First 2 Days: Delhi

Hello One and All from Delhi, India! This is Naomi writing you with first impressions of India, which are hard to express. It is fascinating, devastatingly poor, dirty, crowded, and beautiful. Ryder and I got into Delhi around 7 at night, completely jet-lagged and worn out from about 35 hours of travel. Luckily Adrian, Ryder's brother, and his friend Rohit were at the airport to pick us up. Haggling with a rickshaw driver was happily averted, and Rohit and Adrian delivered us to Majnu-ka-Tilla, also known as the Tibetan Colony. It's here that the Tibetan refugees arrive from their home country and stay until they determine where they are going. All the guest houses are funded by monastaries and money paid for a place to stay goes to the Tibetan community one way or another. It is a very calm part of Delhi and a haven for those who aren't interested in being in the heart of unimaginable hustle-bustle associated with other parts of the city. We found a place to stay, which had clean beds and a private bathroom (basic as it was). Walking the "streets" (really just dirt alleyways with an occasional stepping stone) felt oddly comfortable, though heart wrenching with the poor and ill begging for money or food, some lepers, missing limbs, others just starving (there were literally people who had nothing besides skin and bone, it seemed miraculous that they could even stand). I can tell that this will be the greatest struggle for me; learning how to help those in need, and understanding that I cannot save these people, though I may help feed them for a day. Perhaps by the end of this trip, I will know better how to truly help those in need, in the meantime, we will continue to contemplate that very question.
Although we haven't done much (jet lag is a powerful beast), every little experience is visceral and raw. Walking the streets, buying chapati and chai for breakfast (totalling less than a dollar for both Ryder and I to eat and drink), being on the roads (if you have a faint heart, never, ever, ever, ever come to India and go on the roads, in a private car or a rickshaw...scary experience, but shockingly safe for such a chaotic mess). This evening we take an overnight train to Bodhgaya, further east of here, which is where the Buddha attained enlightenment. Ryder has been there and loves it; I'm looking forward to getting away from the city. I wish I could describe Delhi, but I think it goes beyond words. The picture included sort-of encapsulates the state of the city. It was taken from the rickshaw this morning on our ride to Rohit's place (where we are hanging out before catching the train), as is the picture of the mother holding the baby on the motorcycle. It's amazing how many people they squish onto those things! And none where helmets, and as you can see, they just hold the kids. Mom, it would make your heart stop!
I wish I had better words for this place, but alas, it is not easy. I hope that this entry gives you some idea of where we are and what it is like. We will add more soon, though last time Ryder was in Bodhgaya there was no internet access. Perhaps it's changed. If not, we will write from Varanasi, which I am told is a guaranteed, genuine, heart-of-India expperience! Sending love to all.....

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