Don Det: 4,000 islands of heaven

Our escape from Vientiane could not have been faster, as soon as the Cambodian embassy opened at 7.30 am on Monday morning we were waiting on the doorstep. While we were waiting for the visas we searched for the cheapest and quickest way out of this tedious backdrop of boredom and one visa and one short 12 hour bus ride later we arrived in Pakse, the last big town before the Cambodian border.

Whilst traveling Laos and inevitably talking to the hundreds of people you encounter along the way, you will eventually run into people who are traveling from North from the South. These are the people who will tell you of a place of near unspoilt and unrivaled beauty that is known as the 4,000 islands that litter the Mekong River. There is no need to explain that the name is pretty much self explanatory and although the majority of the islands are uninhabitable there are settlements on 3 of the biggest of these islands, these being Don Khong, Don Det or Don Khone. Our island of choice was Don Det as we herd that the travelers generally populating the others seem to be the older, midlife crisis types.

These islands can be found only a short 2 hour drive by local bus, mini bus or songthow from Pakse.

In the lonely planet we were shocked to read the opening lines for the description of these places - "no electricity, no running water, no problem". Fortunately though we soon realized the edition was from 2 years ago and later versions confirmed the above was now available. The scenery along the river is simply beautiful as all you can see from the short riverboat ferry to the island of Don Det is lush green semi-tropical vegetation and the odd bungalow build on stilts anchored firmly to the islands. The majority of young backpackers head here so the scene has a very new age feel about it too. The island itself has guest houses along the river side and is split up into sunset (west) or sunrise (east). Being the clever bunnies that we are it doesn't take long to realize morning sun=HOT so we opted for sunset since a lie in is essential. The whole place is run on individual generators, and for most places there is a strict electricity-in-the-evening-only-policy which means 6-11, and after that its candles and mosquitoes or bed.

Despite these shortcomings the stay is definitely the best and most relaxed I have experienced. You cant help but constantly make new friends just chilling out and once you get too hot you just head into the river for a swim. Above all the most satisfying factor was that the place is CHEAP!!!! In just 5 days, including accommodation with a hammock, electricity, double bed, 3 meals a day and an almost endless supply of water and beer I spent a mere 30 US dollars (yes my English chums, that is 15 pounds for 5 days!). By day it is too hot to do anything but socialize read and swim, if you so chose (and of course I did) you can indulge in the island's tradition of smoking the local herbs which makes the whole experience far more enjoyable. The bars offer to make anything "Happy" (or magic) for a mere 5,000 kip extra (something like 30 pence) and one even offered a Hangover breakfast with 500mg paracetamol and 10mg of VALIUM...

As most guest houses are on the islands, ours (which I think was named Vixay) was family run and around sunset the owner took us around the various islands and even as far as the Cambodian side of the river to show us one of the most spectacular views in my trip (pictures to follow! only Lao internet = slow + expensive). Just as the sun started to set on the horizon the sky turned from blue to yellow to orange, disappearing just over the river to leave a gentle glow of so many different colors.

Doing nothing really takes it out of you :) and an expression of pure satisfaction never left my face during my stay...

Unfortunately my Lao visa is close to expiration, and I must travel North again to get a Vietnamese visa and visit the towns I missed out when I was escaping from Vientiane. This means that because I am visiting Vietnam first I have to leave the 2 Germans who travel to cambodia and the amazingly hot and extreamly special Israeli girl ;) who will travel to meet a friend on the Thai islands.

On the road solo once again...a change of company has been somewhat overdue.

If you come to Laos be sure not to miss out on

Sunset on the Mekong

this destination, and also make sure you come during the COOL SEASON!!

Ciao, Tom

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