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Published: June 29th 2009Asia » India
May 28th 2009

As I exited the Mumbai airport in the backseat of a classic 30 year-old non air-conditioned corroding cab and drove towards the city, my brain struggled to process the superabundance of stimuli it was receiving. Out the open window I was introduced to the heat, the dirt, the crowds, the traffic, the noise, the cows, the dogs, the goats, the poor, the rich, the slums, the rising new shiny buildings... Read Full Entry


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Edward Hadad
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In 1951, the Nepalese monarch ended the century-old system of rule by hereditary premiers and instituted a cabinet system of government. Reforms in 1990 established a multiparty democracy within the framework of a constitutional monarchy. A Maoist in...more info

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AshramAshram
Ashram

We passed these women in the village. Hands-down impressive.
AshramAshram
Ashram

Beautiful green everywhere.
AshramAshram
Ashram

Laurel, Antonia, and Sanna of the US, Scotland, and Sweden (respectively) pose with this jackfruit. (The jackfruit was not hurt in the making of this photo.)
AshramAshram
Ashram

One morning at dawn everyone hiked up this mountain for the sunrise.
AshramAshram
Ashram

Not a bad way to start the day.
AshramAshram
Ashram

Then the long march home.
AshramAshram
Ashram

Instead of beers, (which were naturally prohibited, along with tobacco, coffee, meat, chocolate, and a host of other things), each night the cool kids hit the Health Hut for smoothies and fruit salads.
BackwatersBackwaters
Backwaters

Following 15 days at the ashram, along with a couple fellow yogis, I went to a place called the Backwaters, considered the Venice of India. These canals support whole communities of people who use boats as their transportation.
BackwatersBackwaters
Backwaters

Another very beautiful part of India.
BackwatersBackwaters
Backwaters

No rickshaws here.
BackwatersBackwaters
Backwaters

No subway either.
BackwatersBackwaters
Backwaters

I always wanted to be a ship captain. Or an architect.
BackwatersBackwaters
Backwaters

Yogis Marie-Claude from Quebec and Dave from Australia.
VaranasiVaranasi
Varanasi

I then flew from the south all the way back up north to the holy city of Varanasi. Quite a contrast from the gentle Backwaters or the serene ashram, dropping into loud dusty hectic Varanasi felt like my first day in India all over again.
VaranasiVaranasi
Varanasi

The ancient tight alleyways of Varanasi just intensify the Indian experience. Navigating people, bikes, motorcycles, carts, cows, dogs, dung, flies, and monkeys, I consider this place, "India to the max."
VaranasiVaranasi
Varanasi

Located on the River Ganges, Varanasi, formerly called Benares or Kashi, is a holy city famous for its ghats, or series of steps that lead down into the holy river. Considered one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, Hindu pilgrims from all over come here to bathe in the water or to cremate dead relatives.
VaranasiVaranasi
Varanasi

Over the right shoulder of this man you can see smoke rising from the dozen bodies that are being cremated at the Burning Ghat. (Out of respect you are not supposed to take pictures of the bodies.)
VaranasiVaranasi
Varanasi

At daybreak is when the ghats really come to life. The whole city comes down to pray, bathe, do laundry, swim, and congregate.
VaranasiVaranasi
Varanasi

In India, the River Ganges is called the "Ganga," or the "Mother Ganga." By our standards, it is toxic. It is loaded with chemical wastes, sewage, and the remains of humans and animals, but many locals seem to have developed some immunities. Unfazed by the hazards, up to 2 million people bathe in it every day.
Scenes From VaranasiScenes From Varanasi
Scenes From Varanasi

Women drying their saris.






Comments
Date: 29th June 2009

WOW
Ed- As always this was fascinating. I look forward to talking about all this with you in person when you are back in the states. In the meantime - since you read a bunch, can you recommend any books? I'm always in the market for new stuff. Keep it up and enjoy this leg of your trip.

From Blog: India
Date: 5th July 2009

India
That is just fabulous that you hang out with the kids playing crickets. It sounded like they were outcasts. I guess the caste system still exist in India to this extent. In my assessment of the policeman's behavior, he didn't want a foreigner to be around these "slumdogs" because your presence there elevates their status to a certain degree and he doesn't like that at all. Your stay at Sivananda Ashram down in Kerala came across as if you were living the life of a monk or an ascetic. You never did mention what the "purpose and significance of the more unusual rules" were. I am truly envious that you are able to sit in meditation without bodily pain. Sitting meditation is a method that can lead to enlightenment. Ponder on this comment "Amidst a thought, there is no thought."

From Blog: India
Date: 8th July 2009

bloody ripper mate.
love your story mate, very entertaining (bollywood and the shirt) and informative (i didn't know monkeys through rocks when they fight). hope ya gunna right one about nepal and tibet, take it easy mate, happy travels

From Blog: India




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