hairpins and potholes..

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We set off from Sarahan early, filled up the tank and headed up the road toward Spiti. Next stop Chitkul. Before leaving Chris had vowed never to get as cold as he had been again so a quick stop at the market and 50 rupees later he had a rather fetching pair of long johns… my how we (Katie) laughed!

At first the road was lovely, winding graceful curves cut into the sides of sheer cliffs. Overhanging ledges providing some cover from the light rain. Sheltering under one of these overhangs we bumped into Ingmar and Des, on their way back from Sangla… They were all smiles as they too wrapped up and warned us that this lovely road would soon be coming to an abrupt end, their last words echoing in lazy Katies' bones “You’ll probably have to get off and walk up most of them hills…”

They were right! The luxurious tarmac soon gave way to pot holes, sand and steep hair pin bends. Poulet complained only a little and Katie not at all as Chris guided her up the hills with his super bike riding skills… Sweating from the tension we came to an open stretch and gleefully sped up (only a bit!) for about 5 minutes when we were stopped by a MASSIVE traffic jam… Huge tipper trucks, nose to tail, ambulances, buses, cars and us stuck on a skinny stretch of mountain road… ½ a mile away another traffic jam coming towards us and in the middle some road builders carving out the rock with a jack hammer!... needless to say the road was presumably blocked…However, Chris’ super skills were out in force, he even had his underpants over his tights (ladies long johns), there was no stopping him… As Katie clambered off and bit her fingernails Chris deftly maneuvered along the road, squeezing past trucks inches from sudden death (those of you who at this point might be a little worried, don’t worry Katie had the passports, travellers cheques and insurance details safe in her bag) everyone held their breath and then a tremendous roar rippled around the mountain as truck drivers, ambulance crew, bus passengers, road workers and Katie cheered at his death defying success… OK, that last bit didn’t happen but Chris was awesome and Katie did bite her fingernails…

Finally, after crossing a few small streams we arrived in Chitkul. Chitkul is a small village some 3500 mts above sea level, with an ancient Gompa temple and a lively traditional feeling when it’s still light. The altitude made us a little breathless. We managed to bag a lovely room. Wooden framed with windows on three sides. Our view was spectacular, the raging river and mountains all around. The sunrise was just so beautiful and as we tipped our morning pee out of the window (we had to use a bottle there was no bathroom!!) several bare bottoms smiled back at us, Chitkul was performing its morning ablutions… The rest of the time in Chitkul was spent very peacefully if a little coldly with some wanderings through the village and across the river. Chris throwing stones WITH some village boys, teasing the same boys about marriage and eating some rather plain food… on our second day the rain set in and scuppered any trek plans we had. We spent the next two days wearing all our clothes wrapped in blankets playing cards… As soon as the rain cleared the tarp came off of Poulet and we roared out of there… Again not entirely true as it took 3 or 4 soldiers to push start her after which she coughed her way down the hill and to warmer climes…

Something was definitely up with our lovely little Pou. She was rattling and popping and barely had the strength to pull us into Recong Peo, although she did manage to drag us and our dignity behind her to the mechanics……….

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