Friday December 12, 2008 - Sunset Cottages

I was up early enough this morning to get all my chores done and be ready for our 9am departure as planned. It was hard though let me tell you. Firstly it was raining that sort of ‘sleep in’ drizzle with grey skies and cool temperatures that always makes it hard to get out of bed, secondly I didn’t really want to leave and thirdly as previously discussed I’m basically a lazy bugger. Sure some more company would have been nice here, but even on my own I have loved every second spent at this enchanting little gathering of huts. I procrastinated and stuffed around packing, finding it too difficult to be in a hurry to go but eventually no amount of wasting time would delay the inevitable.

Breakfast, as it has been every day, was a large plate consisting of toast and fruit; beautifully fresh, ripe mangos and bananas that make my mouth water even as I write this and that’s just from remembering them. Marleno and I tried to load tunes onto his mp3 player but I reckon it’s broken… at least I ended up teaching Marleno a new colloquialism “It’s a goner mate”. We drank tea and lazily chatted while the Cottages owner worked out my total for the four days I have stayed. I underestimated just how much I can drink and eat but surprisingly the bill worked out to only $14 Australian a day, all inclusive with a large batch of laundry. You got to love Indonesia don’t ya?

I said my goodbyes to all but I could not find the owners eldest daughter Aileeta anywhere. Have I mentioned her yet? She’s a bit cute and I wanted to say goodbye, if only to see her blush and get all shy like she always does when I talk to her. She’d have to be early to mid-twenties I think, going by what Marleno has told me of his family structure. She has an unusual face, not ugly, yet not classically beautiful either but when she thinks she is by herself she wears a proudly independent expression I find fascinating. Her very dark skin colour and flawless complexion reminds me, to a degree, of Grace Jones but it’s her body that is absolute killer material. She has the kind of body all the younger people seem to have around here; slim, long and toned from hard labour combined with an incredibly healthy diet.

Anyway Marleno told me to walk around the back of some buildings I had not ventured behind before, as she was most likely there. I should have known he was setting me up by the strange smirk he was trying to stifle but good old gullible Monsta takes him as being genuine and follows his instructions. As I rounded the last of the buildings I could hear water splashing and thought she must be doing laundry, I didn’t call out at all, so managed to completely surprise her right in the middle of bathing herself at the families, very private outdoor well. The only way you could even hope to see past all the hedging and fencing is to go the exact way Marleno told me to. DAMN! I got a full view of her nakedness and let me tell you my imagination had fallen way short of just how good looking she is. I just about fell over my bottom jaw as she silently stood there facing slightly to my left, caught without a way to cover herself, giving me a look like she was ready to pick-up the nearby machete and have my balls. I stammered my apologies and blushing a crimson red backed away unable to avert my eyes until I had made it back around the buildings again.

Marleno and my driver Johnny where in fits of laughter even before they saw my face, but as soon as I was visible to them they just about wet themselves as they rolled around on the ground. The owner, Marleno’s uncle, the father of this young woman came over and in Bahasa obviously enquired what they found so funny. Once he got his answer he tut-tutted at the two assholes, who were still slapping each-others backs and wiping tears from their faces, but even he couldn’t hide his laughter at my expression, despite trying very hard to do so. I jumped into the car and hid in the backseat behind it’s darkly tinted windows while the two clowns tried to gather themselves and get back to their feet. They had almost made it when Aileeta came from the well wrapped in a thin sarong and gave them an earbashing you could tell was 99 percent swear words even without knowing the language. That only made them howl harder and me shrink even further down so I was hopefully invisible. Of course she knew I was there and walked straight over to my window. I had no choice other than to wind it down and face the music. Her fine form was still clearly visible despite the now very wet sarong that clung to her skin and I must of blushed again as I caught myself perving. She just smiled, leaned in as if to whisper something to me and stole a soft kiss from me, on the cheek only just to the side of my lips. Now I really, REALLY didn’t want to go and yet couldn’t wait to be the hell away from my embarrassment, all at the same time. Turns out she had told Marleno she thought I was pretty cute for a white guy about two days ago. Why am I always so oblivious when it comes to women and why do they always wait so long to be more forthright with me.

