A journey through North India

A journey through North India

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It came to me that the time for my journey through India had come during spring 2007. The winds that made me to set sail where many. Some were real echos, some fake whispers.
As a sailor, always listening to the winds and sounds of the seas, I did draft on my maps the passes that were to travel by.

I have discovered a country, different people and a.... culture.

All three together is what Tourism Office calls « Incredible India »

This is the complete "walkthrough"

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Lets start with the « thanks to » stuff:

Qatar airways,
Atlanta travels,
India Railways and Associates,

C, D GajD,The Volks, Mrs King, Mr Lion, Yam, Elle And surfers Hill and Rock
(names have been changed to protect the innocent.)
They have made my trip more interesting.

A special thanks to:

The caring lady at the tourist quota desk at Victoria Terminus in Mumbai who booked all my train tickets in a go on my first day in India. She remembered me and my name even a month after that first day.

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Ways & Means

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Sleeper Class Coaches:

Like camels are set for the desert, Sleeper Class are made for traveling through India. Unlike in AC classes, you benefit from true colors, smells, temperature while crossing the country. This is also the place to meet the Indian Middle Class and have a good informative talk.


Rickshaws:

Worldknown Indian transurban transport. Never felt comfy using those. Many reasons to that.

Buses:

Popular and sometimes crowdy but worth it when the ticket controller speaks tiny english or (better) you speak tiny Indy.


Taxis, Auto Rickshaws, Vikrams:

No comment on those, Taxidrivers are the same people everywhere.
Vikrams may be fun for Back Packers groups though.

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A journey through North India

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The 18th : MUMBAI

Mumbai at 5 AM is already challenging, even from a prepaid and shared cab rushing to the city. Mumbai is already busy at 5 AM and it is early time for a first cultural chock. That is Mumbai the big. My taxi speeds to the City targeting the Fort area in a dense already smoky and steamy air.

Later, at Victoria terminus, the bones of my trip (train tickets) through the country have been mended. I already know that my time in West Bengale will be far shorter than expected. Anyway, that is part of the game, the adventure saltz.

It is 10 AM and I have my first Indian Massala Chai.

My first idea was to reach the Gate of India and then go to Elephanta. I don t feel like having an other cab. I know I am going to come back for a week about Dilwali.

The strange Bloke I met at the Airport and shared the cab with wants to « foot loose » in the area. Nothing against that, so we hit the road, blindtaste. I don't remember the streets'name and the places we have been through but we have walked from VT to Mumbai Central asking our way from time to time. North Mumbai is arsh but worth to see.

It took us some two hours to get up there. Slow walk. We have passed by the Royal Opera House. This place was real astonishment to me. That should have been a great place sometime.

I was exhausted. The Sleeper Class waiting room at Mumbai Central has large fans and long chairs. I also discovered there what is Indian style bathroom and toilets.

The Bloke gone (we had absolutely not the same expectations, but his name freaked me out in some unexpected ways too). I wait for my train, sleepy.

The Mumbai Jaipur Super Express platform is announced. My brain is now on slow motion. My coach, my seat. I fasten my bag and lock it. I will wake up in Jaipur tomorrow.

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The 19th: JAIPUR

Jaipur is an absolute touristic cliche. Walking those streets for a day up to Hawamahal will bring you all the vernis you expect as a tourist. I will make it short, I had enough from Jaipur for a lifetime.

I get quickly on board of the Jaipur-Gwalior Intercity

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The 20th: GWALIOR

During my trip to Gwalior, I had my first real talk with an Indian woman. She is a teacher in History and to meet a foreigner like me on an Intercity is kind a surprise to her. She is an open minded person (not western type), is married and has a young daughter who looks after her coming back from the college she teaches at every working day.
Talking with her was a peacefull moment of cultural enrichment.

Once in Gwalior, my step led me to the two key spots that made me stop in there. The Tibetan Refugee Whool Market and of course the Fort.
I had no luck with the Tibetans that day and so kept walking to the Fort. The entry to the fort is a bit tricky for non residents. After ways up and down in Gwalior, a stop in the local Devi Temple where I was invited to share the lunch of Devi's Safrans and being the local attraction of the day for most of the kids, I started to walk up to the Fort, the Gurdwara and the Jaïn Statues I am looking for.

My first contact with Sikhism took place there, close to the Gurdwara « Reservoir ». My tired feet freshly bathed in a pool, my head covered with safran piece of cloth. This Gurudwara is so peacefull, so silent. After a two hours walk, your body aspiring for peace may find here some answers. I may have stayed there honestly in the cool shadows of the temple. But I was not ready to do so.

