Blogs from Song Kol, Kyrgyzstan, Asia

July 25 - I did not sleep great last night, but perhaps not so bad, considering it was back to the dorms. My earplugs aren't working well, but they do help a bit. I woke up at 5am and got out of bed at 5:45am. I finished repacking and made some noodles for breakfast. I also started to upload a few pictures as well. Anna got up and left before me, so we said good bye again. She was heading back to Tajikistan and wasn't sure how far she'd get today, so she wanted an early start. At 7am I headed out and found the marshrutka (bus) that went to the airport. It was easy and only took about fifteen minutes. At the airport, I had to go through security twice, but I could keep my ... read more

So Monday, was a goodnight with UK bike group in CBT in Nayrn. Met up with Steve from 'Motorexplorers', who sets up trips to China, with people who apply. John & Colene (two up on GS, from USA), Jason, Chris (kiwi), Herve (French). Brian, Kurt (Norwegian), a good team who all met basically enroute through Europe. We left Nayrn full of fuel & food, to travel south towards China, to stay at another Yurt at Tash Rabat 'Caravaneserai' - an old Silk road boarding house dating from 10th century. The road to China is quiet, and this site was 15km to east on gravel track, so quite a remote spot. The stone structure was well kept, something the Kyrgyz's are prowd of. My 2nd Stay in Yurt was cold, as I was recovering from short but ... read more

Kyrgyz's are very proud, they celebrate independence with speeches and perade of government staff! Costumes have vibrant colours, a happy day for all. Horse racing event followed, but in some remote field 25km away, hard to find. Headless goat wrestling and chase girl on horseback, very fast furious. Supper with Peter and Katharina, two diplomats away from Bishkek for weekend. Wise words like:- In spring the roadside Mellon's come from Afghanistan, which are sold by weight, so to increase profit the're injected with river water, but same rivers are infected with Typhoid!. The vodka sells in Bishkek at €2/ltr, they use if for screen wash in cars, I think Russian pilots do opposite and drink aircraft screen wash fluids. As diplomats they often involved with unlucky travelers, to resolve mess, like a Swiss couple who purchased ... read more

Drive up to Nayrn at 2000m was just another 150km south. But staying at high altitude does make doing anything just bit breathless. First night is a CBT (community based tourism project), where local families provide a room or flat, mine was single room in flat with 3 bedrooms, on bottom floor of apartment block, but with little secure parking. To cut story short, some 5 youths disturbed bike at 11pm so moved to secure hotel parking 1km away. CBT price at 700som or £7 is cheap. Next night in posh hotel £8, big double room & nice breakfast. Jolly to Tourgart border, at 180km bit further than I thought, hope for spectaclar views of big mountains, some 60km roadworks = bumpy roads, otherwise perfect highway. China border is lonely spot, dozen big lorries, did meet ... read more

Torugut Pass was the initial destination today - the pass marking the border between China and Kyrgyzstan. Today was also the start of our 'organised' tour with the Snow Leopard travel company with whom we have contracted driver and guide services from Kashgar, thru Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and the Wakaan corridor in Afghanistan. Started well with our new transport picking us up from our Kashgar hotel and we were soon off down the highway towards the border. Great road for once, and we soon were at the first of five checkpoints - the Chinese customs and immigration checkpoint. This only opens up at 1100 so we had a wee delay but finally we were though with no hassles. There was another 75 kms of dreadful roads, one police check, one passport check thru spectacular mountain valleys climbing ... read more