Vientiane via Forested Karst

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With nose pressed up against the bus window, the Laotion countryside glides past. The decision to take the bus rather the fly from Luang Prabang to Vientiane is correct. A ribbon of bitumen winds its way through the forested karst to Vangvieng. Karst is a topography where carbonate rocks (limestone, dolomite or marble) have been dissolve by carbonated water resulting in a landscape consisted of steep gorges, sinkholes, disappearing and reappearing rivers and springs. Though is can be seen from the road that much of it has been cleared. Roadside villages consisting of a few thatched houses mounted on stilts are located every few kilometers. Some have houses with satellite dishes, many do not. Often the village is located on the edge of what seems to be looking from the bus, a precipice. I suppose people who live here farm and grow fruits on small hillside plots. We stop for lunch, at Kasi, perhaps. Lunch included in the bus fare is a simple affair consisting of noodles and vegetables in a bowl of warm water. I did not find it very appetizing, but other passengers down it with glee! We continue, some of the passenger alighting at Vangieng. Located about half way between Luang Prabang and Vientiane this town is popular with backpackers. A trip down the river on a tyre is a must do for those who stay. But I continue onwards, reaching Vientiane at dusk.

Having done a little bit of exploration by foot the previous night, I lash out and rent a bicycle for 10,000 kip, which seems like a lot of money, but is equivalent to a $US1. A Saturday, my Vat explorations are frustrated as most of the ones I visit are closed. Though closed many of their grounds are frequented by kids trying to sell post cards, bangles etc. When disinterest is indicated they resort to begging for money. I informed them that begging at their age was is not good thing. Did the message register, probably not!

Vat Sisaket is open and a fee of 10,000 kip is required to enter. Built in 1818, and surviving the Siamese sacking of Vientiane in 1828, the main temple is surrounded by a cloister which contains over 300 standing or seated statues of the Budda. Placed within clothes iron shaped indentations in the cloisture walls are 1000's of small silver or ceramic Budda statues. The total number of Buddas in this Vat is estimated to be around 6000. Like Vientiane the Vat is a little dilapidated but it is being restored. While I was visiting craftspeople were working on carving new Budda images.

Restoration is occurring in the general area of Vientiane. Dilapidated sidewalks, footpaths and roads are being restored. New buildings designed in a "Loation' style are being erected. When finished Vientiane will be a very pleasant little city. I don't see any statues of the heros of communism eg Marx, Engles, Stalin. But I see many Coca-Cola and Honda signs. Perhaps the consequences of another government which is communist only in name.

Leaving Vat Sisaket and after downing yet another banana fruit shake I visit another Vat. Here I met a Buddist novice who could speak a little english tries to explain to me the tenets of Buddism. He wanted me to see nine Buddas mounted in a circular configuration under a tree. He said it was good luck if you prayed in front of the Budda representing the day of your birth date. Friday,my Budda was a standing budda.

Saw these structures, either free standing or a part of the vat wall. They were rectangular solids with a chedi like structure on top. Initially I didn't take any notice of them, but on closer exspection I could see they were mausoleums. One side had a little door which assumely the ashes are stored and on another surface was a photograph with the person's name and the dates of their birth and deaths.

Dusk again, comes so quickly. But still time for another banana fruit shake to be enjoyed along the banks of an lanquid Mekong.

Today I leave Laos for Thailand. Its a simple procedure, take a bus to the Friendship Bridge, go through Laos immigration, over the bridge in a minibus, nice touch the Thai flags starting in the middle of the bridge, through Thai immigration and you have arrived. Ignoring all offers from tuk-tuk drivers I walk to Nong Khan train station where I buy a sleeper ticket to Bangkok. Rest of the day is spent in the train station and at a cafe located across the road. I have a tuna sandwich, it was a very good tuna sandwich, so good in fact I buy another to accompany me on the journey to Bangkok.

Clackety clack, a sleeper carriage from the border to Bangkok. Sleeper? Well it allows you to lie in a horizontal position, but sleep, too much noise from the rails. Had too be in bed early, by 8:00pm, 8:30, 9 , 10, 11 ....1:15 still no sleep then the train stops and it is 4:30am. Thought I had a dream that I was on a platform and the train was moving off. Though it is a dream I desperately want to wake to confirm. Sure enough it was a dream.

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Photos

Bus Lunch
Lunch served on the bus trip from Luang Prabang to Vientiane.

Country Side
Laotian Country from cafe where lunch was served.

Monks Eating
Monks eating a meal at Vat . THey only eat what they collect from the public.

Vat Sasaket
Built in the early 19th this Vat survived the 1828 Siamese sacking of Vientiane.

Vat Sasaket Cloistures
Vat Sasaket has been built with a cloisture which houses 100's of budda images.

Craftpeople
Much of Vientiane is being restored including parts of Vat Sasaket.

Mausoleums
Free standing or located as a part of a wall these stuctures contain ashes of the deceased.

Dusk
Another dusk, another fruit shake along a very lazy Mekong.

Rebulding
An example of one of the many new buildings in Vientiane.

Cafe
Cafe opposite Nong Khong railway station which served a very good tuna sandwich.