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Published: August 18th 2005
Sushi breakfast
Me and Taro and Jonathon(?) enjoying the early morning feastLeaving the airport was more of a challenge than I had expected. I covered the basics with my visit to Starbucks (to get some change for the phone really!) and booking my accomodation and transport but English was far less common than I expected in such a big city. But I suppose that's just an ignorant westerners' viewpoint. Must practise some more Japanese!!! The train journey into town was an eye opener as we passed houses with ornate tiled rooftops surrounded by rice fields. Perhaps I really will see everything that is the stereotypical view of Japan in the 2 weeks that I have planned here!!
When I stepped foot off of the metro, I was blown away by the evening heat. Perhaps I noticed it more as I was walking in circles with my pack on my back trying to find my accomodation. Luckily Tokyo has a vending machine with cold drinks on every corner. In fact they have one for every 20 people in Tokyo. As there are 12 million people in the city, I'll let you do the math-basically there are a hell of a lot of vending machines!! Anyways, I had managed to book the
The breakfast itself!
There is a huge pile of rice underneath all the tuna...and I did actually manage to eat it all!!! cheapest clean room available in the north of the city, an old factory flophouse. Folding out my mattress over the tatami matted floor, I spread out my maps and tourbook and began planning the upcoming sights. The room was of a size that I became rather lost in the sea of pamphlets that I had collected from the tourist info center.
It's usually a dream to wake up surrounded in a bed of money, for me I seem to live the dream of waking up in a bed of maps. Regardless of what I planned to do, all I managed on the first day was a trip to the post office and Ueno park. Having confirmed my map reading skills in Hong Kong were not as hot as I thought they were, I could only laugh at myself with the fact that it took me 3 attempts to get to the post office that was in fact only 4 blocks away from my accomodation. Ueno Park was a pleasant surprise. I met a Canadian lad named James and we strolled through the museum of modern art and through the many paths within the park. When James pointed out
Sushi chef
Just waiting for the crowds the snake creeping behind a Budda statue I nearly ran back to the airport, but regained my composure enough to continue.
One aspect of Japan that I had not expected to see was the number of homeless people. They had set up very clean and organized tarped accomodation within Ueno Park and proceeded with their day just like the rest of us. Some of them left for work every morning, some directed the tourists. Whatever and where ever they were spending their time, they did not seem to be an eye sore or hinderence to the rest of the citizens of Tokyo. Apparently when a lot of the factories were shut down within the last 10 years, the numbers of homeless skyrocketed. It made me reflect differently about the accomodation that I was in.
After a walk through the park, James and I managed to find a recomended restaurant where I had the chance to try some eel. I don't mind sushi, but this wasn't a new favourite for me! James has been living in Korea for a few months, and when I first saw his hand gesture in the picture I wasn't so sure about
James. Through more exploration of Asia I have since discovered that putting the symbol of peace into photos is quite the norm-so you're off the hook now James! I think I still prefer rabbit ears behind peoples heads' though. As I walked back to the subway that evening, I poked my head into one of the karaoke 'bars'. It had a bright white reception area with doors leading to the microphones behind. I asked a couple that was going in if they might want to hear me sing with them and their blank looks gave me my response. I still haven't perfected enough Japanese to sing songs, so I stepped out of the building with my head down. I figured I'd be seen as the biggest western quacko if I had decided to sing by myself.
When I jumped on the metro the next morning, I headed for the Ginza area. Looking in shopwindows that would have stretched my wallet beyond its limits became a bit depressing, so I spent the rest of the day planning how to leave Tokyo and see more of Japan for my second week. It took an hour of pointing at maps and
Pre-Sushi
It's definitly a two person jobto get the right cut! the few coins I was prepared to part with before I had my ticket to Kyoto for the end of the week. As it was such an exhausting excercise, I picked myself up coffeecat style at Starbucks and studied the camera guide. It was a disheartening day of getting lost and not communicating well and not affording anything, so best to stay low key. I then experienced a moment of confusion within the coffee environment that I know so well. But it was the western toilet trauma. I've heard of the control panel crisis from otheres, but all that was concerning me when I first saw it-was how do I shut that flushing sound up? It wasn't making me want to go any faster, just embaressing me. I discovered that waving your hand in front of the microphone does stop the recording, although it does also send a command that you're done and the bowl can be flushed and cleaned. Ooops, second time around I got it smooth sailing.
My next adventure in Tokyo was an extremely early start. I managed to drag myself onto the Subway for the first train in order to make it down to
the fish market auctions. I followed a path through many polystyrene crates of squid and sea urchins and jumped back from the mini forklift trucks that sped by. Nobody seemed bothered that I was there so I found my way to the back of this huge warehouse area to witness the live auction of tuna. When I say tuna it might be a better description to say tuna torpedos as the size of these frozen monsters would make most people run. A man stood on a bucket yelling out prices and gesticulating wildly as buyers examined the sushi potential. It was a crazy start to the morning and the same events are here 6 days per week. 2300 tons of fish are delivered to this market EVERY DAY, coming from all corners of the earths' oceans. Wow, just took a few photos! Then of course I had to enjoy the freshest sushi breakfast! I was relieved to meet Taro at one of the on site restaurants so he could order me something I understood. The pictures helped but I was learning of the delicacies of sushi consumption so it was important to order something that I would still be able
Big head!
