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Published: November 17th 2008
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the scene of Mount Bromo
you can feel it, you can touch it What I failed to say in writing about Java is its unique geological make up making it an island festooned with volcaones. One in particular, Mount Merapi can still be seen spewing out its lava which makes for an awesome sight at night and it's not too far out of Yogyakarta either. Unfortunately, while I was whiling away my time not seeing the sights I lost out on this one and by the time I discovered its presence it was too late. The best time to see the beast is at night and when I was invited to go along it was my last night and the following morning I had booked passaged to Mount Bromo, another volcano.
Mount Bromo is sitauated in the East of Java, the nearest village is Cemoro Lawang and the nearest town is Probolinggo. From Yogyarkarta it is a punishingly long ride particularly when your transport's A/C unit fails to work. Consequently we had to bear the dust and choking fumes so that by the time we arrived at our destination our faces were covered with the grime from the road and the pollution from the air. The heat was no friend either adding the
additional layer of sweat to an already distressed face. It was nightfall when we reached our hotel after leaving at 8am that morning making it a gruelling 12 hour journey.
I wish I could say that I welcomed the bed and the hot shower. The hotel was in desperate need of a makeover and the only showers I could find were cold so I settled for a hearty meal and bed for what would be just 4 hours sleep.
At 3.20am the following morning I was awoken by the alarm, a gentle tapping on the door just when I was about to drift into another dream. It was then that I remembered why I was here. Still dirty from the night before I begrudgingly put on my clothes and set forth for the restaurant where we were given dry bread and unspreadable butter oh, and a brown banana and tea without the milk. I had decided to walk upto the volcano with Ingrid rather than making for the viewpoint which entailed a ride out of town and further expense.
We were dropped off above the site of the volcano while it was still dark and made our
way into the desolate canyon surrounded by rolling mist and a chill in the air. I had about 3 layers on and a hat it was that cold. The idea was to get to the top in time for the sunrise but as we saw the night clear into day we knew it would be too late. Besides, we didn't even know which one was the volcano or even the right route to take. And all the while there were village folk with ponies tempting us to jump on for a price. They wouldn't leave us alone so Ingrid and I pretended that we were both married and had left our husbands behind at home.
I say that we couldn't identify the volcano because after the night cleared we could see 2 volcano shaped peaks and only one with what appeared to be either low cloud or smoke. In time we learned that it wasn't cloud but the sulphur from an active volcano! As such the area surrounding it is covered with volcanic sand giving it an impressible air evocative of a time passed. At its foot are stairs leading upto the mouth of the crater the top of
mount bromo
steps leading to the crater which has been completely blown away leaving a wide gaping hole. It is impossible to work around its entire edge as the scree can be dangerously slippery but that didn't stop Ingrid from giving it a go. It is only the further up you climb can you actually smell the sulphur which enters your nose and consumes your tastebuds leaving a nasty after taste.
We were incredibly lucky that day as the volcano was virtually empty which considering its location and the evocative atmosphere it creates it was only right that she too should be empty of hordes of sightseers.
On our descent back down we succumbed to the pony riders and negotiated a pretty nifty price to the edge of the hill above which our ride would be waiting to return us to our hotel.
Equally impressive is the Hindu temple sitting next to the volcano. A very simple affair of wide open courtyards, colourful doors and a single statue of Ganesh. I only learned later that people aren't really permitted inside or at least we found it very hard to gain access but I wouldn't take no for an answer and the gatekeeper finally succumbed
to my pleas.
On returning to the hotel I discovered the hot showers and it was bliss to be finally clean especially since we had another long journey ahead of us. Ingrid and I were going to Bali that day.
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