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Published: February 17th 2009
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Let me first say a heartfelt “Thank You” for all the positive responses to my last blog entry. I couldn’t help but feel like I had broken a promise (to you and myself) that I would be back this coming August. Knowing that I have friends and family that love me so much even when I’m away makes me feel less distant, which is definitely a good thing!
Ok…deep breath…Tokyo… stay calm, Dave.
My neck is sore from 5 straight days of shaking my head in disbelief. I came to the Imperial City with high expectations, all of which were exceeded. I owe a lot of this experience to my host Matthew Ireton and his family. Matthew was a member of my GW A Cappella group, and since graduating last spring, has moved back into his family home in Tokyo. He is spending his time writing a book about his travels in Japan since graduation, including eating うどん udon in Kotohira (before my arrival)! Matthew and his family, while not Japanese by blood, have lived in Tokyo for the last 20 odd years, so I was able to relax in a comfortable Gaijin setting, with bilingual hosts.
Tokyo
From the 45th floor
With Tokyo above and below is considered one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world. It is the epicenter for all things Japan—economy, government, food, advertising, electronics, comics and anime, fashion, and high-rise architecture. In this city of 12.5 million hard-working, eccentric Japanese, anything is possible. The excess of neon lights, contemporary skyscrapers, tiny no-name streets, boutique shopping bags, and subways were a whirlwind for this countryside-inhabiting bumpkin. However, Tokyo after all, is still IN Japan. One of the things I liked best was that right next to the opulent Financial District is the moat-surrounding Imperial Palace, the home to the Emperor of Japan, the symbolic figure that connects 21st century modernity with antiquity. Tucked away in the heart of the INfamous redlight district sits a serene Shinto shrine, which as the Lonely Planet points out, makes for some interesting people watching.
I remember back now to my very first blog entry, and I wrote that a lot of people had told me prior to moving here that Japan was a great country, with great food and friendly people etc etc etc. I made the statement a week into my stay that these people either stayed for a short visit or spoke Japanese.
Imperial Palace
In the heart of Tokyo I’m going to amend that and say that these folks probably spent most of their time in Tokyo. It is true that Tokyo is VERY accessible to foreigners. The incredibly efficient train system is made even easier by having more English signs than the DC Metro. Tokyoites don’t stare at foreigners like they’re giant freaks, they embrace them as co-workers, neighbors, and exporters of international culture from the world outside of Japan’s borders. Foreign residents in Tokyo would never have to leave Tokyo, and could stay for years without learning Japanese.
As a cosmopolitan city, the Tokyo-at-night spectacle is one that I won’t soon forget. Every three minutes, people by the hundreds if not thousands, cross the five-way intersection outside of Shibuya Station (a scene I believe was in “Lost in Translation”). Among the crowd, you can see the salarymen in their impeccable black suits dodging the spiky-haired fashionistas. And speaking of fashion, I will quickly lay it out plainly for you. No matter how hard you try, it is impossible to not feel foolishly underdressed in Japan, especially in Tokyo. The Japanese take their shopping seriously, which is why I struggle to believe the news of their crumbling
The suits...
on a smoke break outside a government office economy when the malls, shopping arcades, and fashion districts are teeming with shoppers looking to pick up the next expensive accessory. Right now, the fads are short shorts or skirts with tights, winter hats, and UGG boots or heels. People do not leave the house unless they are dressed and made up to perfection. In Japan, there is no such thing as half-assing it. When you choose a look, you take that look to the extreme. Meaning, if you’re a businessman, you need the most expensive (or expensive-looking) suit. If you are a long-dyed-hair guy or girl (called “gyaru” or girl), you need to have the wildest, longest (and most stupid-looking) hairstyle possible. If you are a regular housewife with deep pockets, you need to have as many designer clothes as possible. Seriously, the people are impeccably well dressed, and I have to say that in most cases I approve immensely. What I can’t approve of, however, is the notion that pigeon-toes and knock-knees are considered cute and sexy. It’s quite sad. Young girls train themselves to turn their toes in, which permanently deforms their legs and makes walking appear to be more painful than childbirth. It’s horrendous in every
and the trendies
Notice the fashion and the knees (not pictured, deformed pigeon-toes) way, and earns a BIG 2 THUMBS DOWN from just about every gaijin male I’ve met.
I had an epic Friday night, which started off meeting other GW alumni living in Tokyo, then clubbing at one of Roppongi’s most famous spots. As a friend of Matthew’s, and therefore a guest of the owner, we sipped Moet Champagne in the VIP section that was covered wall-to-wall with photos of mega-celebrities who had sat in these very same seats (you know, like, Mick Jagger, Tom Cruise, Harrison Ford…you get the idea). Even as the party was still jumping at 5am, we left to head to the famous Tsukiji Fish Market to witness the live auction of the day’s catch. We saw frozen tuna being sold for $20,000 like it was nothing. And where there’s fresh fish in Tokyo, there’s legendary Tokyo-sushi just around the corner. You can have your Denny’s after a long night of partying; I’ll take the freshest sashimi in Tokyo any day of the week.
Another highlight of my trip includes rushing to get on a departing train, and hopping on at the last second before the doors close. Relieved that I had made it, I turned
VIP
With a once-famous Japanese actor around to see a sea of female faces staring at me. Yes, I had mistakenly (or not) gotten on to the “Women Only” car (since the sign was in English, I lost my go-to excuse). Because I was the tallest, whitest, and most bearded creature in the car, it was difficult to go unnoticed. I learned that these cars exist in response to complaints that men in crammed trains will get a little…extra-curricular with their hands. So not only was I in direct violation of the rules, but also amongst those who deliberately were trying to avoid my kind. I felt only a little embarrassed.
To top off a great weekend, Matthew and I were invited to see Slowhand himself, Eric Clapton, perform live. Sitting in arguably the best seats in the house, we watched Sir Clapton rip through classics like (original) “Layla”, “Wonderful Tonight”, “Crossroads”, and “I Shot the Sheriff”. I sat there stunned at my good fortune as one of my all-time favs showed that he still had it after all these years.
With “Cocaine” still buzzing in my head (hehe), I bid Matthew farewell, and boarded an overnight bus back to Kagawa, leaving behind what
quickly became one of my favorite cities in the world.
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Hristina
non-member comment
Dear GaijinGuy, I should honestly say that I was impressed by your story about Tokyo, it was really exciting to read and learn so much about this cosmopolitan city! I am interested in visiting Tokyo in the future and now, after reading about your experience, I feel determined to make a trip to Tokyo in the future. I agree that it's strange how people there think of what is cute and sexy, I have heard of this notion before and I also don't find this nice. What surprised me was the idea of being impeccably dressed, even to an extreme. This was a new thing to learn. Also, I am impressed by the pictures you have published, Tokyo seems to be an amazing city! I am sure you have had a great time there!