Day 38 - 40: Pakse/Si Phan Don (4000 Islands)


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Asia » Laos » South » Don Det
May 8th 2010
Published: May 8th 2010
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Surprisingly I didn't sleep too bad on the bus and at 6.30am we pulled into Pakse bus station. In true traveling fashion, we didn't have a clue if we were staying on this bus or changing buses for the journey down to Don Det. Everyone got off the bus so after a few minutes we wandered off and were told to sit in the waiting area for a new bus. We saw a few guys who we had been separated from the night before and sat down waiting until 7.30am to roll around. Suddenly from feeling fine, I came over all dizzy and had to run to the toilet as I felt really sick. I found my way back to Bon and sat back down feeling slightly better, only for that feeling to return again a few minutes later at 2,000Kip per toilet use, this was going to be expensive! A few minutes later I was going to be sick again and didn't even have time to pay the lady (I'm sure she understood), this time however I couldn't stand up without coming over all dizzy. Not nice feeling so ill where no one speaks the language. Stuck in the toilet we ended up missing the bus, there was no way I could travel like this, I managed to drag myself to the seats where Bon had found a Tuk Tuk and delivered us to quite a nice guesthouse. I fell asleep for most of the day, but I woke up and I didn't feel as bad - I was totally gutted as I had been so looking forward to going to the 4,000 Islands. Bon had to eat alone that night but after an early night I woke up not feeling 100% but well enough to make the journey South!

The bus journey wasn't too bad, and only took about 2.5 hours, we then boarded a boat to cross over to Don Det. Again this part of Laos is stunning, the emerald waters are scattered with tiny green islands, palm trees and other trees lined the bigger islands - stunning. The views alone were enough to make me forget I was feeling ill.

We docked on Don Det and decided we would like to stay on the sunset side, but with no map of where we were we walked and hoped! We looked at a few places, accommodation is really basic here, so when we came across some lovely riverside bungalows (Don Det Bungalws) with en suite we didnt worry about the 100,000 kip a night fee, I just wanted a bathroom of my own in case I was sick again!'The place was run by an ex pat who was quite funny, we sat and ordered a drink in the bar and watched the same people walk up and down looking for a cheaper decent place to say and listening to him moan about people not even looking at his place cos it wasn't mentioned in the "F*#king lonely planet" lol

We went for a wonder in the afternoon which was supposed to be a short walk, that turned into a mini trek, this place is bigger than we both thought, and probably didn't do me the world of good, but never mind it was a nice walk!

The following day and feeling much better we had booked ourselves on a kayak tour of the island where we would visit two waterfalls, take on some little rapids and have lunch spotting the river for the rare Irrawaddy River Dolphin. We left at 8.30am to meet our guide and once again, he was late but it was quite nice to know it was just me and Bon plus the guide. He turned up and gave us our hats and life jackets and took us to the kayaks. Thankfully I would be sitting at the front with the guide at the back doing a lot of the work and Bon would have to do everything himself on his own one haha!! We set out along the river, again I'm going to say how stunning it is. We passed the guides house and his two little babies gave us a wave and a cheer. It was only about 9.30am but it was already roasting. We must have paddled a good few km's before we pulled up on a bank to head for the first set of falls. Again what a sight! These falls aren't a typical one long drop, but many little drops. We stayed for a drink before heading off pushing our kayaks past the falls and boarding just further sown. From here we hit a few rapids, not very strong, but enough to push you about with not much control. We made it through ok....almost, Bon managed to fall somehow, he says we hit him but I think he's just rubbish, I remember the kayaking in Kent!

We paddled down the river taking in the scenery and our guide told us we had hit the Cambodian border, it really was strange to see Laos on our left and Cambodia on our right!! We paddled a little further to an island in the river where we would eat lunch, but first we had a little scout for dolphins. I didn't really hold out much hope these guys are so rare but then again the area is quite small. Nothing on the Cambodian side, so we moved round to the Laos side then out of the water jumped this little grey thing, Bon missed it, but I couldn't believe I managed to catch a glimpse! We waited but saw no more of it so we went to land for lunch and a well earned break from the sun. Suddenly I saw something in the distance and pointed and the guide said yes, there were more dolphins just swimming around on the far bank coming up for air at regular intervals. We finished lunch and quietly got in the Kayaks for a closer view. We must have watched them for about 20 - 30 minutes, they weren't doing anything interesting, just coming up for air, but it was mesmerizing. At the same time though it made me a little sad as its almost like watching the living dead as the numbers are so low - maybe only 10 individuals survive here now.

We moved on and continued kayaking for the afternoon. I was shattered, Bon was shattered and was glad when we hit land about 3pm. We had a little break and enjoyed our watermelon that we would have had with lunch if Bon hadn't lost the knife when he had capsized earlier! We then headed in a Tuk Tuk to South East Asia's largest waterfall. Again this waterfall is high but its soooo wide. The Mekong River is usually so calm but here the water meets and forms torrents of gushing water across the whole width of the river! After watching for a while we went to find our guide, only for him to call us over. He was having Beer Laos with the driver and an old man who was drinking Laos Laos (Rice whiskey I think, very strong) and we were invited to join the group. We didn't have a clue what the conversation was about but we sat for about an hour going through about 4 bottles of beer, the old man trying Bons sunglasses on and Bon in return trying the old mans hat! We thought that was it, a little jolly we set off ready to head back, but at the harbor we stopped again and were invited to another group for more beer sharing and some BBQ water buffalo. This was a really unique experience and you really felt like the locals were more than happy to invite you in (although I felt a little odd, as all the other women had seats away from the group!). After more beer Laos, we jumped into the kayaks and raced (literally) home. Bon lost, me and the guide (mostly the guide) won and fondly said our goodbyes after a fantastic day!

Tomorrow we leave Laos which saddens me as I have really enjoyed my time here, Laos is an amazing country, the people are lovely and the scenery is awesome - everyone should visit here at least once, fingers crossed Cambodia is as impressive!

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