Vang Vieng, Lao Time talking Lao-dly on the Laod-a-bouts


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Asia » Laos » West » Vang Vieng
June 16th 2011
Published: July 9th 2011
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Vang Vieng

Sai’s Uncle took us for a drive to Vang Vieng, it took about 4 hours to get there. Unfortunately, we got stopped by the Police about one hour out of Vientiane and they found that Uncle had neglected to pay his road tax on the van for some months and he was given an on the spot fine (or was it a small bribe?). It did not take us long to be back on the road, so we guessed it was not such a big deal. Being an optimist I decided not to ask Sai if we would be covered by any insurance if Uncle had an accident, I let that thought slip by with the scenery.

We passed through many small villages on the route, as we got further from the capital the villages appeared to get poorer and poorer. All of the places we passed by were very neat and clean, but you could tell that they were surviving on very basic incomes.

Due to it being what was described as a "Buddha Day" we had to stop along the way at a roadside shrine to make some offerings. The offerings included a pack of cigarettes (obvioulsy some of the spirits don't mind a puff now and then). The reference to "Buddha Day" was that it was a full moon and so a day it was a day when you should offer prayers and visit temples or shrines and make an extra effort in your devotions.

One of the villages we passed through was a “smoked fish village”, the roadside markets and stalls were full of dried fish. Behind the line of buildings along the main road of the village was a beautiful river and we could see many small fishing boats on the waters. Sai said we would stop at this village on the way home because he wanted to buy fish for his family and friends as this area was very famous for it’s varieties of smoked fish.

Vang Vieng is listed a “must do” on the backpacker trail in South East Asia. Most of the foreigners looked to be happy and having a good time, though a minority looked rather strung out and grubbier than some of the poorest of villagers we had seen along the way. Unfortunately, aside from the lovely scenery and wonderful river at Vang Vieng
on the road to Vang Viengon the road to Vang Viengon the road to Vang Vieng

any Load-a-Bputs coming?
it is also infamous for the easy availability of party drugs. You can go tubing on the river, stopping at various bars drinking jugs of vodka, etc. as you try not to drown in the current. It is rumoured that the death toll form drowning or other accidents in the river to May this year is nine foreigners (google it if you are doubtful) – the mixture of drugs, alcohol, a fast flowing river and no safety standards or controls is a major disaster waiting to happen.

Unfortunately, many of the local businesses are built around these illicit activities and if the government did crack down many locals would be without work. A difficult situation for sure.

We skipped the drinking, drugs and tubing, instead we had a look at the river, climbed the many stairs to a lovely cave, made offerings at some of the shrines and enjoyed sunshine and fresh air.

Lao Time

We also contemplated the meaning of “Lao Time” during our stay we had discovered that the clock certainly ran differently here in Laos than it does back home. For example, a quick stop at a friends house for “five minutes” would turn into drinks, food and hours of talk and laughter. A two hour drive turned into a half day of driving, stopping for food, drinks, offerings at shrines and shopping. If our friends told us such and such would happen tomorrow we soon found it meant anything form a day to next week or maybe not at all. I think a year is far too long in advance ot even think about. I mean all of these observations in the nicest manner possible – it is just such a different attitude to life than we “falangs” are sued to.

Talking Loa-dly on the Load-a-Bout

On the drive back we also discussed how Lao people get very excited and as Sai explained, “begin talking Laodly …. Get it? Talking Lao loudly is Laodly. Ha Ha Ha”. He also asked had we noticed that the Lao people had invented a traffic management aid that is now used world wide – “You know, the Laod-a-bout, we don’t have round-a-bouts we have Laod-a-bouts, Lao people cannot pronounce the R in anything so it is a Load-a-Bout, do you get it Lobert? You must be careful on the load-a-bout. Ha Ha Ha”. Lao people sure love laughing and joking, they are wonderfully fun loving people.


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Around Vang ViengAround Vang Vieng
Around Vang Vieng

With Suzy and Sai's cousin
Around Vang ViengAround Vang Vieng
Around Vang Vieng

climbing the stairs to the cave, steep, hot & humid


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