Although not down at the eighth or ninth level, this one's a couple of levels lower in hell than the bus trip on Flores. We leave Kandangan in the dark, heading for Balikpapan on the eastern coast of Borneo. No banana bags stacked in the aisle or conspiracy theorist babblers, but worse...a driver who seems to think he's an F1 racer. He aims the bus full speed down the middle of the road, smoking clove-scented cigarettes constantly, eating junk food and sometimes talking on his cell phone as we hurtle past every other vehicle. For the next 10 hours only two
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