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Published: August 18th 2012
Birthday Party!
It may look pretty weak, but hot noodles, tuna fish sandwiches, vodka, and good company can make for a good birthdayWell I arrived back in civilization again this afternoon with some new friends along. I begin at the beginning.
I left Karakol town on Tuesday morning and headed up to the Jeti Oguz Sanitorium; the location of the first meeting between Boris Yeltzin and the first president of Kyrgyzstan. It has not been renovated since the meeting. Anyway, I was just in the area for lunch and it is a good launching point for a four day trek through the mountains. I found a good spot for lunch and ordered some noodles and one cold beer. There were no empty tables so I sat down with these two old kooks knocking back shots of vodka at 12 noon. When in Rome. Our conversation was without words and only gestures. I turned down offers to rent a horse from them but I did have a shot of their finest firewater. I also met a Russian comedian in the restaurant. I got a signed picture of him actually. He could be famous I guess. HE seemed to think he was a big deal. He spoke some English and, indeed, turned out to be quite funny.
So, off on the hike! I
The Food
What does one eat for four days on the trail? had to hike down a dirt road for about 5km before reaching the trailhead proper. This is a rarely used road, but I did manage to find more vodka pounding Kyrgyz. Again, this was Tuesday around lunchtime. They invited me over and gave me some vegetables and insisted I take the bottle of vodka with me. I declined and had them try to pick up my pack. Heavy enough they agreed! So, off I went sans vodka. It was a nice afternoon hike. I walked alone and eventually met a group of Russian backpackers in this absolutely stunning valley with snowcapped peaks all around. It turns out that I'd missed my turn by about 2-3km. Doh! I turned back and got back on the correct trail. At least I'd seen some fantastic scenery. I wandered and did three river crossings (barefoot and ice cold!) to reach my intended camp. If that wasn't enough, the last yurt I passed had some dogs. I walked past one of the dogs whome didn't give me a second look. I kept walkinga bout 250 yards past the yurt and I heard a ruckus and the other two dogs were running at me. This happens
Gentlemen's Club
And one for the road! in life so I kept a walkin'. Then they attacked! Unbelievable! I reveived a good bite on the ankle and in return I gave them a good beating with my hiking poles. Still, ouch! No rabies and no serious damage. I kept a walkin'. I camped out with some unfriendly Russians for the night next to a river. "Unfriendly" and "Russian" seem to go hand in hand. Not so much unfriendly as just, well, cold. Also could be synonymous with Russia, yeah?
The following day I started out alone and hiked into yet another stunning valley with waterfalls and high peaks. This would be the base for my first mountain pass of 3800 meters (~12,500 feet). It was a difficult one over some REALLY inhospitable terrain. At about 3000 meters it looks like a martian landscape. The rocks are all red and jagged. Dust clouds fly up with every step. Again, I will upload pictures when I get back to China. The pass was difficult and I was very proud to get to the other side and find a place to camp. Ah yes! This was my birthday! How many people did I meet? 3. Russians. These were very
Wrong Turn
My reward for walking too far friendly Russians though and true mountain experts. I only met the two fathers and one 7 year old son. They had just finished a three day 35km hike. I think about 30 of those kilometers were on glaciers (according to the map we were looking at). They had crampons, ropes, ice axes, and some really serious shoes. The child had all the gear as well. A little different style family vacation than watching sheep by the roadside in a rented Mercedes Benz in Germany. Not better! Different. So, this was my birthday and I so wish I camped out with the Russian families instead of continuing on. I ended up camping alone. Too bad! I did sleep in a tent, had a nice fire, and saw the Milky Way. Not a bad way to spend a birthday but pretty lonely. Not to worry!
Yesterday I started out ALONE again and passed several cold, Russian, tour groups. I only met Russians up until yesterday evening. I past a small mountain lake where I met yet another Russian group. One said, "do you want to go swimming?" "No thanks." "WHY?" "What? Because... I'm hiking." Somehow a suitable answer. Those crazy Russians
Picnic
A glacier Lake is a good place to stop for lunch love cold water by the way. Always swimming in glacier lakes and streams. On I go and up I go. I reached my second 3800meter pass by about 3pm that day and met MOOOORE Russians. These two guys were pretty great though. They were lounging around at the top of the pass and rolling a joint. "You want some hashish?" I glanced down the opposite side of the pass. It was about 5-700 meters of 60 degrees DOWN. "Hrm... I think I'll have to pass on the hashish." We did have a good conversation though and they were fun to talk to. Soberly, I strapped on my pack and jumped down the side of the mountain pass. I made it to the bottom in about 3 minutes flat. I have a video to prove it. Its just like skiing. At the bottom I met a Polish couple. My first non-Russians in nearly 3 days! They were super friendly and we decided to celebrate my birthday a day late. Hot instant noodles, tuna fish sandwiches, polish sausages (holla!), hot tea, and various candy bars. A very backpacker feast, but delicious! The Russians had given me vodka as a birthday present earlier
A Second Pass
View from 3800 meters on the second high pass in the day so we drank some of that as well. For a present, they gave me a t-shirt from Poland. Perfect present. I am a fan of t-shirts.
I had better finish up because I think the internet cafe closes now. Today was pretty uneventful. I hiked back with the Polish and we have plans to meet up tomorrow for the animal market. I hiked too long for the bird festival unfortunately and it is 150km away...... Animal market, Russian Orthodox Choir, and petroglyphs will have to suffice. I should be back in Bishkek this time tomorrow!
Thank you for the comments! Love Michael
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Ma
non-member comment
birthday
The day-late celebration sounded like a good memory to have of your birthday--not so much for being alone the day before. Not a fan of dog bites--especially by dogs unfamiliar with basic immunizations. I hope you poured vodka on the wound. Glad to have you back in civilization. Love, Ma