And I don't mean the man! to stomach at the early hour that it still was! I ended up comparing fatty tuna and meaty tuna and I must say, they both melted in my mouth!
As the day started off so early, I had a great chance to start exploring the rest of Tokyo. I made my way over to the Shinjuku area to be overwhelmed by people people and more people. I found the Metropolitan Goverment Offices and accepted a tour from a volunteer. These 2 towers look a bit like Gotham City in Batman with their cubic granite walls. The views from the 40th floor are what I had come to see. It was easy to pick out the parks within the sprawl of city beneath me, and I had found my next destination.
Yoyogi Park was a perfect spot for me to finally rest my feet. Traipsing around the city can certainly be exhausting! After a bit of a snooze in the sun I made my way down to the Meiji Shrine where I just happened to walk in front of a wedding ceremony. Their outfits were stunning and the formalities of parading around the grounds of the Shrine
thrilled many of us tourists with cameras. As I then walked around myself, I was able to take in some of the Buddist traditions and designs. The ornate and delicate touch within the temples is truely amazing. Chiseled corners displaying dragons, fresh water cascading out of bamboo fountains and lanterns balancing each side of the doorways. It was a great tranquility to absorb after the hectic touring day sofar.
When I exited the park I had walked into the Harajuku area of Tokyo's West side. The fashion was unlike anywhere else I had been and being the fashion guru that I am I decided to take it all in sitting on some nearby steps. lt seems that this is also the way to be seen, as I was soon joined by a group of gothic looking punks parading their looks for all. The clic clac of high heeled shoes made me look at my grubby toes in my teva's-I definitly would never pull off the Japanese style! How these women manage their shoe and hair budgets is beyond me!! Comparing myself to all of the fashion queens that paraded by mesmerized me for quite some time. The next
thing I knew, some bloke hadn't notice me sitting on the steps and fell into my lap-definitly time to head back home. I don't mind a man throwing himself at me, but I think I was too much of a fashion faux pas for anybody in this area!
The next day my adventures were to the Senso-ji Shrine quite close to where I was staying. I followed the crowds past all the touristy shops and saw a shiny red prize at the end of the corridor. The pagoda had several tiers and the people were congregating in many different areas through the red laquered gates. I learned of how to cleanse oneself with the insense smoke and even how to approach Budda in prayer. The day became even more rewarding when I managed to find the right route (first time!) back to my accomodation! Amazing!! When I popped into McDonald's (an excuse to enjoy a cold drink in air conditioning!!) I was shocked that there was smoking allowed inside!! Different culture that's for sure. Not even in England could you do that!! When I stopped into the local for my evening meal of noodles, I was told that
everything hot was finished for the night, but I could have cold noodles. Cold noodles? Must try everything! Unfortunetly there was nobody else around for me to study the correct eating procedures. I was given a plate of very unappealing noodles all stuck together and a cup of cold soup looking like watered down soya sauce. After attempting the noodles dry, the waitress informed me of the dipping procedures and I thought I was in the clear. Luckily the sauce was quite good so I was enjoying the meal. When I left however, I think the waitress was upset with me as I had dripped juice all over the place. I hadn't quite grasped the slurping noodles from the cup procedure that I have NOW mastered. 'Gotta learn somehow right?
Sometimes it's the simple things that you notice as being the most significant differences between big cities around the world. Tokyo is very clean, respectful and polite of everybody and even the taxis make note of this. The back doors will open for you to to get in and even shut behind you. The lace seat covers and gloved drivers make you feel like royalty.(yes I did end
Tuna Torpedos
They look a bit sad with all their tails cut off! This is where the buying look at the 'grain' and colour of the meat up spending too much money on one when I was afraid to miss the Kyoto bus from fear of getting lost!!!) The metro has cars that are specifically designated for women only, I expect to avoid the gropage during rush hour. And everybody that's reading a book on the metro, seem to have a paper book cover-even for paperbacks!!
For my final day in Tokyo before jumping on the night bus to Kyoto, I intended to find an internet cafe to catch up. Ironic how it's easier said than done here! I could find computer shops though, and tempted myself with a small laptop. Finding cafes isn't normally a problem anywhere I've ever gone, but wouldn't it save me time and be more convenient if I were able to write down smaller entries! Hhhmmmm, we'll see. I did buy myself a new fan though, as my yen store special hadn't survived the exploding water bottle in my bag. I also purchased a face cloth to gently dab the sweat from my shiny face as the Japanese women do so often. I'm feeling quite trendy with this cloth, although at my age I never thought I'd have a Hello
The Ice Cutter
Looks like he was once a Samarai warrier in how he holds that knife!! Kitty cloth tucked in my bag (it was the only style available then and there... really!)
I then ventured over to the Imperial Palace. The gardens surrounding the palace (that can't actually be seen as it is the Royal residence) were a breath of fresh air. I had a chance to dive into my book and prepare myself for the many temples in Kyoto. I have one more day in Tokyo before flying out to Bankok, and there are a few things I'd still like to see, but I do feel like I have done it justice in just a few days.
Off to Kyoto...
(Although I'm in Bankok now typing the catch ups...shouldn't be too much longer till I can tell you how absolutely fab Thailand is!)
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steve
non-member comment
hey fiona!
We have been following your trip in vancouver. as always your pictures are something to behold - well maybe not the bathroom ones... hope to see you in vancouver soon!