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Published: September 1st 2010
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Zina's GH
eagle and handler The Finn dude took out the instructions from the TIC on how to find the GH to which we will meet the eagle hunter. No one seems to know where he lives though he is the one and only eagle hunter in the village. The kind dude in one of the stores at the bus stand called him for us and he picked us up in 5 minutes. A burly middle aged man he seems very nice, he drove us to his GH and we were met by his wife, he barely spoke English so he called his neighbor, a University student in Bishkek, his name was Agilet, nice young man, he served as our interpreter for the duration of the show. Ishenbek was the name of the eagle hunter, he learned it from his elders, passed on from generation to generation but now it is mostly for show though he still hunts in the wild occasionally. He brought out the huge female eagle it is enormous, what a gorgeous bird, we held it and it was very heavy, a bit scary too as you don't want her to nip you with her sharp beak. Her eyes were covered and we
eagle hunting demo
me holding the eagle after it devoured the rabbit were told not to speak while handling it. They pulled out a black skinny bunny rabbit, this will be the bait for the demo.
We got out on the dry brown hill behind his house, he set the eagle up, while Agilet let go of the rabbit down below, Ishenbek took the eagle up the hill and let go of her, it made a quick swoop down hill and got the rabbit in no time and started pulling it apart alive! It is disturbing but that is nature, we watched and filmed it, Ishenbek occasionally helps the eagle to get the best meat out. After the feeding we were able to handle the eagle again. Then back at the GH, we passed the orchard owned by the family and lots of fruits here, red and yellow cherries, the yellow ones were particularly delicious, I gorged on them picking them at will, varieties of sweet apricots, pears, apples, wild raspberries, ah I could live here and pick fruits everyday! I asked if I can pick some cherries to take home and will pay them , the wife took out a couple of plastic bags for me, but then
they would not let me pay for it afterwards, have I known I would have gotten more! The whole experience starts at their Zina GH demo per group costs $45 and if you want to hunt with him and the eagle in the wild, $100.
After a brief snack we were hauled back to the bus stop,found a minivan for Bishkek we paid 250 soms each, we left not full but picked up passengers along the way, it rained in some parts, we stopped in Balykchy the fish mongers approached us, selling smoked fish, I was tempted to buy them but it would smell. We made a half hour stop at an eatery, lots of vans and taxis here as well stopping, as it is Sunday everyone did some excursion from the city. An hour and a half from the city we got engine problem. Instead of telling us what's wrong the driver hailed a car and got on, and left us in the dust in his minivan! The locals does not seem to be perturbed but we though he never would come back so we count our loses, annoyed we took our bags out and started
Zina's GH
winter pears to hail anything that passes by, unsuccesful, eventually the driver returned and made us put back our packs in the trunk, he started up the van again and went as if nothing ever happened, we don't exactly know what was the problem but he avoids coming to a full stop if he can, must be electrical. We reached the long distance bus stand, arranged for a taxi to Nomad's hostel for 200 soms. We arrived in the hostel, the Finns wanted a double room but our Swiss brother and sister friend have the room so they decided to find another place, we bid them goodbye and looked for dinner. Coming back we chatted with friendly Belgian bikers in our dorm, I shared with them the fruits I picked earlier. The Swiss duo arrived and we chatted for a bit before turning in at midnight.
The next morning me and Russ went to town, dropped off postcards from the Swiss at the post office, they left early for Almaty, we parted ways after that, I took a cab to the US embassy, I needed to add more pages in my already thick passport. Security is tight, i have
to go through at least 3 checks before I saw a consul officer. I was told starting 13th July add on pages are no longer free! $82 for the additions! I was appalled and let them know of my discontent, one consular agreed with me but of course they can never waive it. I have no choice, i need the pages so I paid up, apparently too you are only allowed 2 additions, this is my 3rd, the consul looked at my passport, and since it is still in good condition agreed to add for the last time. it took ages, 30 minutes perhaps, I was alone in the room, no interviews or whatever,when I got it, the pages are different, they have images/drawings of sceneries, cowboys and stuff, I thought right away it will obscure most stamps I will get entering or exiting countries, most of the drawings are dark, hmmm.
Met up with Russ at an internet cafe between Soviet and Chu prospect streets, the taxi driver waited for me so I gave him a small tip. After a swarma lunch we parted ways, Russ went back to pack his things, he leaves today for
Zina's GH
wild raspberry Uzbekistan, I walked to the Kyrgyz concept travel agency and inquired about flights, Iskender the nice fellow in the office told me the cheapest and best way to fly into Tajikistan will be from Bishkek to Isfana then from there I can take a taxi to the border and connect to Khojand, $70 was the quote, I took it, I decided to fly past Osh as the situation is still volatile and things can change rapidly.The good thing about it is it is refundable, bad thing, I never heard of the airline nor have a clue of it's record. Walked my way back to the hostel passed by my favorite take out draft beer kiosk and got a liter of Arpa beer, met up and said goodbye to Russ and then did my laundry.
P.S. if interested in the eagle hunting demo, contact: Ishenbek Kydyrov, +996(3941)92137 or better yet book it from the TIC office in Karakol, same price.
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