The Fort is a real architectural surprise. It is so different from what I have seen so far. The inserts in blues and turquoises makes the place so specific. It is hard to describe. A must see. I don't know if it is unic but it s different.

And then Jaïn Statues: the real purpose for my trip to Gwalior.

The Amritsar Express will take me to New Delhi. (Thinking about it, looks high on Sikhism)

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The 21rst: NEW DELHI

New Delhi at 5 AM is as busy as Mumbai is but there is something different in the air. The atmosphere in Delhi is ..dry.., hot and dry. By 8 AM, I was set and ready to go. Old Delhi streets were there already noisy and busy.
Ajmeri Gate, Chawri Bazar, Sitaram Bazar and then Jama Masjid, Netaji Subhash Park were to lead me to the Red Fort.
I don 't know what was the religious buzz but the entire Fort area was packed and it looked like a Fun Park has been established there. Well,it was a bit too much for me.
Stepped back to Chandni Chowk and made a stop at the Gurdwara (to buy some books, to learn more about the theology in Sikhism.) I gazed in Old Delhi up to 4 PM.

It s only when I reached my room that I realized me messing up my plans. That day was devoted to the museum area (we were then on Sunday). Tomorrow, the museum will be closed.

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The 22nd: NEW DELHI

After visiting the Old Delhi, I was ready to face the New.

First, by 7 AM the Connaught Place is peacefull and far from its beezy buzy evenings. Connaught is the place were to shop or just be and be seen. It s like our Champs, Oxford st or 5th. Western Ready Made shops to make you look like your favorite Western(ized) Idole.

To walk from the New Delhi station to Connaught can be tough, really.

Once on Janpath, your steps will pass by the most classy hotels and business towers in India and will lead you to the « Closed Museum ». On Rajpath, On the left the India Gate. On the right, government plazza.

A note on the India Gate. The Name of my country shows there. I am not sure it is to remember peacefull moments but I will mark here my respect to the Indian Republic to keep such memories in the red stone of the Arc.
From the Arc to the Rashtrapati Bhavan, from the Parliament to the Laxmi Narayan. I will salute quickly all these government employees who worried about helping me to find my way in a perfect english. Strangely, I almost felt like home. Hope all Indian citizens will benefit from this high education and standard soon.

I regret just not to have found the strength to go and visit the Lotus Temple.

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The 23rd: Missing my train.

5 minutes are enough to miss a train. It happens, but makes everything goes wrong. Next train to Haridwar is mid afternoon. I will loose a day in Haridwar.
Anyway, the museum is open and I rush for it.
New Delhi National Museum is great for statues and miniatures. I am sorry that manuscrit section was closed. I am drown to Gupta statues art. That is certain.

I am on time for the DDN Janshtbdi

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The 24rd: HARIDWAR

On my way to Haridwar, I have met C. C is an european back packer, traveling on her own. She has corrosive sens of humour and franck like ...(who cares). We decided to share our ressources to find a
place to stay quick upon our arrival in Haridwar.
Sharing the life of C during 24 hours in India was quiet an experience. Oh! I forgort to describe C. 5'6, venician blond (almost red) with grey/green eyes. So, let's say that she is exotic to most Indians. I have learned a lot about Indians on a single day.

C where ever you are I hope evrything went OK for you. My best wishes.

In haridwar, we have visited the Devi temple above the city. There, we paid devotion to Devi, Durga, Shiva and even Anuman. Looks like tourists are good for gods.

Then we went to the river Ganga, up to the Har ki Pari and a bit further to the great shiva statue.

In the evening, said bye to C and went for my train to Lucknow.The DDN BSB Express. (LOL.)

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The 25th: LUCKNOW

Train trips are always open source to unexpected experiences. This trip to Lucknow was an experience.

I came to Lucknow for it s Museum first and for the perfum and architecture. Lucknow is not a touristic plazza so, people are nicer, more caring than usual.

The museum is not that big and impressive I thought it would. I keep the souvenir of a really good Dancing Ganesha and two jaïn statues. The museum is inside the Zoo so paid my visit to the fauna there. The zoo is a bit old and the way it is organized shows. It is also really crowdy.

I went for books to lure the time out and found real pieces of work that helped me to point out my misunderstanding.

The Kashi V Express took me away.

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The 26th: VANARASI

Varanasi is known for the ghats. Place where the remainings of Hindus meet Ganga. Funerals are always impressive to me. The one I have seen there a same.

