Three Weeks in Bali Part 2- Central Bali

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In our time in Bali, we managed to see quite a bit, which made for a lengthy blog. So, I've decided to separate it into 4 sections: Southern Bali, Central Bali, Northern Bali, and Diving in Bali. At the end of each I'll include my do's and don'ts. This is part 2, enjoy!

CENTRAL BALI (sights in and around Ubud)

Before I begin listing the many places of interest in Central Bali, let me offer one tip. If you can afford it, hire a driver! This is the best, most comfortable way to visit the many sights that this region has to offer. One full day of sightseeing, approximately 10 hours, will cost about 300,000-400,000 IDR, which is a very reasonable fee. The time spent figuring out how to get from one place to another and the cost of a taxi from here to there to there truly add up, so consider this as a practical option. Not to mention, you can always ask the driver to stop at a place that looks interesting along the way, a luxury you would not have in a metered taxi or a bus.

Monkey Forest: Right in the heart of central Ubud lies the Monkey Forest, a sacred space of temples and—you guessed it—monkeys! Walking through the forest gives you a feeling of having been transplanted far outside of the city to a deserted space inhabited only by you, and the monkeys. The arching trees give the entire place a dark feel, but the sun persists through the leaves. Bright green moss grows on old, stone statues. Colossal trees with tangled vines allow monkeys a safe place from which to watch the humans roam about. Walking through the windy pathways of the forest almost feels like something straight out of an Indiana Jones movie. And, I know I’ve said this before, beware of the monkeys! A daring and quick one stole my chocolate croissant while I was walking on the street outside of the forest!

Elephant Cave (Goa Gajah): This temple complex is truly fantastic! Here, you can see bathing pools, rice terraces, and of course, the elephant cave. This cave was constructed sometime in the 9^th Century, and the entrance is through a demon’s mouth. Don’t skip out on walking the small pathways around the cave entrance, they lead to small but beautiful rice paddies, gardens, and lush walking paths. The cave is ornately carved and surprisingly well preserved.

Rocky Mountain Temple (Gunung Kawi): The locals call this the rocky mountain temple due to the ten huge shrines which are skillfully cut right into the face of the cliff. Some holds toms of the royal family. Dating back to the 11^th century, this temple can only be reached after an easy walk of 370 steps down. The hard part is getting back up, but I guarantee you this temple is definitely worth the energy. As with the Elephant Cave, this temple offers more to see than just the main attraction. Take a walk around to find more rice terraces, gardens, and beautiful buildings.

Holy Water Temple (Tirta Empul): This temple is a must see, more for the experience than the architecture. In the center of the temple grounds is a largehot springs pool in which locals bathe to obtain spiritual and physical purity. There is often a long line of locals waiting to bathe in the pool. If you’re feeling brave, enter the pool and experience it for yourself, but be mindful of the customs and rituals of those observing the faith.

Mount Agug and Mount Batur: Mount Agung is the highest point on the island, while Mount Batur is much smaller but an active volcano. The daring can partake in the strenuous hike to the top of Mount Agung, while the less daring can do a sunrise hike to the top of Mount Batur. The even less daring can have a peaceful buffet lunch at any of the restaurants that line the street overlooking the two peaks.

Tegallalang Rice Terrace: Yes, this is one of the busiest tourist traps in all of Bali, but once you arrive there, you’ll understand why. The views of the rice terraces are spectacular here! I was even more impressed by Tegallalang than Jatiluwih. I must have taken 100 pictures at this site alone! Every direction you look in, every step you take is another stunning view. If the crowds are stressing you out, relax in one of the many cafes that overlook the beauty of the rice terraces.

Coffee Plantation: Central Bali is dotted with coffee plantations. Ask any driver to take you to one and they will happily do so. Here, you can enjoy a tour of the plantation, along with a free coffee tasting. For a coffee aficionado like myself, this was a treat! We sampled seven types of coffee, ranging from vanilla, to chocolate, to the more obscure like ginseng. Even more of a delicacy than ginseng coffee is Kopi Luwak, which is made from the coffee beans that have been ingested by the Asian Palm Civet, a mongoose-type animal. As gross as it may sound to some, it’s a fascinating process: First the civet eats the beans, they then undergo a fermenting process in the intestines, only to be defecated and cleaned and treated by coffee cultivators. The end product is a rather expensive but delightful cup of coffee.

