A lost paradise : Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary

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Chennai-Trivandrum Mail dropped me at Kottayam early in the morning around 7:20 am. Kottayam railway station was one with not much ‘hue and cry’ like any major railway stations. Usually most of the Kerala rail stations are not big as you expect. However, I slowly came out of the station took a long breath. Monsoon had arrived in Kerala and the aroma of fresh rain was felt early this am. This is what I like about Kerala, not ‘brag and drags’ of auto drivers, no unnecessary bargains from the porters. It was all peaceful. As I read in some journals, Kottayam lays at the base of The Western Ghats so the roads, streets has a bit of undulating curves which means one has to walk up and down in quite often. I didn’t see many hotels around the railway station and picked up one of them. Safa Guest house offered a deal for 500/-/a night and it seemed to be clean and decent for backpackers like me. I knew I had to cover a lot of places that day and the time was running out like anything. I was running at least 2hours off schedule almost. With least time spent on my person hygiene, I hit the road around 8:30 am. The morning was fresh still and bit of cold breeze was waving all around.



My first destination was Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary which was just 18kms away from Kottayam. My readers might surprise as Kumarakom is a place on the bank of mighty Vembanad Lake and famous for lake resorts, so how come there’s a Bird Sanctuary in place. Yes, Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary is perhaps one of the smallest bird sanctuaries in India. Set in the backwaters, this sanctuary is spread over 14 acres on the southern bank of Kavanar River. Earlier this was actually a ‘Rubber Estate’ owned by an Englishman Mr.Baker which was later promoted to a Bird Sanctuary and Mr.Baker’s bungalow was modified to a ‘Heritage Hotel’ and run by The Taj Group. I took a three wheeler from Kottayam Railway station and settled for Rs.200/-, one way. This old fella seemed not having much knowledge about the bird sanctuary in fact I found most of the local residents didn’t have much knowledge about this sanctuary. However, Kumarakom and adjoining Vembanad Lake being major holiday destinations, people know about them and could guide you well. After driving through the narrow village roads of Kerala , we reached the Kumarakom Boat Jetty and driving further 4kms, we reached the gate of the sanctuary. There was only one ‘sign’ which told us that we were heading on the right direction else missing that board might direct you somewhere else but not at the sanctuary. I had to pay Rs.30/- for the ticket and Rs.50/- for my camera and also settled for a guide for Rs.200/-. The entry point of this Sanctuary has a large parking lot and a ‘Star Category’ resort run by Kerala Tourism. ‘With my gears and guns’ ready, I followed the laid out track with my guide. I won’t say it was a dense forest rather it was thick and well maintained. When asked about the place, the guide replied that we had to walk to the end of the sanctuary which was around 3kms from the entry point and had a watch tower in place. He also said that this sanctuary had the maximum breeding, nesting or rather considered ‘The Homeland’ for Purple and Night Herons. Other birds nesting here were Egrets, Cormorants, Darters, Drongos, Robins, Moorhens, Kingfishers, Jacanas, Cuckoo, Waterfowls and some migratory birds like Larks, Teals, Cranes and others. However I was well aware that I had chosen a wrong season for bird watching as it was early in June and moreover The South-West Monsoon had arrived a couple of days ago. I was rolling my dices if and only if any of the migratory birds could be spotted. First 20 minutes or so wasn’t a great walk and couldn’t spot a single crow even. But after sometime we spotted some 20-30 Night Herons up above the ‘High Trees’ and they were way beyond my normal lens. A Drongo was spotted then an Oriental Magpie Robin followed by a Darter on the tree which was rare to my knowledge. Slowly the forest was getting thicker and being a cloudy overcast day the chances of taking photos were going bleak. A Malabar Whistling Thrush was expressing his ‘Morning Ragas’, so melodious that I had his tune recorded on my cellphone. Spotted some giant Mushrooms, very colorful. After walking for an hour or so we reached a place from where Vembanad Lake was clearly visible. A couple of Houseboats were floating around. I stopped to take a few shots. I started enjoying my ‘Trek’ a bit slowly but not lately. I did notice a ‘watch stops’ inside the sanctuary. The guards seemed to have doing nothing but sitting idle and watching birds. When asked, they said that they were getting paid a salary of Rs.6000/- to sit for 10 hours a day, 24/7. Not sure why it was necessary. However, my guide fellow then played his escapade.