By mid afternoon, I have seen a ceremony dedicated to Durga. A statue of the goddess was brought to the river and sent afloat. I was confirmed there that religion is a matter of practices.

Evening ceremonies to Ganga are impressive in Varanasi. It s a bit too touristic for me. I was not on a boat. Symbolics are really strong here. The water, the fire and the hornshells.

The trivial thing was to keep my word. I have been walking the entire place up and down looking for a gaya ghat. Let a message on Gay and Rana ghats. Both under red stones.

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The 27th: SARNATH

Sarnath around 8 AM is a peacefull place. No horns, no motors but birds and wind in the trees. Sarnath is a birth place. Buddhism birth place. Well I can understand that.
The visit of the ruins of the monasteries and of the Stuppas may be quiet disapointing but the Museum is a marvel.The head of the Ashokar Pilar and the corolla are the most commented, but, as far as I am concerned, all my attention went to a meditating Budha. It was a fantastic experience. Great piece of art.

Went back to Varanasi via bus to get the ASR DBRT express.

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The 28th: On a late late late train to New Jalpaiguri

In Varanasi, I knew that my way to Darjeeling was going to be hard but not that much. First, my seats were not confirmed. So I knew that I was going to sleep against a door somewhere. Second, the train was late. 5 hours late in Varanasi. This meant half a day off my time in Darjeeling when I got on board. My mood was smooth thought. I shared most of my waiting time with a very nice german family trying to reach Darjeeling too (on a higher standard.)
On board, I managed to seat on the floor of a SL coach, close to the lavatories. Gosh! what a « nice » time to have. Hardly slept an hour or so.
By the morning, the train had an extra hour and a half late. By 11 AM, the guys of the pantry car invited me to join them. I really felt uncertain but I was so tired. They obviously took me for an American citizen and where looking for sponsorship or dollars. What a disappointment I must have been to them.Even presents were tricky that day.
Sharing the life of these workers is worth the experience even thought some western concepts must be forgotten.
We reached NJP by the end of the day. Some 8 to 9 hours late. Lost a day in Darjeeling.
Got a jeep from Siliguri by 6 or 7 PM.
Rushed for an Hotel by 10 PM and went for a supper then.

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The 29th: DARJEELING

Woke up by 6 AM and went for the Darjeeling Health Walk. The air, the silence, the early people going to work, to class or to temple for morning devotions, and then the Mountain. When I woke up it was just white cones on a still dark blue sky. Now its flanks shine in shades from deep blue to purple. The first time I face a full size (3rd in size) Himalayan Mountain: the Kangchendjunga. From the valley came a wind full of a sentor I ignored all about: Tea plants. Since that morning, I knew I will go back there.
The rest of my day in Darjeeling is a complete frenzy. Rushing for tea estates, the zoo and its tigers and leopards, the Mountainering Institute and shopping. It is already time for me to get down. I feel bad but that s a part of my trip too.
Down to NJP, I am on waiting list for Darjeeling mail (number 192 on the list.) I will spend the night on my bag again. I have some experience now.

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The 30th: KOLKATA

This time no delay to arrival but.....Kolkata was on strike.
I am going to walk for a while. I went down to Park St. Doing so, I passed by Mother Theresa House and even had the time to meet a volunteer working there. From there, I walked up to the Museum and found it on strike too. Tired of having to deal with my lugages, I decided to head to Howrah Station and get the lock room.
Took the famous Howrah bridge and reached the Station.
From there, I went to the temple of the most exotic godess to westerners:Kali. To worship death is somehow strange to westerners. Death is one of our taboo. So that was to be seen. Just to feel the mood. Well,there was no dark clouds, chilly winds and screams when I got there. Just a temple.

Boarded Howrah Puri Express that same night.

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The 31st: BHUBANESWAR

Bhubaneswar appeared crowded to me that morning. All the hotels on my list were packed. Lucky, I passed by one from which a group was leaving. All fresh and new, I headed to my favorite watering hole: The Museum.
Orissa State Museum is a nice place. The collection of statues is one of the most interesting to see.
The rest of museum is somehow conventional. The manuscript's room was closed there too.

From the Museum, the walk to Old Bhubaneswar goes on a straight line. A line I will walk back and forth. Old bhubaneswar is a strange maze of old and new buildings that sometimes completely circles temples of old, wells, lakes and ghats. It is worth a walk. The disappointment comes when upon entering Lingaraj Mandir. Tourists are not allowed. Ok, I had a nice walk anyway.

