Back in the mountains

Ahhhh I love the hill country in India and here in McLeod Gange you can actually see snow capped mountains most days. My timing was perfect, ‘cause the Dalai Lama was actually teaching the week I was there … and unbelievable to me, it was free - nothing is free in India!

Due to the teachings, the town was packed and it was really difficult to find accommodation ... well a decent room, at a decent price, that wasn’t a 10km hike from the town. I came up on the bus with a lovely German couple (Jan and Simone) and on our first night we stayed at a perfect place, but they kicked us out the next day due to prior bookings. After that we split up on a mission to find somewhere else. Nothing compared … I was mortified. Anyway we ended up taking rooms based on “location location” and luckily 3 days later I got upgraded to a better room with a fantastic view and my own bathroom so it all worked out in the end.

The day before the teachings I was in full preparation mode; got my ID pass, bought a cushion to sit on, a radio to hear the interpreter, some snacks and flipped through my Tibetan Buddhism book again.

Security was pretty high as you’d expect, but you could feel the anticipation from everyone waiting in line to get into the temple. My main goal was just to see the Dalai Lama. A little simplistic given the grandeur of the opportunity, however I had no idea how the teachings would run and was fully prepared for most of it to go right over my head. I was pleasantly surprised. My reading to date was just enough to keep me a float and interested.

The days were broken into two 2 - 3 hour sessions and you 'bags' your spot by writing your name on a piece of paper and taping it to the concrete. My spot was under cover, against a wall and if I leaned to my right I could even see His Holiness...perfect! Each session is capped off by His Holiness walking down a pathway waving and smiling ever so serenely at the crowd. I proudly admit that my heart filled with love at the sight of him and left me grinning from ear to ear. Honestly... that man should rule the world, it would be a much calmer and more peaceful place. I’m still a long way away to understanding the Buddhist way of life, but it was a great initiation.

Aside from the teachings, I went for walks, read books, caught up for the occasional meal with Jan and Simone and watched Germany kick some countries arse in the world cup (I was more interested in the beer and gossiping with some Israeli girl).

I could have easily stayed there for a few weeks, but the chance to head further north with a Canadian guy - Kevin - I met briefly in Amristar arose.

First we had to take an overnight bus to Manali which was, as always, excruciating. I find it impossible to sleep especially when for most of the journey you’re thrown from side to side as the bus speeds down winding roads and literally flies over speed humps.

I loved Manali, it has a great chilled out vibe. Upon mentioning this, Kevin promptly informed me that it should be because pot grows everywhere on the side of the road and people come here just to smoke. There’s plenty of shops (not that I ever go into them as I detest shopping) and enough good restaurants that you can move from one to the other all day long having lemon, ginger, honey tea or the like.

After a restful day the jeep picked us up at 2am, bound for Leh.

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