Part 18 March 16 Payangan Dogs bark, chickens cackle, geese squawk, water gurgles--the sounds of morning wake the four of us straining the spartan bed offered for the night. Thousands of tiny ants crawl along the windowsill, invited in perhaps by the windows opened to accommodate our Western penchant for fresh air and relief from the heat of the day. More than occasionally, one of these ants finds its way onto my exposed skin, perpetrating tiny bites that are their last living act once they are so easily identified. This is definitely a different face of Bali than we see in
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