That evening, tired, I didnot go out. Stayed in my room watching the News and Bollywood on TV (selected the classic channel.) That's a piece of entertainment.

Took an intercity train to Puri.

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The 1st: PURI

Once my stuff locked in my hotel room, I rushed for .... The Sea. Gosh, I am facing the Gulf of Bengal. On the other side: thailand I guess. The shore is of dark sand and quite weavy. Take my shoes off and had a walk. I decided to walk up the beach but an unexpected waterway made me look for the streets and a bridge.
Puri is building high speed on the sea front. I guess that the city will turn in some kind of a riviera one day. Brand new hotels full of touristic gadgets are now hiding the sea from the streets. That s the way it goes.

All the way to the Jagannath Mandir is paved with shops. Fabrics and linen shops are the most impressive. Looks the right place for shopping but didn t feel like going on Sarhi fashion.The disappointment again. Tourists are not allowed in the Jagannath . Ok, I didn 't feel like going to the library (a second floor shop known to all tourists books.) The walls are too high too have an idea of how nice the place is. Bha.

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The 2nd: KONARK

Took a bus to get there. The location is nice and the weather was fine. It was still early in the morning when I got there. It seemed to me that the most important thing to see about Konark was the stone wheel that is represented in all the souvenir shops. After my visit to the temple, well, I guess it is the funniest thing about Konark.

The temple is really nice and impressive. It is surrounded by carved stone wheels so that the temple looks like ready for a go. But the rest of the statues took much of my attention. Felt like some french guy had a contract there when the temple was built. Talked to me much. Really.

The temple is surrounded by white flowering trees who gives the area some extra holly thing I can't explain. Was worth to see even thought it is sad that the corum of the temple has been sealed. My twisted french mind got lost in « conjectures ».

The Puri ADI Express took me to Nagpur.

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The 3rd: NAGPUR

I paid a visit to Nagpur to salute industrial India. Nagpur has nothing for tourists and that s good sometimes.
I have met lot of students and young businessmen there. Nothing will come for me out of it but it is really interresting to know what their expectations are.

The Shalimar LTT Express to Jalgaon

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The 5th: AURANGABAD-ELLORA Caves

The Shalimar was late too so that I arrived in Jalgaon by 3AM. Slept in the Sleeper Class waiting room up to 6 or 7 AM. Kind of an experience. And then, found a bus to Aurangabad. I got an hotel close to the bus station (near the Botanic Garden.) By 11 Am I was on my way to Ellora Caves (#16.)

Ellora caves is a huge site to visit. So, better plan a day than half a day. I prefer not to write to much. I really like the buddhist ten. The Indra group, the Ganesha group are impressive too. One of the best but hard to access is the one close to the waterfall (#29.)

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The 6th: JALGAON

My first draft was to find housing around Ajanta. So, I did stop by Ajanta on the bus line to Jalgaon. After two hours or so, I decided that the prices requested for vacancies where far too high. I did went back to jalgaon. Lucky, I have found a dormitory room at the station. I passed the afternoon in Jalgaon and had the unexpected pleasure to find a Tibetan Whool Market there. Purchased two chawls and had a great time talking with the peole there about all the buddhist places I had the luck to visit.

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The 7th: AJANTA Caves

How peacefull it was to walk early morning to the caves. No official buses yet. The silence, the sound of the tiny river that goes there, the sudden rush of monkeys in trees nearby and there, standing on the safegard of a bridge, a kingfisher all colors shining on.
I was in a perfect state of mind when I entered cave one. There, I will say that time did collapse on itself.
Everything in these caves should warn you about the time passing by. How times do erase your work, your thought and your art.
But the time changed for me in Ajanta.It really lasts.
Even in the least preserved caves, your eyes will, if you look around, catch the painting of a flower, a face looking at you even when you re not there.
It is hard to explain how I feel about Ajanta. To make it simple, I will say that it is the only touristic place in India that made me forget about all the business around.

Back to Jalgaon in the evening, I am about to take my last train in India, the Vidarbha Express.

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The 8th to the 14th : MUMBAI

To be honest, it was a shock. Mumbai had almost eaten all my peace when I set foot on the platform. I was really about to take the next train to nowhere. But I had stuff to do, so, grabed my bag and made my way from Victoria Terminus to Colaba. Got to the Salvation Army Red Shield. Lucky, there are vacancies.That s good news, I won't get to much on the survival stuff in Mumbai.
The Red shield is the Hide Out for the Back Packer United. From the freshly arrived to the almost Six months Desperados, they are here. I have met there Elle, Two Surfers (Hill and Rock) and Lyam.
Elle is from New Zealand. She has turned all her businesses down and plan to travel a year or two.
Hill and Rock are from America. They are round the globe. Freshly arrived in India, they should become TV superstars. Yam is American too. Round the Globe too. But, is a west goer. He should be by the middle of Africa by now.

