Orchha - a little side trip!

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OK - I was meant to be in Delhi still all this week for the last week of "in country orientation" as part of my one month prep for my NGO placement in Orissa. However - the program was looking re markedly 'thin on the ground' to say the least so I 'negotiated' with the Volunteer organisation I am here under to take a little side trip instead.

I had intended to visit Orchha on a good friend's advice (Leila) in February - but due to changes in the NGO work arrangements had to cut my free travel short. So.... given I was in Delhi - and Orchha was in striking distance (about 5 hours travel away) and I had the time (albeit stolen from 'in country orientation'!) - off I went.

On the way I called in to Mathura (Krishna's birthplace) and nearby Vrindavan (Krishna's abode). Due to the heat and dust; mad roadworks causing traffic jams; and unreal security measures at Krishna's birthplace (but it is after all another Ayodhya waiting to happen - with a mosque built right on top of the place); these places were 'missable' on the day! The highlight was finding refuge in Govinda's Restaurant at the Hari Krishna Ashram for some lunch.

So getting to Orchha, I was expecting a nice little 'shanti' Hindu town. It was indeed that BUT much more - I had not really read up on the place - it's full of the most amazing old temples and forts and palaces as the attached pics will attest to.

For those who must know - you can read all about the history and more of the place by going to this site:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orchha

Suffice it to say that Orchha is a town in Tikamgarh district of Madhya Pradesh state, India and was the seat of an eponymous former princely state of central India, in the Bundelkhand region. It has the relatively clean (clean enough for yours truly to swim in each afternoon) Betwa River flowing through it (which was another bonus for me to find).

I found a lovely little single room in Sharma Guest House in the middle of town - on the ground floor so (built of stone slabs as is traditional) it was a great refuge (with the fan going) in the middle of the day - March is HOT in Orchha - and this will continue until the monsoons break some months hence.

I met some great new Indian friends - mostly stall merchants - and just had a lay-back time over the 4 days I was there. I am definitely coming back again in winter months and staying longer some day!

I felt very safe in Orchha! - check out the town cop - he directed traffic and made sure everyone behaved themselves in general! Potential miscreants must shiver in their sandals!

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Photos

Old temple in middle of town
This and what follows give the 'taste' of a town that abounds in ruins of temples and forts and old gardens

Kids in Orchha
Digital cameras are great - kids ask to have their photos taken 'cause they love seeing the instant results!

Raja Mahal Palace
This is perhaps the main attraction (there are many) in terms of significant ruins - mainly because of the stunning murals. Some bloke got in the way of this shot!

Raja Mahal Palace 2
Another aspect of the palace complex

Raja Mahal Palace 3
And another!

Bridge approach to Raja Mahal Palace
Nice goats - for milking (given this is Hindu territory - not for eating!). This shot is looking back to the town from the Palace end of the bridge.

Fresco in Raja Mahal Palace
The frescos were amazing inside the palace. Very well preserved - from the 17th Century.

Laxmi Temple
This is another major site in Orchha just out of town

Laxmi Temple mural 1
Inside the Laxmi temple

Laxmi Temple mural 2
And another

Laxmi Temple scratch art
I don't think this was graffiti!

Betwa River 1
A great place to take a cool dip in the late afternoon. Like many rivers around holy places - you find amazing statues in the water which are thrown in there (yes - more research needed by me as to the significance of this!)

Sharma Guest House
Where I stayed - this is the entry to a cool courtyard - off which was my ground floor (therefore cooler) room with fan refuge!

Betwa River 2
This river must really swell during the monsoons

Central Market area
Orchha is a pilgrimage site for Hindus. This is the courtyard on the way to the main (current) temple.

More ruins
These are upriver from the town.

Betwa River 3
From my swimming spot looking up river.

Orchha Market
colour for throwing and what else not sure!

Veg and Fruit Market
Note how lay back it all is - very "shanti" place!

A Policeman's lot
This is the town constable on duty! Criminals and others with devious thoughts beware and tremble in your boots. Actually his main duties seem to be directing traffic through the centre of town and making sure no-one parks illegally at the entrance to the main temple approach

Orcha View
Looking back at central Orchha from the gateway of the Raja Mahal palace

Comments

[Bro Michael]

doesn't look like work
nice pics of a nice place. p.s. The Bluesfest was amazing

[Reg]

Orcha side trip
Did Orcha as a day side trip from Jhansi. The guy in the Jhansi Hotel had a book about it but refused to let me look at it (probably because he knew I wouldn't come back). The guy I rented the autorickshaw from said we could spend all day there but predictably was in some sort of hurry to get back to town so my stay wasn't quite so leisurely in spite of me plying him and his best buddy with Campa Cola. Has a good vibe, eh?