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Published: August 17th 2011
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So if China was big brother, Laos was the quiet cousin. The cousin who leaves the family under a cloud of controversy after he refused to take over the family business in order to go and chill out in the jungle and drink Beer Lao and smoke joints. The cousin who shuns the fast tourist lane and is happy to just let the people come to him. Maybe a strange analogy but I think it fits. China felt big, brash and modern compared to the sleepy Laos, even the border showed the difference. On one side a massive gold
gateway adjacent to a building holding computers and xray machines and on the other a jungle shack, a bit of bribery and a mangy dog.
Our first drive in Laos was so different to China, lazy wooden villages with laughing children playing the river took over from the incessant beeping and neon lights of its bigger neighbour. Luang Nam Tha our home for four days was considered a bigger town even though it consisted of one main street, but we all fell in love with it straight away. Nestled in amongst paddy fields and jungle this sleepy little town was a
great way to get into the South East Asian groove, i.e relax, slow down, eat and drink too much.
(We are now all very good at that by the way.) I can't give you too much news on all our escapades here as, well, we didn't do too much! The most active thing we did in four days was a bike tour around the countryside and villages, it was 30kms in the heat and humidity but was such a great way to see the lovely scenery and meet the friendly locals, but yes our bums didn't recover for a good four days
after!
Leaving was a sad affair but it was time to actually get back on the road and we started the long journey Nong Khiaw. It was then we started to miss Chinese roads, oh how they were smooth and fast! It took us about nine hours to cover the 200kms of jungle road which wound its way through the jungle and mountains. Nong Khiaw isn't seen on the map, but it won us over as we drove into the sleepy
little village perched above the river and surrounded by mystical cliffs. We stayed in little huts
on the river side and it was the first time we had to rough it, complete with squat toilets and a resident massive spider - all part of the fun! We added to the fun by taking a long boat out of the village towards our next stop Luang Prabang.
It took us about 5 hours to pootle our way along the Mekong River and about every hour one of us would say, "Can you still believe that we are currently floating down the Mekong in Laos." Yep, we do still marvel every now and then at everything we have done on this trip and how lucky we are.
Luang Prabang waited for us at the end of the river and we instantly fell in love with it, even as we ran for our accomodation in a huge tropical down pour - our first of SE Asia. This very French influenced town is the third biggest in Laos behind the capital Vientiane and the southern city of Pahkse, however when we say third biggest, it was what we would almost call a town. But what it lacked in size it made up in character. It has a huge
tourist population but for good reason, with its location being flanked by two rivers, colonial buildings and shady roads, its huge stupas and wats full of orange clad monks and its delicious bakeries and cafes how could anyone now like this place?
We spent three days here and gorged ourselves on coffee and baked treats which were very much lacking in China. hours were spent looking around the shops and taking sneaky photos of monks as they went about their business. Luang Prabang like most of Laos had such a chilled our relaxing pull about it that you can't help but get swept up in the vibe.
In fact this chilled out nature of the country was something that struck us all, compared to all its popular and bustling neighbours Laos just seems to take it all in its stride. It is still a fiercely communist country and has most of its population in poverty but it still smiles. You would never think that once upon a time the Americans dropped thousands of bombs on this little place during the 'secret war' - maybe they just missed Vietnam by mistake?
Moving on from the political speak and
back to down right touristy, on our way from Luang Prabang to Vientiane we managed to convince the others to make a stop at Vang Vieng which is a sleepy little town with a big reputation. When you say Vang Vieng to most people who have travelled in this area there is a one word response - tubing. I had heard many fun stories of this place so couldn't wait to get there and sample a bit of the action. And we weren't disspointed - basically you go on a huge pub crawl but instead of walking you hire a tube and meander down the river where the bar will throw ropes at you to pull you into their establishments. Yep, health and safety eat your heart out. A group of 11 of us took to the water like rather ungainly ducks and proceeded to get plastered on free whiskey shots and vodka buckets as we tried to ungracefully haul ourselves in and out of the river. We had a fantastic time and have many an embarrasing photo to share. Vang Vieng, ticked the box, bought the shirt and dislocated a toe
in the process. Priceless.
Moving back to
the land of the cultured we hungoverly (not sure if that's a word, in fact I'm sure it's not but it's the most apt) made our way to the capital Vientiane. The city complete with its rues instead of streets, its pretend Arc de Triumph and Criossant de jours still had all the hallmarks of being a French colony but with the same old slow Lao charm. Apart from most great patisseries and being just across the river from Thailand really doesn't have too much to make it a huge tourist attraction but even so we enjoyed spending our last five days in Laos walking amongst its rues...streets.
Laos has been fabulous, although we are worried that we have been spoilt by its friendly and slow paced way of life that we may struggle with the hustle and bustle of Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand. Maybe we should've ended here?! It has been a place we will definately come back to, tout suite!
Next is Vietnam and I promise not to make any 'Goodmorning VIetnam' references, well maybe just one or two.
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Mumbo
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Never without the beer!
Love the photos. But your contemplation with beer has to be the best!!! Closely followed by Susan lounging - was that post beer? xxx