Blogs from Yssyk Kol, Kyrgyzstan, Asia


Goat polo and falcon hunting

Published: September 26th 2010Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Yssyk Kol
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September 19th 2010

Today we had the pleasure of watching a falcon hunting demonstration and a game of Kok-boru or Ulak Tartysh (goat polo) which is a national sport of Kyrgyzstan. The falcon hunting was interesting, but it was more or less feeding a bunny to a falcon rather than actual hunting. Tough for the bunny, but I guess it's really no different than feeding animals in a zoo. The goat polo was really a sight to be seen. Basically, they kill a goat, remove the head and hooves, then use the goat's carcass for the game. The teams battle for posession of the goat carcass like rugby on horseback. The object of the game is to toss the goat onto the opposing team's goal (a ring of tires). It sounds brutal, and it is. But, the goat is ... read more




KADJI-SAY AND THE EAGLE HUNTER

Published: September 1st 2010Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Yssyk Kol
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July 19th 2010

The Finn dude took out the instructions from the TIC on how to find the GH to which we will meet the eagle hunter. No one seems to know where he lives though he is the one and only eagle hunter in the village. The kind dude in one of the stores at the bus stand called him for us and he picked us up in 5 minutes. A burly middle aged man he seems very nice, he drove us to his GH and we were met by his wife, he barely spoke English so he called his neighbor, a University student in Bishkek, his name was Agilet, nice young man, he served as our interpreter for the duration of the show. Ishenbek was the name of the eagle hunter, he learned it from his elders, ... read more




Day 12, Back in Bishkek

Published: September 14th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Yssyk Kol » Cholpan-Ata
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September 14th 2009

Day 12, July 6, 2009, Monday, Duishombu: We are back in Bishkek. I awoke this morning the first time at 5 am, but knew that trying to stay awake would be impossible, so I went back to the bed and slept again until about 8:30 am. Bishkek is warm and sultry this morning, but there is something nice about being back to the familiar. A good shower, consistent hot water, food on demand, and even when you don't want it. Coffee for me and permission to make it myself. We did finally made it to beach sometime after noon yesterday. I swam in the cold water, we ate watermelon (arpus) on the beach, played with the youngsters, Alea, Adelia, and Eldar. Timka and I rented one of the ponton pedal boats and he pedaled us out ... read more




Day 10, What Day Is It?

Published: September 13th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Yssyk Kol
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September 13th 2009

Day 10, July 4, 2009, Saturday, Ishembi: If it were not for this travel diary and my Mac, I would not really know what day it is. I am not even sure how many days I have been in Kyrgyzstan at this point, except that it appears to be day ten according to the diary. One loses all track of time except for sunrise and sunset in places like Lake Issy-Kul. And that, of course, is the point. Gulnara, Emil's mother, Timurlan's aunt, and my friend, arrived sometime late last night and is sleeping in one of the rooms. Timka waited up for her until after midnight. I fell out about eleven. I awoke at around 5 am thanks to the it (dog) couplet (chorus). Something starts them off almost every morning at about the same ... read more




Day 11, A Much Better Day

Published: September 13th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Yssyk Kol
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September 13th 2009

Day 11, July 5, 2009, Sunday, Jekshembi: Well, yesterday's poor weather resulted in some new information and a fun day after all. I am always reminded of the quotation in Pooh's Birthday Book for July 2nd birthdays which is “Suddenly, Piglet realized that it was a much better day than he had thought it was.” My friend Joe Weaver had one and he maintained it religiously, always sending some homemade art project to you for your birthday. At any rate it was that kind of day. The weather was cold and windy and the beach was out of the question. So, we loaded up in two cars with Gulnara and her friends and headed for Cholpon-Ata. There we went to a park that I had seen from the lake the day before. Several small structures appeared ... read more






5th Day, At Lake Issy-kul

Published: September 12th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Yssyk Kol
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September 12th 2009

Day 5, Monday, Duishombu, June 29, 2009: What an excellent day yesterday turned out to be. I finally made enough noise to get Timka out of bed and thinking about going to the beach around 10 a.m. No one seems to be ready to head to the beach in this country until nearly noon or later. I see very few people heading down to the water on the roadway that leads to the beach before 10 am and it seems yesterday that most went to the area that serves the motel around 1 p.m. The beach was not very crowded on Sunday. There were a few families, and a few individuals in groups of two. The beach we went to has no attractions, no pier, no one renting chairs or umbrellas. There appear to have been ... read more




6th Day-At Cholpan-Ata, Lake Issy-Kul

Published: September 12th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Yssyk Kol
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September 12th 2009

Day 6, June 30, 2009, Tuesday, Sheishembi: Did I mention the rain? Yesterday was a washout, no trip to the beach. The clouds darkened and gathered over the mountain tops and then brought the rain and cold down with them. It was snowing at the higher elevations and there is new snow on the mountain tops that we can see from our motel and our vantage points. I have tried to look-up just how high these mountains and the lake are, but I don't have that information stored in my computer. I put the pdf version of one guide and some language lessons on my computer before leaving the US, but I see that I should have brought one of the more comprehensive guides with me for this kind of information. Of course, if I had ... read more




7th Day, Still at the Lake

Published: September 12th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Yssyk Kol
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September 12th 2009

Day 7, July 1, 2009, Wednesday, Sharshembi: Today is the last day that I can tell people I am Altimish-Alti, since tomorrow is my birthday and I will have to begin saying that I am Altimish-Jeti. Sixty-seven, and I am celebrating my birthday for a second time in Kyrgyzstan and this time I am at the 2nd largest alpine lake in the world, and probably the 4th or 5th highest in altitude. I think we are at about 5-thousand feet or so. What an experience for me. Timka and I made it to the beach yesterday around 11 am after a quick breakfast of blini and cream after he got up around 10 am. All of Emil's family begins the day around 9 to 10 am during the summer and it is consistent down to the ... read more




Day 8, More days at the lake

Published: September 12th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Yssyk Kol
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September 12th 2009

Day 8, July 2, 2009, Thursday, Beishembi Surprise, surprise, we are still in Cholpan-Ata at the Cafe Chebek and the motel with the empty swimming pool. Our plans to return to Bishkek were changed around noon. Emil called from America to tell me that we were not going back to the city until Friday. When we had first worked on a bit of a schedule for me during this month without him we had discussed staying at the lake for about a week. Apparently when he found out that his mother had only scheduled 4 days, he changed everybody's plans. Timurlan and I were not sure how we felt about it yesterday. After all, we were all packed and ready to go back. But we decided to make the most of it and took yesterday as ... read more




Day 9, Trouble in Paradise

Published: September 12th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Yssyk Kol
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September 12th 2009

Day 9, July 3, 2009, Friday, Juma: Yesterday's excursion was less than fully successful. And the problem was the 15 year old being a teenager all morning. First he did not want to go to town, even though I tried to explain that there were things I wanted to do there. I needed to use the internet and I know that after 8 days of not having access that I would have an hour's worth of work on the net, along with some emails that would require a response or at the very least would need to be read. But Timka was no help in finding the internet cafe. He finally got moving around 11 and we flagged down a cab and were overcharged again for the trip of about 2 kilometers into Cholpan-Ata. It should ... read more









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