About 50 minutes later I was still daydreaming about her body in the backseat as we reached Maumere. It was a long drive into the bank because of the Friday markets and also because Marleno and Johnny did not stop with they’re teasing the whole way. Especially when I enquired about sexuality and single adults in the village, you know… is it cool to have casual relationships? Is Aileeta spoken for? Etc. My swearing at Marleno when I found out it’s pretty much as accepted as back home and yes Aileeta is definitely very single, brought about new howls of delight from my friends. “Some mate you are ya little bastard,” I told him “you could of fucken let a lonely Monsta know two days ago she thought I was cute. Fuckin C&*T!!” Marleno couldn’t believe I hadn’t noticed she would always serve me my meals and in fact wouldn’t let anyone else do so even when she wasn’t working. Fuck Monsta! Open your eyes son!! I had noticed that, along with her apparent shyness and constant giggles at my lame Bahasa, it should of clicked but didn’t. Sometimes I swear I know as much about this world as an eight year old. Scratch that.. an eight year old probably does better with the ladies. Anyway at least the ATM was familiar territory for me. I know what buttons to press and actions to take to get what I want there. Cashed up, I got back into our car and informed the boys they could drop the sniggering or drop me at the bus terminal and miss out on their impending payday when they get me to Moni. That seemed to do the trick and I didn’t hear another chuckle from the front seat for the rest of the journey.

The drizzle I had woken to this morn had eased off for our departure even allowing the sun out for a bit but by the time we had fuelled up and were leaving Maumere it was coming down quite hard. It stayed like that until just before we stopped at Baga Beach to stretch our legs and grab a drink but quickly started again as soon as we left. All in all it’s been a pretty miserable day with the weather. The drive was quite ho-hum as well. I’m starting to become used to gorgeous mountain vistas, incredible valleys dropping away to quant little shacks amongst rice paddies and even the odd traditional house we passed didn’t really get my excitement up. I felt just like the day outside, cold and unfriendly because I knew I would probably never be back to Sunset again. Even if I did return it would inevitably not be the same experience. Before I knew it we could see the very small village of Moni on the other side of the valley we were skirting and I also realised I would have to say goodbye to Marleno. It’s another thing about travelling that I did not anticipate as I chilled on my couch back in Brisbane. All the goodbyes are just downright depressing. You make it to somewhere new, spend time getting to know people and then just as bonds start to form at a level beyond the superficial you have to move on again.

I shouted the boys lunch at Timor Sari in Moni. It’s a huge restaurant attached to a hotel where I thought I would stay. I couldn’t bare to make a big deal about saying goodbye to my mate so I just gave them their money and left for my room after a brief but warm handshake. Marleno seemed to be finding it hard too, he stumbled over his words trying to say something to me but I cut it short with my departure. I then sat in my room for ten minutes just staring at the wall. A creepy hollowness was permeating my body and I realized I just could not stand to stay at this large, impersonal hotel. I broke out the laptop and reviewed my Lonely Planet. Across the road and down a sidetrack about 150 meters is a home stay called Palm Bungalows. Even just reading about it felt right so I grabbed my stuff and returned my key (noticing as I did the price for my room was 350,000rp…. Yikes!! Got to check those things before you agree to stay Monsta. Lucky I’d had a change of heart.) and then set off on foot for my new abode for the night.

I was about to turn around and double back towards Moni because all I could find were little farms on this track, but I plucked up the courage and just asked some dude standing out the front of one of those farmhouses. By chance it was exactly where I was heading and the guy warmly invited me in. He led me down a dirt path to a series of cute, peaceful little bungalows on a rise overlooking a beautiful babbling brook. Now this is what I was looking for, especially at the bargain rate of 50,000 RP and that includes breakfast. There are obviously several different extended families living here and children of all ages running around shouting “Ello” at me. The guy shouted into one dwelling and next thing you know there are about 8 bodies, male and female, hurrying around sweeping, cleaning and making my bed. The dude sat me down on the little porch of the cabin, yelled out something else and before I knew it I had a large glass mug of steaming hot, sweet tea in my hand. I grinned like a kid in a candy store at how much it reminded me of Sunset, only cooler (we are in the mountains now), more populated and down right bustling.

I set my gear inside my room once they where done and asked about how I might get into town, around 3km away, and the man here just threw me the keys to his bike haha… I love it! So I set off to see what Moni has to offer which turns out is not a lot. This is really just the staging point for trips to Kalimutu, the huge active volcano some 30 minutes away with three different coloured lakes in it’s crater. I am going there tomorrow and it is really the only reason I am here to begin with. Moni centre has a few houses; about two other hotels and a bar that was closed or at least deserted, so I didn’t stay long at all and soon found myself back on the farm at Palm Bungalows. I spent the rest of my afternoon chilling on the porch, listening to the massive thunder claps rolling on over head, writing and charging my camera, preparing for tomorrow. I think it will be an early night tonight, as I have to be up at 4.30 in the morning. I get the use of the bike again to see Kalimutu and then I am catching the 10am bus to Bajawa some 6 hours away.

