Nagasaki

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Nagasaki... some facts... it grew to become an international port city in the 16th century and still retains Portuguese, Dutch and Chinese influences. During Japan's 200 years of national isolationism (17th-19th centuries), it was Japan's only window on the rest of the world. In 1945 it was the site of the second atomic bomb during WWII.

We had a sombre afternoon at the Atomic Bomb Museum and Memorial Hall. It's really very weird standing at the hypocenter, the exact spot of the blast. We wandered around the streets of sleepy little neighbourhoods and cafe-hopped to warm up. It's still really really cold! We visited some of the sites. Oura Cathedral - oldest Christian church in Japan, built by French missionaries; Spectacles Bridge - because, well, see the photo; Dejima Wharf - former foreign settlement and trading post; Glover Garden - former home of the merchant Thomas B Glover. Mr Glover was from Aberdeen and arrived in Nagasaki in 1859. We discovered that amongst other companies, he founded the Japan Beer Co, the forerunner of Kirin Beer. Well what do you know..!

As night fell we headed for Shian-bashi, the entertainment district, a maze of small alleyways where restaurants and izakayas are mixed up with 'hostess' bars and the red light district. Most of the eateries seem so inaccessible. They are tiny and closed off from view by wooden sliding doors with handwritten menus outside all in kanji. We walked up and down the lanes summoning up the courage to bumble into one of the little doorways. Paul was trying to decipher menus to find a sushi place. Then one of the restaurant owners came out and took us under his wing. His was a yakitori joint so he led us down another tiny alley to his friend's sushi bar. The master and mama-san welcomed us in and we sat between their other 2 customers who frequent the place every night. One spoke some English and kept the conversation (and beer, sake & sho-chu) flowing til 2am. The kindness of strangers... a fantastic night!

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