Blogs from West Bengal, India, Asia - page 72

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Asia » India » West Bengal » Kolkata January 30th 2006

I dropped by Eden Gardens this morning, Calcutta's famous cricket ground, but was unable to get in. It looks more like a football stadium from the outside, and can apparently hold more than 90,000 fans. I than had an argument at the Post Office when trying to post a postcard, as the man at the Enquiries desk was trying to tell me that it was too big for the Rs 8 postage and should be Rs 15. I told him that I had already sent many postcards of exactly the same size for Rs 8 and they had arrived safely, but he was adamant. The GPO supposedly hides the site of the infamous Black Hole of Calcutta, though I couldn't see anything indicating that. I followed this up with some bureaucratic nonsense at the rail reservation ... read more
Eden Gardens cricket ground
Human traffic on the bridge
Two ways of getting across the river

Asia » India » West Bengal » Kolkata January 29th 2006

I discovered this morning that the wall-to-wall curtains in my room don't conceal wall-to-wall windows but in fact hide a wall-to-wall wall, with just a small opaque window above the A/C unit to let in some light. After breakfast, I found the cheapest Internet so far in India (a mere Rs 15 per hour). First port of call for the day was the Victoria Memorial, a large and imposing structure in white marble, set in groomed grounds on the east side of the Maidan. It was built at the beginning of the last century to commemorate Queen Victoria's death. Inside, there is now a museum containing exhibits and information about the development of Calcutta as a city, as well as Bengali cultural highlights. Though the architecture of the building contains both European and Moghul influences, it ... read more
The Maidan
Yellow cabs
Modes of transport

Asia » India » West Bengal » Kolkata January 28th 2006

Had another amusing rickshaw fare discussion this morning. I asked one of the hotel staff how much it should cost to get to NJP station (he said Rs 25), then he fetched a rickshaw, whose driver quoted Rs 40. I looked at the hotel guy, who studiously avoided my gaze. When I pressed him, he said that 40 was actually the right price. When I asked why he had said 25, he suddenly went deaf. On arriving on the platform at about 9:15AM, one of the train catering staff accosted me and asked whether I'd like a veg or non-veg lunch. I assumed from this that there was a meal included in the fare, so I was a tad surprised when, 5 minutes later, some dal, rice and a small spicy veg curry were delivered to ... read more

Asia » India » West Bengal » Darjeeling January 27th 2006

OK ....Varanasi was much better than expected...thank goodness....made two new friends ...a man from South Africa and a woman from Varanasi. Also, I have brought with me the affliction that the driver in Agra warned about .... although I stilll question as to how the varanasi-vengence would dare to come my way....in all my years of travel and eating everything anywhere this is the first time. I must confess I have gone the way of emodium only because of the prospect of continued long train rides and upperbunk reservations (not my choice). Who knew all the trains would be full, that it was winter vacation for the kids and that the man we hired to reserve our seats could do no better. He has prbably done very well just getting us on a train. A woman ... read more

Asia » India » West Bengal » Siliguri January 27th 2006

I had originally wanted to go either to or from Darjeeling via the Toy Train, however my enthusiasm for this had waned, having heard tales of how frequently the 6 hour journey could become 8 or 9 hours, plus the route it follows is so close to the road that the views aren't much different. So instead I simply went to the station this morning and took a few photos. Later in the day, on my way back to Siliguri by Jeep, we passed the train coming up, maybe 6 hours into its journey - the passengers did not look as though they were still enjoying the experience. In order to be full of energy for the day ahead, I ordered chicken sausages in one of the cafes - and got 11 of the blighters. Though ... read more
Chowrasta, as seen from the hotel
Temple
My Jeep from Darj to Siliguri

Asia » India » West Bengal » Kolkata January 27th 2006

Geo: 28.5713, 75.4743After our impromptu detour through the Moslem village in the Shekhawati desert, we continued our semi-planned itinerary and took the train to the "Blue City" of Jodhpur, so named because the color signified the residence of a Brahmin - a high ranking class in India's caste system. Founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, Jodhpur grew rich by its proximity to the Silk Road where opium, dates, silk, etc. were taken by camel train westward from Central Asia to the Middle East and Europe. Our own journey ended at the Saji Sanwri guesthouse - a 250 year-old haveli which was buried in the a labyrinth of twisty one-camel-wide streets. Four stories tall with a rooftop garden that has a fabulous view of the the magnificent fort of Mehrangarh, one could feel the history of the ... read more
02 Kingfisher at Keoladeo National Park
03 Parakeets at Keoladeo NP
04 Snakebird Catching Fish at Keoladeo NP

Asia » India » West Bengal » Darjeeling January 26th 2006

In order to get to Tiger Hill for sunrise, it was necessary to get up just after 4AM and then troop down to Clubside (about 10 minutes away) to find a Jeep with a spare seat for the journey. The sky was full of stars, which boded well. No problems finding a Jeep, though the legroom situation wasn't particularly great. I found myself sitting next to an Irish guy, Patrick, who was in the last couple of weeks of a 9 month round-the-world odyssey. Though 4AM seemed early enough to be getting up at, there were clearly many people who had been up even earlier, as Tiger Hill was already swarming with both Jeeps and people when we arrived. On the way up, we had had to make a decision as to whether we wanted to ... read more
Later in the day
Tea estate
Darjeeling hillside

Asia » India » West Bengal » Kolkata January 26th 2006

Am busy, busy, busy again... Staying about 35min walk from Sudder Street (where all tourists are). I am actually staying in the house where Mother Teresa stayed on her first visit to Calcutta. Just moved in there today (Thursday) as a girl from UK is going home tonight and she told me about it. It's much cheaper and it's with an Indian family which is cool. I have to walk through their sitting room to my room but it's great that I have use of that and the kitchen too. May as well live with them for a true experience! 2 French guys in same house. Anyway, up until now I have been experiencing the 'true' India which I couldn't enjoy the last time due to sweating constantly and always running for shade, aswell as working ... read more

Asia » India » West Bengal » Darjeeling January 25th 2006

I was out of my room by 7AM in order to try to catch some mountains unawares, and I was rewarded with a faint sliver of Kanchenjunga off to the north. Though the majority of the mountain was hidden by cloud/mist, there was enough visible to notice that i) it's damn big, and ii) there's snow clinging to the peaks. On a completely clear day, it must look breathtaking. Darjeeling is quite high up, at 2,100m, but K is 4 times that height. As the morning went on, the view improved though still not to the point where I could get a decent photo. At around midday, it started getting mistier again so I gave up on K and ventured down to Darjeeling Zoo. The place wasn't as grim as I imagined it would be, and ... read more
Sky, mountains, tree
Red panda on the prowl
The Mall

Asia » India » West Bengal » Darjeeling January 24th 2006

Unfortunately it was too late to reserve a seat on today's Toy Train up to Darjeeling, so I was told the best thing to do would be to buy a second class ticket and then attempt to upgrade on the train. Since I didn't fancy the prospect of potentially having to spend the entire 6-9 hour journey jammed into second class, I decided to give it a miss and get a shared Jeep instead. The shared Jeeps wait around until they are completely full, which meant a 30 minute wait until we departed. This required cramming into the seats 4 foreigners, 2 burly Nepalis, 2 chubby Indians, and 2 people of the size that the Jeep was originally designed for. One of the Nepali guys, on seeing my discomfort in the seat I'd been allocated, generously ... read more
Darjeeling hillside
Chowrasta, including bandstand
The Mall leading off to the right




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