How wow Lao Lao - Luang Prabang and out along the Mekong

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November 12th 2006

Published: January 11th 2007

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bacon sandwich

Umbrellas

Luang Prabang market

At 9am we hit the road, one day late, but on a journey through stunning mountains of sheer cliffs enshrouded in thick green forest to the former capital of Lao, Luang Prabang. After sharing the bus with Ben and Melissa from our first days tubing we journied with them by tuk tuk to the old silvermining quarter and a picturesque little lane lined with pleasant guesthouses. Parting company for the moment, we checked into Tanoy Guest House and after lunch at another chain of Joma Bakery we walked along the main street amongst a handful of stalls which were setting up for the night market. Leaving that for another day we ate at the beautiful Indochine Spririt restaurant and hit the sack for some well earned rest. Which was rudely interrupted by a chorus of roosters at 4am followed by some unwelcome banging around by the owner so we resolved to move accomodation and found the splendid Villa Philaylack a few strides down the tree lined mews. Once checked in we met with Ben and Melissa as arranged and grabbed a tuk tuk to the Tad Sae waterfalls some 30 minutes away along a bumpy track, a further 10 along the

Local character

Namsong river on a longtail boat and a short walk through the forest the other side. The falls were a spectacular low and wide series of short cascades which although vertically unimpressive were like nothing we had ever seen before. Trees growing out of the falls with shallow pools sprinkled about creating a landscape it was almost impossible to beleive was not manufactured by some "Wet and Wild" designers. Although we only anticipated staying for a couple of hours we ended up spending the entire day at the falls, swimming in the cool water, diving from the ledges and gaining the most amazing massages in the smooth bowls of fizzing jacuzzi water. Having not paid him yet when we returned our tuk tuk driver was still waiting and duly drove the four of us back to Luang Prabang where we walked among the dreamy relaxing streets where locals even played badminton in the road. That evening we walked amongst the stalls of the nightmarket where Lao ladies sat on their mats and sold their beautiful wares of silk scarves, wooden carivings and paper lanterns all meticulously laid out.

After a mountainous pile of fresh fruit for breakfast we headed

Roza Sauce

An imitation of the real thing of course!

to the Luang Prabang Museum, a former Royal residency where an opulant golden throne sat in the most incredible hall with walls covered in colourful mirror mosaics. Also on show were the Kings elephant seat, both his and the queens bedrooms preserved in all their modest and tastefull glory, royal clothing encased in glass and a whole room dedicated to gifts given to the monarchy from governments around the world. Of note were jaw dropping ivory and porcelain from China and a curious "Blue Peter" style model of the Apollo Lunar lander from the USA. Outside in an adjoining annex the prized and reverred Prabang buddha statue which gave the city its name and was also stolen twice by the Siamese before being returned on both occasions for fear its theft dealt them bad luck. Contiuning our walking tour of the city we passed several ornate and tranquil temples before entering Xang Thong, the largest and most frequented of all where three separate buildings housed a vast array of golden architecture and the now familiar mirror mosaics depicting scenes of everyday life which sparkled to life the outside walls of two buildings.

After reaching the end of the city

Lao landscape

On the way north by minibus the mountains rose in splintered shards

peninsular and the point where the Namsong converges with the mighty Mekong we returned along the quiet riverbank road past the odd rice stall, a handful of small restaurants and two lads playing petanque, another remnant of the French occupation. That evening we again met up with Ben and Melissa for another fine meal at Indochine Spirit which we left in true Lao style at 9pm when they were mopping the floors as we were the last customers in there! At 5.30am I was alone in getting out of bed to watch the monks receive arms (gifts of food) from the locals outside one of the main temples. Strangely at that time of the morning in the murk before sunrise the city didn't feel any less quiet and I patiently waited in the cool air and on my knees gave parcels of rice to a long line of monks who appeared from a side street. Back and breakfast and joined by Ben and Melissa who would again be great company for the day, we got chatting to an amazing American couple Deano and Leslie who were fascinating to talk to not least because Deano was an author and motivational speaker

Life at Tad Sae Waterfalls

on "Happiness"! Working just 30 days a year and travelling the rest he was bursting with charisma and on the strength that they appeared extremely happy I'll offer you his number 1 tip which was to ditch the TV. (Maybe I've ruined a few after dinner speeches there, sorry Deano!)

So wowed were we by the Tad Sae waterfalls, Claire, Ben, Melissa and I shared another tuk tuk to Luang Prabang's other notable waterfall at Khoung Si. A long bumby and dusty ride through dense jungle peppered with small communities we arrived at the beautiful and this time towering cascade which streamed down from high in between forest clad cliffs. After drenching ourselves in its spray we began an arduous trek up a steep tree root trail to the very top of the falls and bemused ourselves whilst standing in a small puddle at just where all the water comes from. Back at its base and a little way downstream we found the most amazing swimming area where you could jump from overhanging trees and even swim behind a 5 foot cascade where the sound was deafening and you were able to let the water shower you with all

Wide falls at Tad Sae

its force. After some time in the natural power shower we walked back down to find an Asiatic Black Bear rescue centre set amongst the trees and also a similar and respectfully large enclosure for a huge Tiger which we hand fed through the bars.