I just got a message from Marleno. It reads: “Hay Mate… we already arrived at sunset, I hope u always be fun like u were in sunset, u are the best friend I meet in

Sunset Resident
He lives there but is too shy to tell me his name. I think he is one of the owner's may offspring... there is not alot to do in these parts :-)

my life, and say hallo to u’r family. Nice Guy. See you next time cause, I think u are as like my brother, mate. Take care ya, and I hope we can meet again.” Awwwwwwwwwww! Fuck I’m so lucky to meet these people like I have. The Murri boys at my cousins yard, Neil, Tav and Meags, Antonio, Emmanuelle, John, The two Un-nameable Aussies, Marleno, Julius, Abu and countless others. I haven’t even gotten two months into this trip and am already overwhelmed with feelings about places and people. Fuck! I’m going to sign off now. Much love to you all at home. Miss you all so much and wish I could do more to show you what you’re missing, out here in the big, beautiful world. Poice.

Saturday December 13, 2008 - Moni

My alarm rudely interrupted my dreams of Aileeta. I was just about to get my hands on her too. Those perfect chocolate boobs, her six-pack tummy that still manages to retain one of those little womanly paunches between the hips that I find so sexy, her athletes ass and legs….. SIGH!! Come on Monsta! What sort of start is that to your day’s entry… deviant I’d say hahaha… let me try again hey. (It just struck me once more, how many incidents involving nudity have occurred on my trip already. I must confess this last one is definitely my favourite so far!)

As soon as I cracked open my eyes I knew it was going to be a long shot getting a glimpse of Kalimutu. There was that feeling of brooding closeness in the air you get when the weather is no good. I didn’t even have to see the cloud to know it was there, thick and low, exactly the worst-case scenario for a visit to this sacred mountain. If it was pelting down rain I could just abandon my plans without guilt, roll over and keep sleeping but it wasn’t and I felt compelled to at least try and pray for a miracle break in the weather. Out of bed it was pretty chilly too so I broke out my blue Nurcha hoodie and rain jacket for the first time on my travels. It feels good to be using one of the few pieces of kit that has remained untouched in my backpack.

With all my stuff assembled I walked up to the front of the farm to find my bike. The owner man (I’d give you his name but I can’t pronounce it let alone spell it) was standing there waiting for me with one of the young lads who resides here. He explained he was worried about me riding on unfamiliar roads, in the dark, in this weather and he would get his nephew to drive me. He introduced him as Valentino Rossi (haha), in an obvious dig at the fact the bloke loves to fang along on the bike. I sparked up a dart for the trip, climbed onboard the pillion seat of this tiny, tired, two-stroke scooter that would take us as far as possible up the mountain and we set off. It took just over forty minutes to make the car park area but they were a fun forty. This kid can ride well and knows the roads even better. He indicated he would wait for me under a shelter where they were making tea and coffee for visitors and I started the 15 or so minute climb up the track to the viewing point. I don’t know why I bothered really because even at the car park we were in cloud. By the way, I know fifteen minutes doesn’t sound like much of a climb but I was whistling like a boiling kettle only a few minutes into the hike. Indonesia, for the first time, was treated to my Monsta pigeon noises loudly echoing over the mountainside of Kalimutu. It would have been heaps of fun if they had some zoologist convention up there or something because I sure did sound like I was making bird calls haha.

The top of Kalimutu would be awesome viewing in good weather. Even in the fine drizzle that started falling as I climbed it was eerie and yet beautiful. I stumbled over solidified lava flows and up decrepit stone stairways to make the railed off area that gives you the best view of the three lakes. The scene was disappointing, even though I had been well aware of my limited chances of actually seeing anything. I guess I had still harboured a small hope that it would be clear enough for long enough for me to get a decent photo. It wasn’t going to unfortunately and despite my best efforts at finding a worthwhile shot somewhere I got nothing. You could just vaguely make out the lakes visually through the fog but on film it was all black due to the clouds blocking all of my light. One of the things I did notice was the smell. As if someone had conducted a failed chemistry experiment nearby, the air was thick with sulphurous chemical fumes. I hung about for around fifty minutes praying for a small weather break but the rain actually started to fall harder and I thought it best I left and gathered my guy so we would not have to travel back down the steep, windy mountain roads in the wet. We made it back to Palm Bungalows just before we were too wet ad uncomfortable. Turned out leaving when I did was the best decision I had made all morning, within seconds the skies opened up and the rain fell hard.

