Konark & Puri

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As most of my travel plans go…this too was a customized tour package with Heritage Tours, and the itinerary included temples and ruins in Bhubaneshwar, the Jagannatha Temple of Puri and the famous Sun Temple of Konark-a UNESCO World heritage site and a marvelous piece of fine Central Indian style of Temple architecture.
This was early January and the climate was superb! Temple ‘Shikharas’ arising as the fog evaporates…the ‘pandits’ dressed in their saffron robes walking out of a misty river …..and birds with some fellow languor mokeys disappearing into the tender sun-rays ….
Wow ! What more could a photographer ask for! This trip was a delight! I was almost out of my car window - peeping out, taking snaps of villages, green fields of ride and paddy…and reflections of coconut tress in the ponds near by…

The travel pan was Bhubaneshwar - Puri - Konark -back to B’war via Puri.
(Bhubaneshwar is the nearest domestic airport. Puri is at a distance of 3 hrs from here. Konark is around 45 minutes from Puri)
We flew in from Mumbai. The day started with some local temples in Bhubaneshwar. This included the Udaygiri caves, Brahmeshwar Temple, Mukteswar Temple, Parasurameswar Temple, Bhaskareshwar temple, Rajarani Temple and the Vaital Deul Temple.
Most of these shrines are around 1 km from each other and have the typical flavour of Orissan architecture.

Sharing some of my learning from the books and the guide……
Brahmeshwar Temple
The temple has a 3 m lingam enshrined in its sanctum. It is learned that it was built by Queen Kolavati, who got a linga enshrined, in her son's eighteen regnal year at Ekamra. The 11th century brahmeshwar temple with four smaller shrines at the corners, two enclosure walls, the inner one following the sanctuary in its panch ratha plan, and the tank on the southern side between the two, forms an attractive composition. As you enter through a gateway in the high enclosure wall you face a small cloth-covered image of Lakshmi. The sanctuary has a five fold vertical division in the bada; the pabhaga and the varandah have rich carvings. The lower section of the wall is ornamented alternately by khakhara mundis. The central niches of the corner khakhara mundis contain dikpalas, while those of the intermediary ones have mostly different forms of Shiva. Here you can as well see captivating poses such as slender maidens admiring themselves in mirrors and erotic couples. Like the Muktesvara Temple, this temple also has internal embellishments in the jagamohana showing infantry, cavalry, elephants and variety of themes including worship of linga, a preceptor delivering discourse and graceful female figures. The smaller subsidiary temples have same design and architectural elements; however their gandis are left plain.

Mukteswar Temple
An important landmark to the architectural development in Orissa, the Mukteswar Temple is often described as one of jewels of Orissa for its exquisite sculptures and elegant looks. The plan is now a full fledged five sectioned form, pancharatha and the platform or the pabhaga consists of five mouldings, as in later temples. The element still common with early temples like Parasuramesvara and Vaital Deul is the tryangabada, 3 fold horizontal division of the lower story. The new, more elaborate style has absence of dopichha lions, squat figures supporting the amla, the recessed sections but now rounded sharp edges and corners got predominant.

Parasurameswar Temple
Built in the 7th century, the Parasurameswar Temple is small but lavishly decorated. Enclosed within a compound wall, the deul, facing the West is a square towered, while the jagamohana, instead of being a stepped pyramid, is a rectangular structure with a terraced roof, sloping in two stages. The deul about 13 m high has no platform and is triratha on plan, a dominant style of the early periods. The temple typifies the stage of Saiva Pasupata Sect, illustrated by the frequent representation of Lakulisa. He is sculpted in Buddha-like form, with four disciples at his feet as shown on the last side of the tower, while on the West, above the relief of Nataraja, he looks like the meditating Buddha. The varandah has projecting moulding topped by a recessed frieze, demarcating bada from the gandi, a feature not found in later temples. The frieze has mostly amorous couples, separated by paneled jalis vidalas (a rampant lion, with head swung backwards, springing over a crouching elephant) at corners, a very typical symbol the beleaguered Buddhist faith.