Fulfilled after another spectacular day in Lao we exhaustedly returned the Luang Prabang and its peaceful streets to comtemplate our exit from this beautiful country the following morning. Having heard and read countless stories of danger and death about the use of the fast boat up the Mekong we decided that as time was not pressing we would opt for the more leisurely slow boat which would take us two days to get to the border with Thailand. After another visit to the market that evening to purchase a few keepsakes it was with more than a touch of sadness that we packed our bags to leave Lao. We had heard glowing reports about the country from friends and travellers but nothing could have prepared us for the way in which this country has touched us by its beauty, its ultra relaxed and friendly people and with the immense fun it has given us

Claire at Tad Sae

without a trace of difficulty.

The slowboat in the morning was as you'd expect a sedate and peaceful chug through dramatic scenery up one of the worlds most marvellous rivers. It would have been peaceful of course had the 8 English lads who had failed to make it to bed the night before and were still sinking beers and Lao whisky whilst doing their best impressions of Pop Idol first rounders hadn't joined us. With them and a laughably uncomfortable seat it was not long before the slow boat became a tedious and regrettable affair. Keeping close company with a spanish guy seated behind (who in the absence of a name we shall call Pedro) who was wearing a hilarious parrot red christmas jumper with a stonewash demin sleevless shirt over the top (!) we spent the 8 and a half hours politely nodding and trying to prize Claire's pot of Nivea creme from an old ladies hands whose wrinkles had soaked up half the tub. Cursing the slow boat we stepped off after a farcicle docking at the stopover town of Pakbeng and in the dark trudged up the hill at the head of pack in search of

Tumbling water

Tad Sae waterfalls

a room for the night. Placing faith in both the Lonely Planet and Rough Guide recommendations for Bounmie Guest House we arrived to an odd welcome of hysterical laughter at my plentiful eyebrow(s) and a bizarre session of me asking the price of the room and being completely ignored on 7 occasions. Following the guy upstairs to a gloomy room with broken windows and a PVC shelf for a bed it struck us when we were offered a bag before being offered the room that all the staff were off their faces on Opium.

Deciding that the bed and the giggling owners were tempting but unwanted we walked in bemusement to the nearby Sintousak Guest House where a better if bleach smelling room was offered at the same price. In the adjoining restaurant we ate at the same table as Phil and Kate a middle aged couple from Darwin and discussed how the chance of death on pointy rocks at the mercy of a speed boat was a more favourable prospect than another day on the slow boat. Having read so many reports on the internet where people have said "ooh really dangerous" "loads of accidents each year" "1

Claire, Melissa and Ben

Great companions in Luang Prabang

crash a week" we reasoned that out of all this information there was not one person who held a personal experience. As far as we could tell, these people were reading the lawsuit friendly guidebook advice and translating tales of doom in their own words on the net as fact, and we decided we were not going to buy it. At the tail end of the meal we also roped in Pedro for the 'express boat so all we needed to do in the morning was find one more person to fill the boat. When we returned to our bedroom the smell of bleach had been replaced by crap and other peoples urine and we slept under the sound of rats crawling across the flimsy roof. Then at 3am the water buffalo curry in my stomach informed me it wanted out and I had to negotiate the hole in the ground in pitch darkness. Which was nice.

In the morning resolute in our want to get the hell out of Pakbeng by fast boat we emerged to find Pedro had backed out of the excursion citing that

"Sapeed boat... bery dengerous...meny accidente...I speak a with French girl, bery dengerous...I go by salow boat"

. So the four of us, Claire, I, Phil and Kate cried

The peaceful streets of Luang Prabang

"bye losers" and haggled our prices with the cheeky Opium fiends and walked down to the dock to try and gain two more passengers. Thankfully, 2 American chaps made up the 6 required and we stood around as the boat was readied in such a sketchy manner we wondered if this had even been done before. After we had demanded helmets for the journey we stepped aboard the cramped chopstick of wood and our driver cranked up the 16valve V8 engine and sped us away past the packed slowboat full of would be bored commuters. Well despite spending the time with our kneecaps wedged between our nostrils and zipping our way across the water at some 45kph the ride felt rather safe and there were no points at which we feared for our lives. About 1 hour and 45 minutes in we stopped at a floating moor and changed drivers before roaring off again past grazing water buffallo (best place for them) and tiny bamboo settlements before arriving at Houy Xian some 3 and a half hours after setting off. All in all the journey was immensely enjoyable and the rumour mill about the fast boats being a express route

Not something you see everyday

Elder Monks playing with a Cannon!

to death proved thankfully to be misplaced.

All that remained of our journey was a short tuk tuk to passport control and a longtail over the Mekong and we were in Chiang Khong Thailand having spent the most incredible 11 days in Lao. Only at customs back in Heathrow can we really begin to formulate our fondest memories and favourite countries but we don't think for a minute that it would be premature to put Lao near the top right now. We would needless to say recommend to it everyone (save for perhaps Pakbeng) but we hope in a strange way that you choose not to go there in droves... We will be returning you see and we'd like it just the way it is!

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