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We set out from Pakse to visit the 4000 islands. A group of islands that appear as the Mekong fans out on Laos' southern border and into Cambodia.

We had heard many reports of how laid back and beautiful these river islands were and although there were no beaches to speak of we were looking forward to being lazy in a hammock for a few days in the sun.

The rain we had on the first day really took some beating. After getting soaked through to the skin on our boat to Don Det, trudging around in mud trying to find some nice bungalows on an island that was devoid of backpackers or decent accommodation; we weren't feeling great about the magical '4000 islands'.

We met some friends we had made on our slow boat trip from Huay Xai to Lunang Prabang and although it was nice to see them, it was difficult to have a conversation with them over the din the rain was making on the tin roof of the restaurant where we were.

As is by magic the sun appeared and the islands suddenly looked nicer. Dark (and fairly muddy) sand paths waved through endless backpacker places offering 'happy shakes' and 'happy panacakes' but the paths were lined with coconut palms and the mekong provided a nice setting.

We hiked across the island to Don Khone (a neighboring island) through lovely rice paddies and farms. The interior of the island certainly out-shone the clogged shoreline of the 'main town' and it's 'sunset strip' and 'sunrise strip'.

After a (for us) late night (1am!) we lazed about all day in our hammocks and Jen read me stories from the book we were reading. A perfect day that was topped off my a stunning sunset viewed from our hammocks on the banks of Asia's longest river.

Don Det certainly had that 'backpacker vibe' and all the crap that it brings along. Places like Ko Pangyang and Van Vieng are great for meeting other travellers but getting wasted and watching films all day isn't our idea of fun. We don't even do it at home.

The interior of the island was beautiful as was Do Khone, it's a shame that so many places on the 'backpacker party trail' now seem to subscribe to the same awful combination of dope, beer, loud music and re-runs of 'Friends' on the aging restaurent TV screens. God I sound like a boring old fart...........

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