Rajarani Temple
Set amidst the well maintained gardens, the 11th century Rajarani Temple is famous for its sculpted figures and the successive tiers of projections rising to form its 18 m tower. The accentuating miniature replicas of itself decorate the spire, reminiscent of the temples of Khajuraho. It has a square sanctuary and its interior and exterior surfaces are so recessed that it appears circular. The ornamental deul stands diagonal to the severely plain jagamohana. The highlight of the temple is the fine sculptures of dikpalas or guardians of the eight directions carved around the shrine.


Vaital Deul temple
One of the oldest temples (late 8th century), its striking feature is the shape of its sanctuary tower. The semi cylindrical shape of its roof, a leading example of khakhara order of temples, bears an affinity to the Dravidian gopuram of the South India temples. Vaital Deul boasts some figures, although executed in relief are however characterized by delicacy of features and perfect equipoise. The outer walls are encrusted with panels of Hindu deities mostly Shiva and his consort Parvati in her Shakti form, hunting processions, capturing of wild elephants and the occasional erotic couples. Another striking feature is temple's tantric associations, marked by eerie carvings in the sanctum and the image enshrined in the central niche, eight armed Chamunda, locally known as Kapalini, is the terrifying form of goddess Durga.

Udayagiri Caves @ Bhubaneshwar
One of the earliest of Jain rock-cut shelters, the caves of Udayagiri command a unique position in eastern India in the fields of history, rock-cut architecture, art and religion.
The records, found incised on the walls of some of these caves, furnish the supreme evidence of the existence of a powerful dynasty, the 'Chetis' (Chedis). They reveal that some time in the 1st century B.C. or slightly earlier, the rulers of the Cheti dynasty, who called themselves 'Mahameghavahanas', came into power in Kalinga and created this space.
Udaya meaning ‘Sunrise’ and Giri means ‘Hill/Mountain’. One will find caves at different levels of the hill. There are 18 caves in Udayagiri starting from the base of the hill itself. All the caves are numbered and many of them are also named. The main and the most attractive caves is situated at the base itself. Named as Rani Gumpha (‘Gumpha’ meaning Cave in local language), it is one of the few double storied caves in these hills. 'Rani Gumpha' or 'Queen Cave' is the largest cave and has gone under extensive repair work. The carvings on the wall generally depict scenes of celebration on king's victorious return. There are religious carving as well as scenes from the royal courts. Jain symbols are also found at many parts. Ganesh Gumpha which is situated directly above Rani Gumpha (The Queen’s Cave) is another major cave. The hall strongly resembles a Buddhist chaitya hall. The figures on the wall clearly show that they were once the worship halls for Jain monks. Other interesting cave is Bagh Gumpha (Tiger Cave) and Hathi Gumpha (Elephant Cave). The entrance to the Bagh Gumpha is carved in the shape of a tiger's open mouth and is visually quite splendid. Though Hathi Gumpha is not as appealing as others but it has great importance historically. A 17 line Brahmi inscription tells us about the expeditions and victories of King Kharavela.

Day 1 was pretty exhaustive, so we decided to treat ourselves…and ended up eating tons of ‘puchka’ (pani puri) on road-side stalls. It yumm and you shouldn’t miss it !

Day 2, we were on our way to Puri.
Our hotels was one of the 100s based by the beach…looking at the waves and the sunrise … There is also an endless series of road-side stalls selling sea-shells, pearls, jewelry and handicrafts. The market stays open till midnight (However all good boys and girls leave this place before it very dark). Mornings on the beach are equally exciting, Fishermen returning with a fresh catch and rowing back their wooden boats into the waves.

