News from Luang Prabang

o.k. I just figured out(I hope!) how this travel blog thing works, and have posted two old blogs, and sent out an e-mail, telling all e-mail contacts the blog exisits...hope someone subscribes!!

I'll fill in some of the gaps that have not been in e-mails:

1. where I'm living:
I haven't spoken much about my new place. to be honest, the reason is this: it is a lovely, spacious and quite wonderful place, and I'm rather embarrassed! Before I left home, my idea was to visit several of the guest houses in Luang Prabang, and find a reasonable place that was willing to make a deal for a long stay-after all, I would be occupying the room for over two months. No one, and I mean no one, was interested in making a deal. They all offered me the daily rate, for high season. The cost was just out of sight-a fair guest house here is now $50-$60 per night. Fancy places are over $100 per night. Mid-range hotels are $150, and up, and high-end hotels are $300+ (not many of them, but five or six). These prices are way, way higher than January 2008, when I was last here. I was in a real panic. Of course, there are some very low end, budget priced places that are cheaper, but they come with bugs and windows are optional, and not always available. Despite what some of you(e.g. my children) think, I do not require luxury, but a window is a must. Also, being on my own made security and safety a priority. I made a new will before I left, but would much prefer that it not be put to use for many, many years.

At some of the guest houses I visited, staff indicated their Mother/sister/aunt had a house/apartment to rent, and did I want to see it...after four of these experiences, I gave up. In all cases, the "house/apartment" was located at the rear of the main house, and accessed by walking through someone's livingroom/kitchen. None of them had a washroom-sorry, it's the North American in me that considers access to running water and a toilet a necessity. Perhaps for a night or two, sharing with a family of six (or twelve-who knows??) would be an adventure,but for two months, I was just not for it. And did I mention smelly and dirty? I would much have preferred a wooden stilt house in the country-THAT would have been o.k, but then access to town would be a problem.


So, I was wandering around, really hot and getting quite panicy, when I found these places called The Mekong Estates. They were mentioned in my Travelfish (internet info on Asia-really good) documents. There is no sign-at all. I just happened to ask, our of desperation, at a book store, called Monument Books. They suggested I ask a guy across the street who was washing his motorbike. So, I did. And, he said, yes, this is the Mekong Estates,and I am the Assistant Manager-would you like to see a unit? Yes! Yes! I says.

The next day, I met with the Manager, and negotiated a two month stay. So, that is the story of how I ended up at a truly lovely place. I think both the Assistant Manager (Loas) and the Manager (French) were astonished I was here for two months on my own.

Downstairs, I have a small living room, which is long and skinny, with not much furniture-actually, it is really like a big hall. Behind that is a little area with a table and two chairs, then a little kitchen, and a bathroom.

Upstairs, I have a bedroom, a bathroom with shower (a real shower stall-no getting the whole bathroom wet and having to remember to remove the t.p. before you shower) and a lovely little balcony, which looks out over the street,and I can see just a little bit of the Mekong River.

I am very close to a lovely wat (temple). They play the temple drum at 4:30 a.m. to wake up the monks. It is rather a lovely sound, and easy to go back to sleep afterwards. I have been getting up really early-so far, 6:15 is the latest.

The arrangement I have with MekongEstates includes a continental breakfast each day. This is brought to me by a local resturant, by two chaps on a motor bike....quite a production.

Yesterday at BBM, I met an American woman who is over here trying to set an NGO-more about that later. For now, she is doing some teaching (English, of course) at 5:00p.m. Her class was HUGE, so I have agreed to help out-last night was my first night, and I have to go now to get over to her house so we can take a tuk-tuk to the school for our night class.

More later.

My place at Mekong Estates is lovely, and I would welcome guests.

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