The Ancient Hindu City Of Varanasi

So, first impressions of India were not good! After a long bus ride to Sonauli, we decided to get another bus straight to Gorakhpur so that we would be able to get the train to Varanasi the following morning. As we crossed the border, i'm not sure what we were expecting but what we found was very similar to parts of Nepal. Dirty, crowded and pushy! We were shown in the direction of the bus we needed and after a lot of confusion concerning currency and swapping from one bus to another, we were on our way. We arrived in the dark and with no Indian currency (we hadn't changed any as we thought it would be readily available) and started looking for somewhere to stay. We decided in the end to go to a place recomended in the guide book. It was nothing special - there was blood on the walls and the sheets from where people had squashed bugs and things, but exhausted we accepted the room and collapsed for a few hours sleep.

Our 5am wake up call did not arrive but luckily I woke at 5.20 and we rushed off to the train station, arriving just in time! It was very confusing trying to get a ticket and they seemed determined that we should go second class sleeper, even though we wanted first class. Time running out we accepted what we thought were the right tickets and ran off for the train. We got there just as the train was leaving and in our panic to get on, we accidentally jumped in to the guards cabin! He was very kind about it and let us stay until the next station (although his perverse staring at me did get frustrating!!) He told us we had sleeper class tickets - very confusing! So, we changed, got on to second class sleeper and saw a giant mouse running around the quiet carrage under our seats! The journey was full of interruptions, from Indian transvestites who kept clapping their hands at Jed, to tea sales men, paper sellers and monkey nut sellers, as well as the usual beggars! We had several arguments with the conductor who kept trying to get us to pay a fine, and as I was very tired and irritable, there was no way he was going to win! We also saw an elephant from the window, carrying some stuff along the road - it was quite surreal!

So, we arrived in Varanasi, very relieved and got a tuk-tuk to our guest house! What an adventure! We wandered down to the Ghats which are very interesting indeed! There we saw monkeys, beggars, meditation tents, naked men and a burning ceromony. People were bathing in the river, washing clothes and swimming, all just 100 metres or so from the ceromony! I thought I would be more taken aback by seeing a dead body on fire, but it just seems normal here. There is a dense smog/smoke throughout some areas and an unbearable stench of urine in others! It takes some getting used to!

After the gentle, placid yaks in Nepal, I have grown used to their presence and just walk by them. Unfortunately, the yaks here seem a bit cross, and as I strolled along the steps past one, he decided to put up a fight and give me a good ramming! I screamed, caused a scene and ran away, and have been wary of them ever since!

I have found Varanasi fascinating as there is so much to see and it is such a different way of life here. From extreme poverty to devout religion it is all interesting and should be seen. Tommorow, we depart on the night train to Agra! Sam xxx


Varanasi is the city of light, founded by Shiva and has been at the centre of the Hindu faith since the sixth century BC. It is said to be one of the holiest of crossing places where devotees can access the divine and gods can come down to earth in various forms. Anyone who dies here attains instant enlightenment and as such many come to live out their final days. It is certainly a deeply spiritual place, an insane mix of religion, culture and harsh reality.

It was a long road here as we first took an 8 hour bus, then a 3 hour bus, a cycle rickshaw, a 7 hour train journey, an autorickshaw or tuk tuk and finally a brisk 5 min walk through the crowded alleyways.

We reached our hostel in Varanasi in the scorching afternoon heat and through the usual pant wetting, traffic dodging ride from the station. It is a comfortable place to be with everything made easy for travellers. Money changing, laundry service, ticket booking, refreshments and clean rooms.

We have had plenty of time to explore the maze of alleyways in the old town and the numerous Ghats or stone steps that line the mighty Ganges river. A walk anywhere here is always an intense experience. All of your senses are simultaneously assaulted. Varanasi is a filthy place. Smells of animal waste, exhaust fumes, burning objects, cooking and flowers and spices make fresh air a precious commodity. Beggars, scammers and salesman approach from all angles with various opening lines. I had started off trying to politely decline but have ended up having to employ one of two tactics. Either completely ignoring them or repeating the word no until they melt back into the crowds. The sound of drums from rituals fill the air and car horns and voices fill your head. There is little peace and quiet here except at the riverside after you dismiss the boat trip merchants.

We have seen many things. From monkeys either hopping from shop roofs or chained to railings for entertainment, to cattle walking amongst the crowded streets. Snake charmers, bathers, religious practices and public funerals at the riverside. There is an openess towards death here that you don't see in England. Not necessarily a bad thing I don't think.

Probably the nicest way to see it all is by boat from the river as you can relax away from the hassle of touts.

Jed

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Part of trip: Asia

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