Fall in Srinagar, fall in love with Kashmir (Oct 23 -27, 2009)

Kashmir ~ Paradise on Earth.

One of our business associates opened a hotel in Srinagar recently and I had the golden opportunity to attend the inauguration and visit Kashmir, a place I would otherwise never visit on my own. I can now say confidently that this lovely place is safe to travel and the reason why it is out of the tourism radar is simply because of the media. Cops and armed forces are everywhere, thus making it very safe for tourist. I went around the city on an auto and not even for a second, did I feel threatened or intimidated .

Srinagar
The summer capital is a small city with very few interest points for tourists. It lacks history but is made up for it by its natural beauty. It is hard to believe a place little over an hour flight from Delhi is the Paradise on Earth.

The population in Srinagar is made up of 80% Muslims, 10% Sikhs and the rest are other minority groups. We arrived on a Friday afternoon and shops were closed for prayers. Sunday is a day of rest and again all the shops in town are closed. This shows how laid back Kashmiris are.

Dal lake is beautiful at sunset. It sits in a valley surrounded by a range of mountains. I can imagine how beautiful it is in the winter when the mountains are all covered in snow. Houseboats are everywhere on Dal Lake. Went on a shikara ride during sunset, it was beautiful but a bit chilly as the temperature dropped immensely. This place lacks cafe, I walked along the lake for miles looking for a decent cafe to enjoy the sunset but couldn't find any. I reckon if I open one, I could be minting money. Ha ha ha. I guess I am not the only one toying with this idea, this has definitely to do with the security issue in Kashmir. I was told Cafe Coffee Day is planning on opening one soon around the lake. Hopefully the next time I go back, there will be a number of them sitting by the lake.

 • People
I find the people here very beautiful. Not only are Kashmiris fairer, their features are different too. They resemble people from Central Asia. Could the fresh air and pollution free environment contributed to their beauty? I think so....

 • Costumes
Men either wear western clothes or kurta pyjama, whereas most women wear loose salwar kameez and cover their heads. Both men and women wear long flowing woolen gowns or pherans. There are still a handful of women who roam around the streets in burqa. Since there are no central heating or heaters in their homes, people use the traditional heating pot or kangri to keep them what. Kangri is basically a clay pot fitted in a wicker basket. The portable heater is filled with embers and used by locals to ward off the cold by placing it under their pherans

 • Food and Kashmiri traditions
Kashmiri food are less greasy compared to other regional curries in India. Kawa is a traditional green tea with spices, nuts and sweetened with sugar. I personally prefer it sans sugar. Kashmiri chai is very interesting, it is pink in colour and salted.
Unlike in western countries where part of the tax payer's money goes towards snow plowing on main roads. I curiously asked one of the locals what they eat in the winter. I was told in the summer, they dry the vegetables for winter. Duh? Should have thought of it, didn't I?
Staying with the local is the best way to experience their culture. There are no dining tables or chairs in their homes. All meals are eaten on the floor. Plastic or regular table cloth are used. Like any other traditional indian customs, all meals are eaten with hands. Before meals, the servants come around with a copper kettle and bowl for members to wash their hands before meals. (I am sure this is not the case in a normal home but the family who I stayed with are quite well off.)

 • It's a men's world
I reckon 90% of the women do not work at all. Period. Atleast the family I lived with during my stay didn't. Men went to work in the morning and women just sat around in the garden sipping kawa and chatted happily.
On the day of the inauguration, I thought the whole family would come out and celebrate. Little did I know, I was the only non indian and woman attending the reception. It is after all a men's world out there......What else can I say?

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