So now I am sitting back on my porch finishing my breakfast of eggs, pancakes and fruit while writing to you all. I’m really just burning time until I need to catch my bus to Bajawa. It should be a very interesting trip, as I can barley see 200 metres away due to the cloud cover and heavy rainfall. I’m crossing my fingers I get a sensible driver, no big landslides and a lightly populated bus but I’m not holding my breath. Guess I’ll have to fill you all in on what it was like later, for now I better pack again and make sure everything is waterproof.

Hey y’all, I’m back. Obviously I’m safe and sound and all the hype about how bad the road from Moni to Ende (a large port town on the way to Bajawa) is was overstated. In fact I have to ask, did you all send me some good Karma or something? I had a 3 person bench seat all to myself, snuck in a few small kips, avoided the numb ass syndrome and generally had one of the easiest bus journeys to date. The weather has stayed overcast with patchy rain all day and that helped to keep everything comfortable. About the only excitement I have had today was nearly missing my bus. It was raining so hard at Palm Bungalows we waited until the last possible moment to jump on the bike and run into town and when I arrived the bus was just about to pull out. All’s well that ends well I guess but I would of preferred just going earlier, especially considering we had to do the trip in rain that was just as heavy as any other point anyway. Does it make you people feel a bit strange when you recognise your parents in your own behaviour? I must acknowledge I have my Mum’s propensity to be early at things like travel departures and I was nervously clock watching for the half hour leading up to leaving Palm farm. I distracted myself by playing with three of the very young, too cute girls that live there. They each got several turns on my shoulders and we laughed so hard together the littlest one wee’d her pants. The poor dear immediately started crying when she realized but I helped her lose them and change into a tiny sarong so Mum didn’t notice. Quite the rebel aint I?

On the bus it was pretty much more of the same with huge spectacular mountains, crazy twisty roads, treacherous descents into fertile valleys, long flat beachside highways and then back up into the massive mountains again. I know this place is breathtakingly beautiful but to me now it is just more of the same. Maybe I have a slight botany fascination but I couldn’t help notice the vegetation in each area. As you climb a mountain range you notice the huge jungle like trees change to bamboo stands lining each side of the road, so thick, so as to offer no view, change to shrub like vegetation and then the exact reverse down the other side until you hit the valley floor where it is all banana trees and rice paddies. It’s a cycle that repeats over and over so that you have this strange sense of déjà vu and starts you wondering if you are not just doing loops of the same mountain. It happened to me several times today where we would pass a fence or small hut and I’d be thinking “I know this place, we passed it an hour ago” even though your logical brain is telling you it is just an illusion.

I was just starting to get suspicious enough I nearly said something to the driver, when we crested another ridge line and started our descent into a valley that at first glimpse I would have sworn we had passed through at least once, maybe several times before on our journey today. I was mentally trying to frame my location questions in Bahasa when the bamboo finally started to clear and I realized we were in fact somewhere I had never seen. It was the most amazing sight. Waterfall after waterfall cascading off a mountainous ridge on the other side of the valley so tall and sheer it was like a BASE jumpers wet dream. I got to 26 falls in my mental count before I was so distracted by the beauty I forgot to continue. Maybe this phenomenon is reliant on rains as heavy as we have had the last few days because otherwise it should be one of the well publicised attractions of the area and I have not heard a word about it. Even our driver who does this trip day in and day out slowed down to gasp at the sight. Some of the falls had to be several hundred feet tall with long sinuous ribbons of water dropping down a cliff that had no trees on it just a moss like grass. Imagine several Ularu’s laid out like fallen dominoes, melting into each other, that are dark brown and bright green with sheerer sides and multiple waterfalls. Are you getting it? There was no possibility of stopping so I have no photos and you’re just going to have to take my word for it but it was a real treat.

We made Bajawa around 4pm and even though it is still quite chilly here the rain has stopped. Bajawa is a sleepy little place that I have not really investigated yet but doesn’t appear to have a lot to offer. It’s bigger than Larantuka but smaller than Maumere and due to the fact it is in the mountains does not seem to have the same charm (maybe it’s the seaside thing I like so much) I encountered in Larantuka. I checked into Edelweiss Hotel and snared a $9 room for the night. I’ll probably stay there even though it appears to be pretty standard fare. I’m now sitting in the deserted Camellia restaurant satiating my blog addiction and enjoying some cold Bin Tang. I tried to find Internet access to update you all but everywhere is shut at the moment. It’s probably another service outage. I think I’m going to grab some food and crash out early, as it has been a bloody long day, so once again unless something happens that requires my immediate narrative I will talk to you all tomorrow. Poice.

---

---