There are no words to describe the last week of my life. I have never been in such an exciting, beautiful, enthralling place. Soul crushing poverty, dirt, smells, tastes, miles of slums interspersed with high rise apartment buildings, toothless rickshaw drivers sharing the road with sports cars, naked children defecating in front of a well lit modern bank, and everywhere the sights and sounds and smells of a city and people that are simultaneously undergoing rejuvenation and decline. Everwhere are women dressed in the darkest purples and blues and reds, with babies propped on small round hips. Open spaces are covered with people dressed in rags and blankets among a zoo of dogs, rats, sheep, cows, and of course, people. Sometimes I feel like I have awoken to the post-apocalypse. The poverty is staggering, and as
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