Mas (Wood Carving Village): Any driver you hire will undoubtedly offer to bring you to Mas to witness the amazing art of wood carving. This is where the best wood carving inBali is produced, so be prepared to see some striking works of art. The best part is being able to see the wood carvers diligently working on their craft. Because this is the place for Grade A artwork, be prepared to pay much more for woodwork than you would in Kuta. But, the quality is superior and the wood is meant to last a very long time. The precision, detail, and effort put into each work of art here will blow your mind!

Mother Temple (Pura Besakih): As the name suggests, the Mother Temple is the most important of the directional temples inBali. It also happens to be the largest, situated on Mount Agung, which adds to the vastness and mystique of this holy temple. Once through the entry gates, guides will insist that you cannot enter the grounds without their help. They will then quote you an unreasonable fee (in our case, as much as it cost for us to have a driver for the entire day). A guide is quite useful here, and you can bargain the price down considerably. There are several areas that non-worshipers cannot enter, so the assistance of a guide is recommended. We were told that this is the only temple which a Hindu worshiper of any caste can worship in. The temple is truly extraordinary, from the building complexes, to the breathtaking backdrop of Mount Agung.

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces: A World Heritage Site and popular tourist spot, Jatiluwih is a beautiful spot with rice paddies as far as the eye can see. I mentioned earlier that I was far more impressed with the Tegallalang rice terraces, primarily because it was much more visitor-friendly. We were able to easily navigate the narrow walking paths and venture deeper into the terraces. This was not the case with Jatiluwih. Don’t let that distract you from its undeniable beauty.

Ulun Danu Temple on Lake Bratan: This iconic temple was built in 1633 to honor the goddess of the lake. The scenery surrounding this temple is amazing. The rolling hills, calm lake, and gardens are the perfect backdrop for this modest temple that looks as though it’s ready to float away. This is the perfect place to sit, relax, and enjoy the scenery. It’s not a bad place to practice your photography skills, either, as the temple lends itself to beautiful shots from any angle.

Git Git Waterfall: After a short walk down some steps and past several shops, you begin to hear the sound of cascading water. Around one more bend you are instantly welcomed by a 60 meter tall waterfall surrounded by flourishing greenery. Hop on some rocks to the center for the perfect photograph!

Bali Dos and Don’ts

Do hire a driver if you can spare the money. We hired a driver several times during our trip and it made thing so much more enjoyable. We were able to choose where we wanted to stop, what we wanted to see, and the pace at which we wanted to travel. The price ranged from $30-$50 for a full day (10-12 hours), which I think is totally worth it.

Do haggle! This is my tip for any destination in Southeast Asia. Haggle to your heart’s content! It may seem awkward at first but it is definitely worth it. Start by asking the price, and follow with a counteroffer of 50%!o(MISSING)f that price. What will follow is a back and forth, at which point you can decide if the item is worth it. If you leave without purchasing the item in question, chances are the store owner will follow you with a dramatically lower price. Haggle for beach chairs, haggle for souvenirs, haggle for basically everything.

Do beware of the monkeys, especially at Uluwatu Temple. These crafty monkeys will steal your belongings and offer to exchange them for food. Of course, in order to do this successfully, you will need the help of a “guide,” who will generously offer to help you, in exchange for money. The monkey forest is also home to some clever monkeys, one even stole my chocolate croissant as we were walking on the street outside of the forest!

Don’t shy away from trying local food specialties. I cannot stress this enough. So much of the cultural experience is tied into the food. Many Balinese people speak English, so if you have dietary restrictions or can’t handle spicy food, you can be accommodated.

Don’t miss out on seeing a traditional Balinese dance performance. I highly recommend seeing it in central Bali, as the performances in Southern Bali are geared towards tourist and tend to have much less authenticity.

Don’t forget to make time for diving. Even if you have no prior experience, many dive shops will take you on an “introductory dive” at a calm dive site. Even there, the sea life will be beautiful and varied. At the very least, take a snorkeling trip to Tulamben and swim through a WWI-era shipwreck with swarms of sliver fish.

Top 3 “Keep on you at all times” Items:

1. Sarong: All temples will require you to wear one upon entry. It’s better to have your own and save on sarong rental fees.

2. Sunblock: I cannot stress this enough, the sun inBali is harsh and strong, reapply regularly.

3. Bug spray. I have never been so covered in bug bites as I was inBali. Even worse was that I had allergic reaction to them, requiring me to get antihistamines at the local pharmacy. So yes, bug spray, use it often!

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Photos

Isn't this beautiful?
Monkey Forest