‘Sir, would you like to see some Bats’, he asked.



‘Off course, where are they?’, was my reply.



‘Follow me’, he said and left the track.



With much questions asked, I followed him. He took a diversion from the main laid out track and walked about a mile deep inside the Sanctuary. It was all thick grasses and I was afraid of snakes.



‘Oh ! My god’, was my first reaction.



As far as I could see, all Bats around, hanging upside down from the trees. They were of different sizes, making a huge lousy noise and were spread everywhere from the top to the nearest branches. The place itself had pungent typical smell which was giving me uncomfortable feelings. I tried to count but within seconds I gave up, because they were in thousands. After clicking a few shots, we came back to the main ‘track’. What an experience it was!



I was still thinking about the ‘Batman’s World’ and after another miles walk, we reached the watch tower which was probably the last point for any tourist. I climbed the watch tower and found a marshland in front of me. Thousands of Egrets, Darters, Cormorants and Herons were busy nesting or nurturing their eggs. This place reminded me The Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary in Tamilnadu. However I didn’t see any Painted Stork, a couple of Open Billed Storks ere present. We spent some 45 minutes at the watch tower following which we walked back to the same track and reached the ‘Entry Point’. I was happy and this sanctuary was more than my expectations. After meeting the Forest Officials, I shared some of my previous bird watching experiences and photos with them. Fortunately, I had my laptop with me. Seeing my interest, they have shown me a documentary on this ‘Kuamrakom Bird Sanctuary’ and invited me to enjoy their hospitality not once but several times. They also promised to arrange special bird watching program through the back waters and paddy fields. However, as per the officials, the best season would November to January. After having a nice ‘tea time discussion’ with them, I had to say good bye to ‘Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary’ for one final time. I knew that this was just the beginning not the end. I was really mesmerized by the hospitality and cordial behaviors by the forest officials which I’m sure other ‘Forest Department’ officials need to learn. Being rude is easy but being amiable is perhaps ‘The Toughest’ job in the world. Though I just managed to spent a couple of hours in ‘Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary’, but it seems I knew this place for years.



A Snapshot: Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary



How to get in there :



Rail/Road : Kottayam is the nearest and major railhead and it is connected to several parts of India. After which one needs to drive about 18kms through well tarred village road. Once crossing the Kumarakom Baot Jetty, drive further 3 kms and then you could see the sanctuary gate on the left.



Air : Kochi airport is the nearest after which drive about 54kms via Cherthala.



Where to stay : KTDC runs a star category resort the sanctuary, for booking contact KTDC at your nearest location. Otherwise a plenty of Private Resorts are available at Kumarakom ( If you google in, you ill get a lot of information about these resorts ). Contact the resort managers and they could arrange further. Else one can stay at Kottayam which has plenty of accommodation options and can opt a day tour to Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary.



Best Season :



November – January for bird watching otherwise this sanctuary is open though the year.



Ticket ; Rs. 30/- (Entry), Rs.50/-(Camera), Rs.200/-(Guide)



Tips : Carry a pair of good binoculars for some amazing bird watching experience. In Monsoon, carry some salt along with you as some leeches might try to act friendly and ‘They Suck’. Carry drinking water and some snacks as the options are limited. Make sure you don’t leave your ‘plastic souvenirs’ as the place is considered as a ‘high plastic free zone’. And if fined that wouldn’t be a healthy one for your pocket.



Thanks for a patient reading!

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Comments

[Ranit Ganguly]

It's really lovely to read and gather information.