Kanha National Park - Safari Time


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April 27th 2008
Published: April 27th 2008
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To Kanha National Park


It had been three wonderful days so far at Kanha National Park.

Morning and evening safaris each day. Langurs (primates) and Chitals (spotted deer) and Barking Deer and Peacocks and Indian Buffalo and Wild Boar and Sambar (Indian Deer) and plenty of incredibly beautiful birds. Like the Indian Blue Jay and the Kingfisher. And we'd had a our moments viewing the beautiful Barasingha or Swamp Deer, a species that is only thriving in this one location in the world. And only thriving due to intensive management to promote its survival.

We'd even joined in the tiger frenzy the first morning!

Word had spread that a tiger had been sighted as he settled in for a long, lazy, hot day in the cool shade. We paid our 600 Rupees and jumped on the elephant back for the short and lumbering ride to view the sleeping tiger. But somehow, paying to see a tiger sleeping in a culvert under the dirt road wasn't quite the wild tiger sighting I had imagined. Fortunately, on a later safari we would have two distant and fleeting but intense and satisfying tiger sightings. As the sun set over this thirsty corner of the world.

But tonight I sit on the verandah outside our rooms at the Baghira Log Cabins Lodge in near darkness. Reflecting back on the peace and calm of this beautiful and natural corner of this crowded and dirty subcontinent. I watch the occasional firefly burn his way across the view in front of me. Listening as the chital moved calmly about, feeding on the tender shoots hidden under the crisp, dry leaves. Hoping that the tiger that we'd seen heading down the valley out of the Park and towards our lodge at day's end might find his way across my vista. Even though monsoon is still nearly two months away, a surprise of a thunder storm is approaching. The flickering in the sky is my first clue, although I was never sure of the source of the light show until I finally heard my first rolling thunder. I sat, immersed in the peaceful present and the approaching storm. I counted. Thirty seconds between lightning and thunder. Twenty eight. Twenty one. Sixteen. Eleven. Suddenly the lightening is much brighter, the wind whips up a brief but intense flurry and the thunder roars almost immediately.

And the world is plunged into absolute darkness as the electricity goes off.

All is still in the darkness. For a few moments there is no lightning. No wind. The intensity of the sudden silence is startling.

Then a chital grunts its alarm call and everywhere hooves scurry through the dry leaves to safety. The chital know. Something is out there. Something they are scared of. Something . . . . . .

My eyebrows shoot up. Goose bumps cover my arms. The adrenaline rushes out to activate my muscles. And I too leap up! And scamper with the chitals to safety. My room!

My heart is pounding, my imagination running. I settle in for what may well be a long and hungry night. Because the lodge restaurant is about a quarter mile trek up a pitch black track. And I'm not about to do that. Even with my Maglite! I mean if the Chitals are scared, I'm scared. Chitals know how to survive here!

Maybe a half hour later, my friend KC comes knocking on the door, inquiring about going up for dinner. I'm still petrified and briefly recount my story through the closed door. She heads back to her room. Right next door. Quickly.

I'm thankful when the electricity returns and the lights that illuminate that track up to the lodge restaurant come back to life. Man again controls this little corner of the world! And I get to have supper!

But it was a powerful reminder, those few minutes when we were not in control! After too much time in the thundering city of Mumbai, it was a welcome reminder!


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28th November 2009

Inquiry
Hi ! How can I make my booking for safari for Kanha national Park ?
28th February 2010

How we booked
When we went, we did all of our arrangements through an Indian government entity, the Maydya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation. I live in Mumbai and they had a local office - but I would bet you could get a lot of information about them on line as well . . .

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