Tashi Delek... (Tibetan Greeting)

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Well on my way to Dharamshala was probably one of the most interesting adventures of my journey! I reached Haridwar and brought a ticket for my first 15 hour night journey on the most local run down bus you can ever imagine! I wasn't trying to be overly adventurous it was actually the only way to get there.

So I waited until my bus departed at 4pm and realised I was sitting right at the front with the ticket inspectors, I wasn't surprised actually the ticket guy was in shock that I was by myself hence he gave me that seat! We were on our way and surprisingly there were no other travels on the bus just me and the locals, so it was a real cool trip... well not all of it!

As we were driving through Haryana a really young guy who must have been no more then 20yrs accidentally knocked into us, my ticket guy and the driver were the first one to rush of and speak to him or so I thought!!! They dragged him out of the fork lift truck he was driving and started shouting at him, then came the slaps and dragging of his shirt. I was horrified, I mean you see this on television or hear about it but when you see it in front of your own eyes! I was speechless and everyone who knows me knows that I’m hardly ever lost for words! So they dragged him in front of the bus to show him the damages and kept asking for money, the boy at this stage was crying and pleading with them to stop slapping and dragging him around. But instead the crowd of locals around him grew bigger and bigger and the boy was beginning to shrink amongst them, it was like they were slowly but surely burying him as we saw less and less of him.

At that point I could not only see my ticket inspector slapping at him but random remembers from the crowd shoving a hand or a leg in just to get a free shot! I was disgusted and really wanted to shout out and stop them! The boy kept saying he has no money so they ended up dragging him on the bus and they were actually going to take him with us, I quickly moved forward as they threw him on the seat next to mine. I saw his face that young fresh skin that seemed to be cut in a few places from the slaps and his torn bloody shirt, he was begging, pleading and his eyes were swollen and red from the tears that had shattered them! I never felt so sorry for anyone that much in my life. Someone finally shouted and said stop hitting him, I was so happy when I heard those words in Hindi, he then pulled out some money from his pocket and the ticket guy shoved him off the bus to only turn around and shout 'who said leave him alone', no one answered! He then started shouting and trying to justify why he was beating the poor boy saying it was his fault. Thereafter he sat down right next to me and I cringed all the way until he swapped seats with another ticket inspector!!!

We stopped at about 9:30pm at a random Dhaba in the middle of a huge field. I got off the bus as soon as I could as my behind was numb, after walking around a little I asked this lady holding a child where the toilet was and believe me I was getting desperate at that time. She gave me the most alienating look ever and said there is no toilet you have to do it outside!!! Hundreds of thoughts rushed through my head like 'where outside?' 'What direction?' 'What if someone comes whilst you’re doing you business?’ But instead I looked at her and smiled giving her the impression that 'oh I knew that'. So I pulled myself together and thank god I had my torch, I walked around the corner and did whatever I had to but believe me I was on guard! Lol

I had a chai and we left soon after, we stopped at Chandigarh and many dodgy places in Haryana and the thing was I was dying to get off and stretch my legs or walk around a little so I get the feeling back in my bum! But only the men were getting off for a smoke and it was pitch black so I stayed put.

I reached Dharamshala at 6ish in the morning and was delighted to get of the rattling bus that seemed it was going to fall apart at any moment. The driving doesn't help either especially up the mountain, around the sharp bends the way you feel the bus swing from left to right.

I then met a couple from UP and an old Tibetan woman who were going to McLeod Ganj and we all jumped into a taxi together for another half hour trip. Reaching McLeod Ganj I got talking to the Indian couple and we decided to look for rooms together, we found a cheap guesthouse which seemed ok at the time. The couple wanted to go sightseeing and wanted me to go with them as the husband just wanted to share the expenses, but I had to let them down gently.

So I went off to sleep as I didn't sleep a wink on the bus. Once I had awoken and freshened up, opened the door and I had the most amazing view from the front balcony of seeing my first snow peak. This was heaven for me, the serene surroundings, the view of mountains and the beauty of hundreds of white butterflies flying around.

I was starving so I found a really nice modern Tibetan restaurant where I stuffed my stomach with momo's... hmmmm! This is where I met this guy from Delhi who I wish I never met to be honest! He seemed cool at first and after lunch we walked to these waterfalls near by then we chilled out and had some dinner. Conversations were flowing and we both got along then suddenly he started acting like my dad and trying to take too much care for me, which by this time I wasn't used to. Anywhere we would go or anything I wanted he would go and ask and every time anyone would speak to me in Hindi he would translate it in English! The next day we went on a trek to these isolated waterfalls and believe me I wasn't feeling very well that day but we still went and it took us the whole day. I must say it was worth it as the waterfalls were beautiful.

On the way back from the waterfalls I was so exhausted and starving, so we were trying to find somewhere to eat and I had seen a nice little place on the way there so I told him. All the way there he was saying where is it? how far is it?, we might have to eat in town! If I was feeling well I really would have punched him, he was doing my nut in!!! So we found the place and the woman there made me home made Kitchri, which was really what I needed but thereafter my head started burning up and I had bad fever.

When we got back to my guest house he was like oh I think I should stay and look after you and all I wanted at that time was to get rid of him!!! So I had to be blunt and a little rude and told him to catch his bus back to Delhi! I think he got the message and I didn't see him after that... thank god!!!

I decided to stay an extra day to recover as I knew I had another 13/14 hour local bus journey to Manali. So the next day whilst having something to eat in the guesthouse I met a Buddhist nun who I got talking to and she was originally from Australia but she has been in McLeod Ganj for 8 years. She ended up taking me to her Gompa where she lives and I met her Tibetan land lady who is so sweet. Then we went to the Tibetan Museum and the main Monastery and walked around the Kora.

The next day I just chilled and started to plan where I will go next as my previous plans were to go to Dalhousie but as I fell ill and ended up staying an extra day there I crossed that place out of the itinerary. So the next day in the morning around 5/6 I boarded another local bus to Manali... my next destination!

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