Europe on the Mekong

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The quaint town of Luang Prabang ascends from the banks of the mighty Mekong revealing a unique combination of French and Lao architecture. Upon first arrival, you might think you have just floated down the Seine rather than the Mekong with grand French columns and dining Europeans gracing open terraces. As a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1995, Luang Prabang's uniqueness is guaranteed preservation with over 100 buildings and wats (temples) being restored and strict restrictions on new buildings.

Mark and I quickly learned of Luang Prabang's popularity as we were turned away from three booked guest houses. Sweating and tired from two days on the Mekong, we just wanted a shower and a bed. We finally found one tucked away down a quaint alley, but for three times as much as we paid in Thailand. The lack of resources and accommodation in Laos makes everything much more expensive.

It didn't take us long to discover the beauty of the town. We hired a boat to take us across the river to the small village wats where 15th and 16th century caves hold ancient headless buddhas. A few village kids took us down into the musty darkness and then demanded three dollars after we had already paid for a ticket (a common Laos business practice). The next day we jumped in van and headed to Kuangasi Falls, a tropical paradise and reprieve from the heat of the dry season. Meandering through a forest trail, we came upon a waterfall descending into a bright blue pool of water and rocks. A couple sitting on the picnic bench remarked, "This is only the beginning, there are waterfalls all the way up the trail." We climbed to a pool where a small crowd had gathered, waiting in line for a giant rope swing that lifted you high into the air and dropped you off over a deep blue pool of fresh water. Of course, we couldn't resist. One by one, our group of Germans, Dutch, Thai, Chinese and Canadians took turns dropping in to the cold, fresh water.

Besides the tropical paradise, the best thing to do in SE Asia is eat. Spicy coconut and vegetable soup, steamed fish with dill and lemongrass, fresh papaya salad with peanuts and carrots, steamed chicken with basil and galangal, fried bananas soaked in chocolate, fresh mango, pineapple and watermelon salad. The list goes on. Out of the few dozen countries Mark and I have been too, SE Asia is hands-down the most mouthwatering place we have visited. In between meals, we search out our next culinary delight. Meandering down alleyways and streets discovering quaint bistros and small silk and textile shops. The nightly market is also a feast for the belly and for the eyes with brightly-colored silk scarves, wooden bowls, antique Hmong textiles and sterling silver jewelry. And because Laos Kip is so devalued, they accept the Thai Baht and the US Dollar, making for a rather challenging money exchange.

If you rise early in the morning, you'll not only catch a glimpse of first light, but the hundreds of orange-robed monks collecting their morning alms. The barefoot monks emerge from the many wats that illuminate the town and circle the village collecting food, money and gifts as a donation. Our guidebook eloquently states, "The long line of monks create a swirl of orange, accentuated by the soft morning light. Within an hour, the monks complete their rounds and melt back into the monasteries, and the streets become quite ordinary again." Villagers lay out their woven mats and ball up thumbfulls of sticky rice to give as an offering. I bought a bowl of sticky rice and banana leaves, laid-out my make-shift mat and waited for the sun to rise.

Tonight we catch a flight to Hanoi. Tomorrow.....Good Morning Vietnam.

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