was the local steambath massage, where the most fantastic massage in asia (3$) was followed by a lovely herbal steam room followed by drinking tea on the veranda.

After Luang Prabang, so hard to leave ! Was Vang Vieng. Although a backpackers mecca and a quiet touristy town, we stayed at Maylyn (we being me and the lovely Jason, who I met shortly after arriving in Thailand and have been travelling with ever since) guesthouse across the river and it was like another world. Our own bungalows with a butterfly, puppy, kitten and children filled garden and characters like pushup Bob, cranky Joe and Tokin Mullet Hippie Oshen to keep us company. Also the country side was amazing, full of lao huts and people bathing their children in the rivers, caves, a lagoon, oxen, rice paddies, and the amazing karst moutains. My most memorable night included a full day bike ride starting just before sunset around 3, over the orange gravel road past the fields, stopping at a river to swim with the children, and ending up for a fish dinner at snake cave after resting in a deserted hut near the jungle. On return I passed burning fires and locals in circles, with the full moon lighting my way, I stopped at a deserted grass bonfire and danced under the full moon in homage to the beauty and it was lovely. Also swimming in the lagoon withthe kids, and tubing and swinging from huge tree swings like kids was amazing. Oh yes, swimming into a dark underground cave with Jason was breathtaking too, and scary! I must admit I wimped out and had to go back, in fear that our cheap headlamps would give out and leave us lost.

Next up was Vientiane, where I only planned to spend a day but stayed a week, too lazy to move on. A week in each place is my minimum really. Swimming in the local pool, visiting the temple herbal steam loft and massage, going dancing with the locals, eating at cafes, going to the golden wat, buddha park, and trying to sleep amongs the noise of constant construction, roosters and neighboorhood parties kept me busy, along with eating chicken with ginger and steamed rice with watermelon shakes by the mekong each night. My last day was a visit to Ban Pako 50km outside of Vientiane (but a 2.5 local busride amidst crates of food being loaded on and off each 5 min and a boat ride later, it seemed much farther!) , where I took in a steam bath in the forest and a lovely sunset before heading back to Vientiane to be overwhelmed by the horrendous air which I had not realized I had escaped.

Aaah Laos, I love you. Now, to Northern Thailand to rest in Pai for a while before possibly hitting up a wat for 10 days of meditation.

The people in laos where the most down to earth, natural people I have ever seen, it really moved me, and I know I will be back.

Kisses to you, sacred land,
iva

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