Dens of inequity - Emails from Sumatra, August 2011

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Mel

The tourist cafe here produces some vegetarian versions of Indonesian food, so I am having that tonight. Lydia is getting a pizza which they also produce there. We bought an assortment of Indonesian snacks after sun down last night for today, because there would be no way to get them anytime before 4PM today, and we wouldn't want to have a junkfood deprived Sunday.

Mel

There are a number of dens of inequity(AKA tourist cafes) in the town. When me and Lydia walk past them, the owners greet us enthusiasticly. They recognise us as potential customers, by the absense of headscarfs and our foreigness. These dens of inequity are just about tolerated by the locals, so long as it is all kept out of sight. Well, that is the case most of the time. In the days approaching Ramadan these places receive a moderate amount of nagging, in a futile attempt to presuade them to change their ways, and join in the holy celebration of Ramadan, because there is more to pleasure, than things such as daytime eating and anytime alcohol drinking.

We spent most of yesterday evening in one of the dens, pigging out on Indonesian food for me and pizza for lydia. It is known as a tourist cafe where only tourists are allowed, but in reality anybody who does not want to conform to the norm is admitted and can eat, drink alcohol... in the dark recesses of the cafe, away from prying eyes and retribution.

The 19 year old waiter was teasing lydia, so I gave him a ribbing back, about the beer and cigarette he was consuming. I asked him if it is in celebration of Ramadan. He said(jokingly), that he will do anything to make Lydia forgive him. Lydia suggested he go on the street and announce he is stupid. I suggested he go on the street and drink his beer and smoke his cigarette, so the religious folk would take care of delivering his punishment for us. He said, he wants to meet Lydia again when she is 17. She said, 'No way Grandpa'. I asked what he is suggesting, and said he is to suggest it again to Lydias father, who will be in Asia in a couple of weeks.

Dirk Jan

Oh dear, he sounds like someone who who doesn't know when to quit when he's ahead, jokes-wise.^^

Mel


I think, it might by Lydia who does not know when to quit. I am considering gagging her, because of some of the things she says. She told the 17 year old guy working in the guesthouse, who was starting to fade and faint with the pressures of Ramadan deprivation, that she hopes to soon go someplace where people won't be staring at her food. She then told him, he won't be getting any scraps until 6PM. I am no fan of the religious rituals that many people here try to pressure us into observing, but tormenting those who are weak with hunger and thirst is going a bit far.
Even in the dens of inequity, people ask why I am here without my husband. It is a pity you are not meeting us here. I could parade you up and down the streets to show you off to all those who are asking about you, which is everybody.
There is an Irish girl living with the owner of the den we went to last night. She has been here for 2 months, and travelling for over a year. She said, she is in no hurry to get back to Ireland and the economy as it is there. I told her about how much travellers worry about comming to Sumatra, because of the natural disasters. She said, in this area it is mostly earth quakes, and they are not always disasterous. She said, sometimes your just feel the ground moving and no real damage is done. I suppose, it is for such mild tremors, that precautions such as wedging yourself into a doorway are useful for. It would prevent you being tossed around the room amongst falling over furniture etc - a bit like the precautions one needs to take when falling asleep on a bus here. A crash helmet would probably also come in useful for both situations.



Dirk Jan


Now, I'm packing for the last festival of the year, I'll be leaving on wednesday morning.

Mel

Is your inexpensive tent holding up OK?

Tomorrow, we are going to a town 40 KM from here, and staying in a lakeside guesthouse. I don't know yet, if we will be able to send you an email tomorrow.

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