Puri is an ancient shrine, enshrining Krishna - Jagannath in the form of a wooden image. Also enshrined are wooden images of Balabhadra (Balarama) and Subhadra brother and sister of Krishna respectively. Interestingly, the Rig Veda refers to Purushottama in the form of a wooden image, prepared from a log of wood floating on the ocean. Puri is also referred to in the Bhrama purana.
The vast temple complex occupies an area of over 400000 square feet, and is bounded by a 20 feet high fortified wall. This complex contains about 120 temples and shrines. The shikhara of the Jagannath temple towers to a height of 192 feet. Structurally the temple has four chambers. The outermost is the Bhogmandir, the next is the Nata-mandir pillared hall for music and dance, the next is the Jagamohana - or the mandapa where devotees gather for worship and the last is the sanctum or the Deul enshrining the deities.

However, for a Photographer, it was all sad news. They don’t allow cameras, belts, purses, leather articles, money or luggage of any form with you when you enter. The entrance looked like an air-port security channel. What ever pictures we could take was from a platform outside the campus. Couldn’t catch the intricate carvings or the beauty in any form…
But we did enter the temple with our guide, walked around the temple for about 4 hours and saw every nook and corner of sculpting and history.

Day 3 kicked off with a lovely beach walk and some ginger-tea from a local stall and a foggy - misty sun on the horizon…then on our way to Konark…the most awaited and exciting shrine in our tour…
And in about 1 hour of driving along the marine line (with the sea by your side always..)…we reached Konark.

Some of my learning now….
Konark is also known as Konaditya. The name Konark is derived form the words Kona - Corner and Arka - Sun; it is situated on the north eastern corner of Puri or the Chakrakshetra. Konark is also known as Arkakshetra. This temple built in 1278 CE by the Ganga King Narasimha Deva is one of the grandest temples of India and was referred to as the Black Pagoda. The ruins of this temple were excavated in late 19th century.

The Konark temple is famous not only for its architectural splendor but also for the exquisite and profusion of sculptural work. The entire temple has been conceived as a chariot of the sun god with 24 wheels, each about 10 feet in diameter, with a set of spokes and elaborate carvings. Seven horses drag the temple. Two lions guard the entrance, crushing elephants. A flight of steps lead to the main entrance. The nata mandir in front of the Jagamohana is also intricately carved. Around the base of the temple, and up the walls and roof, are carvings in the erotic style. There are images of animals, foliage, men, warriors on horses and other interesting patterns. There are three images of the Sun God, positioned to catch the rays of the sun at dawn, noon and sunset
The temples of Orissa and Central India have their own distinct style, which began to resemble a range of mountains with columns of subsidiary halls also rising up towards the central column. The Konark Sun Temple belongs to the Central Indian style of Temple architecture, though it does not have tall shikharas of the later temples of Orissa and Central India.

We spent the entire day clicking ….some wide angles, some temple pictures and then each and every minute shape/sculpture by itself. I used Nikon D80 and Canon S5is…and my Sony DCR DVD Handy cam to take some clips.

As the Sun god bid us farewell and evening set in, the temple looked even more majestic and awesome in the colourful lights….a different flavour altogether.

Travel tips out of my own experience:
1.Try Orissan veg-food, its quite nice.
2.Do not give any tips to beggars outside temple sites (we learned that they do not beg out of poverty, but as a practice to serve the Almighty)
3.Books sold on roadside stalls may not be genuine.
4.Udaygiri Caves and Konark Temple had entrance passes, rest were free.
5.Be very very careful of how you conduct yourself at the Jagannath temple - dress simple (cover yourself well), don’t attempt to take pictures or use a mobile to click a snap.
6.Don’t fall prey to the 100s of young priests pulling you in and promising an easy entrance to the main temple, they may charge you a nice Rs.1000/- for nothing.
7.Shopping by the beach is not so expensive and you can collect some typical orissan sarees, quilts, embroidered bed covers/cushion covers, colourful cotton lamps etc. (Don’t buy the pearls, they r plastic)
8.Carry a tripod to experience and capture the light show at Konark.
9.I preferred wearing a slipper, than shoes throughout…since we were entering temples every 5 min.

An amazzzing learning experience ….

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