DAY 14: Udaipur to Ahmedabad


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February 22nd 2011
Published: February 25th 2011
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Artist at workArtist at workArtist at work

Nice little man who I bought a picture from
Train: Udaipur to Ahmedabad. Journey to Goa Leg 1.

It gets a bit confusing now, but basically today we woke up in Udaipur. We were going to sleep on the night train to get to Ahmedabad. (Leaving at 7pm, arriving at 4am). We had a 7 hour wait in Ahmedabad to then get the 11am train to Goa for leg 2 of the journey. We would not arrive in Goa until 8am the following morning. That's a LOT of train time!

So we woke up today after a nice lie-in thinking that we'll just mooch about until we have to get the train at 7pm turned out- it turned out to be one of our most eventful days yet and I apologise now because this blog entry will be hefty!

It all started off so innocently. Laura has been after this one particular pair of shoes in a size 39 for days. We've had size 38s, and size 40s then those which say size 38 and size 40 but the seller is swearing blind they are a 39 but to no avail. We decide that today is the day that we get the shoes. She bought 2 other pairs before FINALLY finding the dream shoes in 39. Then she moved on to trousers. I was hanging around outside the shop because once you're in, eyes light up and they start trying to sell you something, More importantly I start to buy things (Laura left me for 2 minutes to get a bottle of water, to come back into the shop to me and the shop man holding up a double quilted duvet cover discussing the ways I can get it shipped back)- she rescued me before any money was handed over thank God.

So I'm hanging around and she's taking ages so I pop my head in and decide it's safe to wander in. Cue the lovechild of a liaison between an Indian and Franc from Father of the Bride. He knew we were English but decided that he would speak Spanish today: 'Cam in! Cam in! You don't need buy. We can just put clothes on you, isn't it?' 'La me gusta, la me gusta!' He ushers me in to Laura- looking just as confused as I am. 'I design the cloths for the Bollywood peoples, isn't it? You don't have to buy, you can just
Teeth anyone?Teeth anyone?Teeth anyone?

Who fancies a new set of gnashers?
put clothes on- look'. He rapidly put a turban on my head. 'My name is Ramesh- here is purple- beeeeeautiful on you, put this jacket on...' He dresses me, then dresses himself and encourages Laura to get out the camera and take some photos. 'You sit on my knee, now let's dance- la la la la la!!'. Now Laura's turn.

He dresses her in a bright green sari, then re-dresses himself. Then gets her to jump on his back before giving her a fireman's lift throughout the tiny shop. We think he's finished until he says 'I need short girl- 5'2"...... with hips!'- That'll be me then. So he carefully puts this skirt on me, all the while saying how he likes it in Spanish and 'Estupendo' and then 'Here is the falda (skirt)'. Next thing I know my elephant t-shirt is over my head, I'm stood with my bikini top on and he's assembling a belly-necklace thing on me. He adjusts my hair, gets changed himself then starts dancing around with me. 'Sit here, dance like this, move your arms up' etc etc. Hands down the most surreal thing ever! 'You are now both in my Bollywood movie, yes?'.

We still don't know whether he actually has been a designer for Bollywood films, or whether it is something he aspires to do and uses his customers as props. Good thing is, he never did push for a sale!

So we finally get to the train for 7pm and get settled in our little booth. Clean sheets and towels are provided. I think the 9 hour journey cost us about a fiver...not bad really. The only thing with trains in India is that you have to make sure that the people you are sharing your cabin with are safe enough for you to fall asleep. There's lots of theft and sometimes murders on these trains so best to make sure you're ok. When 3 little women stepped in to our cabin- I was relieved. They were the nicest women...but the most inquisitive. Indians think nothing of asking how much your salary is, or can you cook? If not, how will you be a good wife?? They were harmless enough- although I'm sure they were practising their GCSE English on us...

'Are you married?' No. 'What do you cook for your boyfriend in the house?' Hmm we don't always cook- sometimes our boyfriends cook. They laugh their heads off and think we are lying. 'Which God do you pray to?' In India they have a choice, though the most popular is Shiva and the only one I know anything about.
'Erm. Well I pray to the Catholic God, but I do like the sound of Shiva. Doesn't he have a third eye?' That's about all I know but I've said enough to impress and we talk about this for a while. Then Laura tells them she doesn't believe in God and it kills the conversation a little....'Ok. Sing us a song' Erm what do you want us to sing? What do you know in English? 'We know Michael Jackson'- I was just racking my brains for the lyrics to Heal the World when the older woman steps up again 'Tell me 2 sentences about Jesus'. Oh God. My mind completely blanked- after going to a Catholic school until I was 16 I could not remember one thing about Jesus. Erm...... 'Ok. What will you eat for breakfast?' I look at Laura who looks lost. She says we'll probably have some platform food- 'scrambled egg or a pasty
Then put her on his back...Then put her on his back...Then put her on his back...

Hands down the funniest picture we have!
thing' Which leads us on to food- a juicy topic over here. We tell them what food we've tried and spend 15 minutes talking about different types of Indian bread. They leave after an hour, they want their own cabin and they won't all fit in ours but they shake our hand and one personally takes me to the toilet to make sure I won't get lost. They tell us to lock the door and do not open if someone knocks on.

They were lovely and friendly and really, it was the first real experience of the India that we'd heard loads about- the people being friendly and hospitable. We arrive in Ahmedabad shattered so we head to the women's only waiting room and try and get some sleep on the benches. Laura swears that the attendant to the toilet was my nan in disguise. Whenever a man tried to come in she booted them out and was making sure everyone was paying their 2 rupees or whatever for the toilet. I'd crashed out at this point so I didn't see it- Nan, you can tell Laura when you see her, her words not mine! We woke up ready to board the next looooooong train journey to Goa.




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He got us to all types of posesHe got us to all types of poses
He got us to all types of poses

He asked for a hug after this shot and I told him he'd had enough for one day.


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