Stunning Ajanta and Ellora caves

I left Jaipur in the morning and flew to Aurangabad via Mumbai. After I had spent a few nights on buses and in a number of budget accommodations I was tempted to stay in a proper hotel (ideally one with a large pool). When I arrived at Aurangabad airport I spotted a representative of the Taj Hotel in Aurangabad and - due to low-season - negotiated quite a good deal. The room rate of Rs3800 (EUR 70) included luxury tax, free transfer from the airport and a nice breakfast buffet the next morning. And yes, they had a large pool, dimly lit after nightfall and offering a spectacular view of the starry sky.

I came to Aurangabad for one reason only: to use the city as a hub to visit the nearby caves and temples of Ajanta and Ellora. I booked a full day tour to both sites with the concierge of my fancy hotel. Clearly this wasn't the cheapest but the most convenient option. Still, the chauffeur-driven car cost me only Rs3000 (EUR 54) for a full day.

Ajanta

I met my driver after breakfast and we set off for the 90 minute drive to the cave temples of Ajanta, some 110km north of Aurangabad. We arrived there at around 9am. The thirty caves are set into the rocky sides of a panoramic gorge shaped like a gigantic horseshoe. Of the caves, five are Chaityas (shrines) dedicated to Buddha and the rest are Viharas (monasteries) used by Buddhist monks. The cave complex was continuously lived in from 200 BC to about AD 650.

Back in 1819, a party of British army officers on a tiger hunt rediscovered the caves. Today, these caves are among the finest examples of the earliest Buddhist architecture, cave paintings and sculptures. The paintings that adorn the walls and the ceilings of the caves detail the Buddha's life. Further, the paintings contain court scenes, street scenes, domestic life and even animal and bird studies. Most caves are dimly lit if at all so I was lucky to have my own torch light handy.

I was quite stunned by the beauty and realism of the paintings inside the caves. Also, the sculptures were truly impressive as was the whole setting, the gorge. All in all, it took me more than 4 hours to explore Ajanta however I could have easily spent a whole day there. It was well past lunchtime before I was back at my taxi and faced the 60 minute journey to Ellora.

Ellora

The Ellora caves were excavated between 600 and 1000 AD. In all there are 34 caves: 12 Buddhist (600-800 AD), 17 Hindu (600-900 AD) and 5 Jain (800-1000 AD) temples. This versatility illustrates the spirit of tolerance that was characteristic of ancient India.

Actually I spent most of my time here in just one of these structures. Cave 16, the Hindu Kailasa temple looks like a free standing, multi-storey temple complex - but the entire structure of this architectural wonder has been carved out of one single rock which makes it the world's largest monolith. What makes it even more amazing is the fact that unlike other temple structures which are built base onwards, the sculptor or architect involved here, started carving from the very top and the sides. Apparently the temple took more than 100 years to complete.

Both Ajanta and Ellora offer spectacular and unique sights. Looking back, this day trip was one of the most exciting experiences during my whole stay in India.

Aurangabad

When I arrived back at Aurangabad I finished my sightseeing tour with a quick visit to the Bibi-ka-Maqbara. Designed as a replica of the Taj Mahal it was built in 1678, just 30 years after completion of the latter.

After a quick nip into the hotel pool and dinner I took a taxi to the bus station. Here, I waited for the sleeper bus to Mumbai (11pm to 7am, Rs250). Once aboard I feel asleep quickly, knowing that I would see the next sunset whilst relaxing on a decent beach in Goa.

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