To The Cape Of Flower via Sape, then Bajawa

---

Like the navigator Antonio de Abreu before me I headed East across the arphicalego, towards the Cabo das Flores

Instead of searching for Sandalwood I was looking for Komodo Dragons and coloured volcanic lakes. For currency I carried Indonesian Rupiah, whereas the Makassasrese before me would have used Gold, or maybe even elephant tusk.

Flores had definitely seen changes. Six-foot Satellite dishes beamed MTV down from space into villages where huts are still made from bamboo. Noisy Bemo wind through roads which follow the ancient igneous landscape. The crucifix looms tall in villages where some do not know who Jesus Christ was, but still practice Animism. Buffalo sacrifices are still common, tiny huts called Ngadhu are the centre of each village, and death is still a punishment used in some villages. Yet in Labanbajo there are half a dozen Padi-dive centres and tourist restaurants, while the coloured lakes of Kelimutu have a heli-pad for VIP tourists to be flown in. Flores is still not quite sure of itself as a destination, it boasts some of the most impressive sights in the world, but doesn't have the vanity to tell the world about them.

Before Flores I was in Gili Trawanagan off the Island of Lombok, the young backpacker’s party-place in Indonesia. And I began my stint exploring Hindu Bali, where my travels combined with Nyepi (New Year celebrations).

Over the 30 days I began writing a journal everyday, not trusting my appalling memory. I improved my photography, and I learnt just a little bit of Bahasa Indonesia (the national language).

I had broken from the group, but I was only on my own for a few days in Kuta, Bali.

Francesco, a Sicilian who ran a restaurant in Ibiza was my companion for Bali and Gili.

Martin and Henk, Investment bankers from Rotterdam, were a laugh in eastern Flores.

Inland Flores was explored with Feri, a grounded IT consultant from Ghent.

Finally a Bolivian man whose name I forget amazed me with stories of East Timor and communism on the road to Maumere.

It seems as though there were almost too many friendly Floresians, Balinese and Trawangians who became friends and who lit up my days teaching tricks with matches, illegal martial arts and traditional weaving.

I will try and tell my story with photos. But sometimes you can't take a photo. Like when after fourteen hours of hassle and extortion from the touts and crooks, your Italian friend finally explodes.
"MAMMA MIA!!!"
The scrum of Indonesian con-men finally scatters.

Or watching the sun emerge from behind the volcanoes on top of an old school bus somewhere in the Nusa Tungerra. Gripping the roof-bars with some new mates from Sumbawa - delirious after fifteen hours on the road, with eight more on a ferry to come...

---

Photos

Zeus of the Heavens
7am. We looked across the lake towards Gunung Batur (around 2000 metres) for a few silent minutes.

Nyoman's Feet
My hostess in Ubud was beautiful and she supported her feet on her heels for the hours of Gamelan playing.

Floresian Sunrise
No visual effects were used here. Just Flores giving me one last glimpse of it's beauty before I hopped on a plane back to the rest of the world.

Do you want to make a deal?
My first few days in Indonesia were spent stuck in a bungalow in the tourist hell called Kuta in Bali. One of the few human interactions was with this man who offered to take USD off me in exchange for a cocunut shell hair pin. I need one of those for sure.

A Shrine
I stayed at Balinese homestays. They typically had rooms surrunding large courtyards which always had a shrine to Siva.

Kecak in Ulu Watu temple
I hired a motorbike, balanced my rucksack across the front and set off for the South of Bali. I saw (along with most of Japan it seems) a Kecak Dance, which is elaborate costumed dancers accomapanied by men chanting. It was set atop sheer cliffs at sunset.

Sacrifice in Ubud
Whilst learning to cook Balinese cuisine with some guys I met I had the oppurtunity to slaughter.I was shaking as I pressed the knife through its neck until i felt bone. We then broke its neck and left it for dead. The killing was accompanied by Hindu prayer which blessed a good reincarnation.

The Gamelan Girls
I met francesco (the Italian) lurking amonst these exotic Women one night in Ubud, Bali . On the days leading up to Nyepi the Womens Gamelan group of Ubud toured a few temples of the surrounding area. Using charm that both the Queen and the Pope would have been proud of we got in on a fantastic daytrip with fourty balinese women. We saw vast offerings to the gods, we ate the deliscious food and of course we dressed up accordingly. We sat for hours listening to the motor-rythms of the Balinese Gamelan. It was one of those perfect days which feels like a dream now.

The Children of the Volcano
Our ascent of Gunung Abung began in darkness at 4.30am. A quick dash to the top via a naked man climbing down, and we were ready to drink our "Bali Kopi" and watch the sun come up. When these three children came up to see us in the early morning light we were amazed. A truly special few hours were spent making funny faces and giggling with these children who's world ended at the rim of their volcano.

Nyoman
Or should I say palace. This three storey abode was situated lakeside, with views of volcanoes, a four poster bed, three balconies, a cd/dvd player, a kithen, personal chef etc. It was one of the extroadinary bargains on my trip, due to it not seeing any visitors in four months, we got this luxury for just over 3 pounds. If you want details, send an email.