Once settled, my steps led me to the « Gate of India ». Impressive building, like most arcs are. From then, the path up the « Prince of Wales » Museum.
It is certainly the best museum to see in India even thought that the sculptures here are poor. The Tibetan art, the miniatures, the craftmanships is really at the upmost here.
It was also a nice place to meet people. I met there Mr Lion. He was there with his sketch book. After a few minutes, I really got impressed. This guy is mastering in Arts. He has excellent knowledge of European arts. He is found of Géricault. I am pleased to meet somebody like him in India today. Someone not going on business in the uttermost business area.
Sirit Sacar Mr Lion.

Tonight is Dilwali Night. The New Year. Lights and Fire Crackers for most of it. Some shops have their doorstep decorated with colored sand or chalk. All prayers to Laxmi, the goddess of wealth.

In the late morning, next day, I decided to go to Elephanta. Took the boat from the « Gate to India ». It si an hour trip through the Indian Navy, Tankers and Gaz ships. Off the boat, a misery facsimile toy train offers the tourists to avoid a five minutes walk to the village. A tourist tax to enter and the an other five minutes up through souvenirs stands and their salespersons. Upthere, the fee for foreigner to enter the cave itself.

Right, the Shiva Trimurti is impressive. But that is the only thing to see there. After Ajanta and Ellora, I feel really frustrated.

The same thing on the way back.
I make up my mind by mid afternoon to go North to the Maha Laxmi. Looks appropriate on a Dilwali day. Mislead myself and was only half distance to it when dawn came. Went back to colaba.

My third day should not be a remake of previous one. Got my list, went to Prince of Wales bus terminus. Asked in poor Hindi and was answered in poor english. Bus 132. Up I go. Bus is really convenient to visit Mumbai. Down right on the queueing to Maha Laxmi temple. The queue was a two heads snake. One female, the other male. The snake goes quick to the temple and within half and hour I had paid my devotion to Laxmi. I was given a flower and sweets. Kept a part of the flower in an « herbier ».

From there, at small distance, is Haji Ali. The nicest mosquée I have seen. Surrounded by the Indien Ocean (Lol.) The Prayer room is a small, banner covered square building about 20 meters long. The sea front being used as a meditation area.

From there a new bus took me to Victoria garden. A zoo. A ninety twenties zoo. The visit is to see sad fauna. Had pleasure only in watching the birds there.

Back to Colaba, I do pass my first phone calls. Nada, zinch, Niente.

My fourth day in Mumbai was a visit to Chowks around Mohamed Ali Road. Lyam came with me. Problem: we were on sunday and many shops were closed. That was a nice walk anyway. I had the strange experience of being surrounded by a group of street kids (20 some.) I use to distribute sweets to begging kids. I didn't notice that the street next was packed with poor Mumbai citizen. In a sec, I was under siege. Grabbed a handfool of sweets and drop them on the floor and ran. Entered the closest opened shop to get them on the loose.

My fith day was dedicated to global cleaning and packing and data collecting (job ressources in India.)

The Sixth day, I got along with Elle and the two surfers for shoping. Went to the second hand bookstores near Flora Fountain for our surfers needed a guide book. Then to Victoria Terminal, for Elle wanted to buy her first train ticket. Amazing, the salesperson at tourist quota remembered me and my name.
From there we went to the Hanging gardens after having a ridiculous bus trip.
The hanging Gardens have a rather presomptuous name. Nothing hang there. Only the way they manage with the Bougainvillier may be a surprise to visitors.

We walked down to the beach and stayed there up to sunset. The beach is a must see. Human powered attractions compete with multi colored icecream shops. Our way back passed by the Marine Drive down to Colaba again.

Lyam was on his way to Africa that night.

My last day was a reminder how cautious one must be in India. I had difficulties at the Red Shield and had to manage once again with it. Spent the day in the hostel. I was already back in many ways. Had all my western clothes on. Talked with the surfers and Elle.Had diner together and did our best to find a Tv for watching their premium appearance on a TV show. We haven't been lucky that night. By 11 PM, I was off to the airport. Checked and cleared in at 3 AM. Took off by 5AM.

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I said good bye to a very good old fellow: my straw hat.
India was its last trip. I will have to find a new one.

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