There is a lot I don't understand. I don't understand the thanka paintings on the temple walls. They are frightening- Buddhas depicted with snake tongues, sharp fingernails, ivory skulls, wild eyes. Where are the fat, smiling Buddhas with the Santa Claus bellies I see in the west? I don't understand the spirit of the old woman who spends her days circumambulating a holy site. Each step wracks her body with pain from her sad, 80-year old hips, but she doesn't stop. Her eyes have failed and when she spoke I saw black nubs where teeth should be, but on she walks,
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