Girls on Gili
This was on Gili trawangan, a pretty island off Lombok full of chilled out travellers and locals.I think i spent five days here, they merge into one. Mainly i drank lemon juice in the day and Bintang in the evening,I watched dvd's in huts on the beach and I made friends. Francesco and I came as a two, but by the end there was a great group of Swiss, Malays, Swedes, Dutch, Germans and even Koreans. Fun times indeed.

The National Game
I was amazed to find out from this Sumbawan man that Chess was a national obsession.I was even more amazed when he told me that the ill treatment by the Government (poor wages etc) of Indonesia's champions was currently a very hot topic to affect votes. I challenged him to a game. I lasted literaly three minutes in the first game, and improved to nine in the second.

Henk and Martin, Investment bankers in training
These two were fresh out of a few semesters at Yogyakarta Univeristy in Java. You couldn't ask for a funnier pair to charter a boat with and go hunting for Komodo dragons. On the return to the port of Llabanbajo Martin explained to me the trading of equity securities and the plans to introduce a 71% tax on the rich people of Holland.

The clear waters of Komodo
I have never seen such clear and such bright water. The landscape of sheer green hills rising from this stunning sea is the one enduring image that I have of Flores.

The poleman
More for the show than anything else. The boat had a motor.

The world famous Komodo dragon
Komodo dragons have attracted experts and obsessives from the world over. What's amazing is that these 2-3 metre lizards can only be found on the two islands of Komodo and Rinca. A Komodo has killed a man before, so we kept our distance.

The Waiting game
Even more amazing than the Komodo, was this Buffallo that had been bitten by a dragon. The wound was left to become infected, and there is typically a one week delay between the bite and the buffalos death. Then the draons come to feast. We smelt death as this poor beast was counting down the days until it perished.

Time is Money
This was taken somewhwere on my long journey from Lombok to Flores.This guy was so chilled out, letting a blanket dry on his bumper and otherwise enjoying the sun that the slogan seemed so wonderfully Ironic.

Wedding Photo
I am often asked "are you married yet?" (along with "Where are you going?" and "First time in Indonesia?),so when I stopped off in the port of Lebar I decided to reverse the question. This was misintepreted somewhere along the line, so what you see is something of a wedding photo. I'm sure you notice that I seem more happy at the match up than my partner. Suggestions would be apprecaieted as to what I can do to excite more passion. Anyway I managed to patch up the mishap with many apoligies and handshakes. I left on the Sumbawa ferry relieved to be a single man again.

The Virgin Mary guarding Ruteng
I like to do things at Sunrise. One morning i woke early before my bus to Bajawa. I found this beautful statue of the Virgin Mary on top of a large hill offering views all over the rice terraces and forests of Flores. My day lit up further when this family came to pray (amazingy they all arrived on one scooter!). It was a reminder that after travelling from a Hindu to a Muslim region, I was now in a Catholic place.

The Vilage of Bena
Bena is a Ngada village near the town of Bajawa. These villages are fascinating pockets of culture remaing from the Dongson miration over 2700 years ago from China. Ancestor worship is still vital to these communities, as well as live sacrifice and the traditional huts. These villages only triggered my curiosity further, i was told about a village not far away where the men were only 1m30 tall!

The Coloured Lakes of Kelimutu
Forever changing colour, these lakes are worth the hike up. As i popped my head over the crater rim to see the vast expanse and the coloured water I was dazzled completely.I spent a morning on the Kelimutu rim here listening to Bob Dylan and The Shins, watching the sun light up the lakes further.

Oh Cecilia
I met Cecilia after a few hours trekking down from Kelimutu back to home in Moni. Amazingly she had not heard the song that had been written about her. I know! So I played her the Simon and Garfunkel classic and she gave me Betel Nuts in thanks. Its the chewing of these that turns her mouth red, and the nuts have more cultural significance as you head east towards Sumba.

Comments

[Hamish]

Wonderful!
Wonderful pictures and a great blog, Jona. Looking forward to talking about your adventurs more!

[Alys n Edd]

hey bro! like your style with the blog- good for tight fisted travellers like myself,who cannot be arsed to read through heaps of text. sounds pretty amazing, though no pics of the bike?? i must say i am impressed by your photography and courage to travel alone. hope everyting is good with you,keep it up, aloha, edrin

[Sari]

OZ greetings
Sweet photos! I am really looking forward to explore thailand, vietnam and kambodia... but having too much fun in OZ at the time - and the country is so big that it deserves more time than few weeks that I've spent so far. Will definitely ask for insider tips before heading there. Safe travels!Big hug!

[Charlie Rawlings]

So jealous!
think you are so brave to go by yourself but probably got so much out of it because of it! It looks amazing, such lovely photos Jona x x x

[Kate Wright]

Great Blog
Love your vivid writing and wonderful pictures - you are certainly making the most of it. Keep safe and happy and look forward to the next installment!

[anonymous]

errrrr, your making me unhomesick............

[Sarh Cheets]

Just amazing
Jono I am just amazed at all that yoiu have seen and done , when most of us think - ' Indonesia ? - no thank you' - it looks so beautiful and so varied. Thank you for opening my eyes. All love Sarahxx