Iconic Monument

From Jodhpur I took an overnight train east to Agra to visit that most iconic of Indian monuments, the Taj Mahal. It was going to be a couple of long days now as my time in India drew to a close. We left Jodhpur at 19:30 and I settled into my top berth in 3AC class (three bunk beds with air conditioning). The good thing about the top berth is that you can lie down whenever you please as the lower two bunks are used as seats during the day. I didn't sleep very well, but then I rarely do on these journeys. We arrived in Agra just after sunrise and after stowing my larger pack in the cloakroom at the train station, I climbed aboard an autorickshaw + guide who would show me the sites in Agra.

First we went to the rear end of the Taj across the river. My guide told me that he lived quite close by and each morning when he woke up he climbed on to his roof and checked to see that the Taj was still there, then says a prayer of thanks - this afterall is how he makes a living. On this side of the river bank you can see the ruins of the foundations of a second Taj that was started but never completed - something about the son putting his father in jail and taking the throne in his place for fear that building another Taj Mahal would bankrupt the state. After this stop we were off to the "Baby Taj" (or Itimad-ud-Daulah if you want the proper name), a monument that predates the Taj Mahal built as a tomb and memorial to an Empress's parents. Despite its diminutive stature it is a beautiful building and I guess the Taj took some of its inspiration from this building. The walls are covered in inlaid marble and screen windows and inside the ceilings are decorated with gold. Some areas have plaster paintings along the walls although these have seen better days. There were also artisans working around the courtyard performing restoration work, carefully carving new stones to replace ones that had been removed using the same techniques that would have been used originally. Next on the Agra tour agenda was the Agra Fort. Not as impressive as some of the other forts I've visited in India but an interesting visit nonetheless. Some parts of the fort are still occupied by the Indian military so these areas are off limits to tourists. There was a cheeky monkey inside the fort's mosque who bared his fangs at me - perhaps I'd interrupted his prayers.

Next we went to a craft shop whose employees manufactured marble wares (like table tops, drink coasters, boxes and plates). It was quite fascinating watching them work and being told how each piece was prepared. Seeing the amount of work that went into the inlay work would give me a new appreciation for the effort it must have taken to build the Taj Mahal. After a stop for lunch it was time for the main event - a visit to the Taj Mahal. There was a long queue to get in as security measures meant that every person entering the complex had to have a full body search.
"What is this?" asked the guard. "A wallet," I replied. "Oh, what it this?" he asked again. "A watch," I replied. "Oh, okay you can come through now." Phew, what a relief, it was so hot standing in the line in the afternoon sun I'd already finished the "free" bottle of water they'd given me with my entrance ticket. Was the wait worth it? Definately! These old rulers of India had style, and seemingly endless wealth. The complex took 22 years to complete and it looks as good now as it did when it was new thanks to continuous restoration over the last few years. You enter the main courtyard through an enormous sandstone gate topped with 22 white turrets. As you pass through the arch you see, on its white marble platform, the Taj Mahal. The building is a masterpiece with perfect symmetry from every angle. I'm again unprepared for the scale of the building - it's much bigger than I imagined. The now familiar Mugal architecture with large courtyards and fountains I've seen elsewhere in India has culminated in this awesome structure. The walls are inlaid with large semi-precious stones imported from around the world and inside the tomb large screens decorated with floral patterns, each carved from a single piece of marble, surround the replica coffins (the real ones are in the basement and off limits to tourists).

I'm really glad I came to see the Taj Mahal. You tend to hear so much about this monument that you worry that it will be a let down when you finally see it. My only regret is that I didn't spend more time there, but I was concerned about my driver waiting for me to return. With the main event over it was time to head back to Delhi to connect with my flight out of India. A cheap motel room provided a much needed shower then back to the train station to catch the evening train. Three hours later and I was back in Delhi. After searching for ages for a taxi to take me to the airport, I accepted a ride from an autorickshaw driver. My instincts told me that it was too far for a journey on a rickshaw but I had no choice, there just weren't any taxis near the train station. My instincts were correct and half way to the airport it started to rain. I managed to stack my bags in the middle of the rickshaw cabin to avoid the worst of the rain but one half of me still got soaked. India wasn't going to let me get away that easily. Anyway, at least I was at the airport.

So my time in India is over. It's been a whirlwind of events, this place really assaults your senses. I thought that I had prepared myself for India but it was still a real shock when I first arrived and I can't honestly say that feeling has dissipated much. India has some spectacular sites; huge forts, beautiful palaces, bizarre temples and colourful people. But these are the jewels in a very weathered crown. You hear about poverty in India, you may even see some of the problems on TV but somehow whenever you put a frame around these things they lose something. It feels distant, unreal like some run-of-the-mill movie. I don't have the answers to India's troubles but I hope that somebody does. You come to India to see something different and on that count you certainly get your fair share. Now that I've been there, and as I recall my experiences I actually find myself eager to return (but not too soon). There is still so much of the continent that I could explore and now that I know what to expect, I feel more confident about going back.

---

---