When we arrived in Pushkar ten days ago we were disappointed to find that the world-famous holy lake, which has been the centrepiece of the Pushkar Festival for decades, maybe centuries, maybe millenia, was suddenly not there. This was particularly annoying because the lake is lovingly described in the latest Lonely Planet Guide and furthermore we had paid premium rate for a hotel with a lake view. In place of the lake was a flat expanse of brown dust, about 1 km square, inhabited by a few bulldozers, stray dogs, stray cows, and the occasional woman taking a shortcut with a
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