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Published: August 23rd 2007
Schwaba
Rock route in ala-archaOur next adventure was about 35 km from Bishkek... climbing in Ala Archa. Because our previous unsupported trek was six days, we ate most of the food we brought with us. So this time... we took up the kitchen sink, hiring a porter to help carry up our things.
We planned to stay for seven days and climb both rock and alpine routes , so there was a lot of food and gear. Toby and Scott, new friends we met through the Alpine Fund (non-profit organization that takes kids climbing) came with us - so it was a little bit of a party.
The hike in was about 5 hours of up, up, up. Packs were heavy, but eventually, all of our stuff arrived at the Ratsek Hut, where there's a little tent city, friendly Russians, and a spot for our home for the next week. Toby brought a megamid (separate tent-like structure) so that we'd have a social/food area, which was totally worth it's weight - no cooking in the vestibule this week!
On the hike up, we got a little spread out, and (surprise, surprise) Philippe made it to the tent village before the rest of
Rockfall
Some of the biggest rockfall Ive ever seen us. I was second to arrive, but couldn't quite locate Philippe. While I was looking around, it began to snow and some Russians invited me into the hut for hot chocolate and sweet rice (yum!). Philippe finally came to look for me and found me warm, being fed, and chatting with these Russians (in that non-language of people who don't speak each other's language... I'm becoming an expert at it) about the route they plan to climb.
The first full day, Philippe and I get a lazy start... grab the rock gear and head to Schwaba - which is supposed to be the best rock route around the area. Although we got a few pitches up, the weather started to move in... after the prior day's storm, we weren't too excited to make our way down in cold, wet conditions... so we rappelled the route, had lunch, and watched the clouds move around without opening up too bad (what would become a daily routine).
After a day to scout around and check out routes further up the glacier... and we decided to bag Peak Corona (pretty simple climbing, but 15,200 feet or so... and stomping around in crampons
Scouting routes on Free Korea Peak
Though it was late in the season we managed a good view of the Korona Basin from this perch in the middle of the glacier that I haven't worn for six months).
A word about glaciers... I'd never seen a glacier before, much less walked or climbed on one. These things are impressive - it's difficult to put into words what they're all about. They are permanent... but not really permanent at all... always in motion, but moving slowly so that you'd need time lapse to see it. Imagine the wildest storm at sea (Perfect Storm-like)... huge waves, deep troughs... dark and stormy water because of everything that's being stirred up and knocked around.... got it? Now take a picture of that... a moment of this wild storm, frozen (literally) in time... that's a glacier. Now go walk around on it.
Corona was a long day, as we decided to forego the bivy at "Hotel Corona" (an abandoned trailer... lots of abandoned stuff around these parts) and go basecamp to basecamp in one day. Beautiful stars - some shooting - as we set off... then the first light hitting the peaks all around us and the glacier below us. We actually summited before 9am, which is good for alpine stuff (as the day gets on the snow softens up and it can be
Rachel on the summit of Korona
We managed one major summit, Korona peak at 4860m about 50 degrees max but still a pleasant and windy climb more difficult and dangerous to move around). We got back to the 'hotel,' ate a lesiurely lunch, and hiked the rest of the way back to camp before 2pm. Less than 12 hours roundtrip for my highest summit ever!
Beyond that, we scouted a bunch, ate a lot, chatted with our friends, drank lots of chai. In a lot of ways, it was just like home!
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