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Published: November 26th 2009
From the luxury of Star Clipper we set off into the splendid chaos of India. We had made some contacts on the ship and so the omelette chef - a Goan - arranged our accommodation for us. It was a very modest but wonderfully friendly beach side 'block of flats' called "Fisherman's" at Colva beach south of Goa. We shared a cab with another passenger, though he was headed to the other end of the luxury scale in the Ramada. At Fisherman's we were met by our Goan friend as well as host Cris Rodrigues, and then started one of those memorable Sunday sessions: drinking Kingfisher beer; eating fresh fish and squid barbequed in Goan spices; talking with Goan fishermen, a Phillipino ship's agent, and a Jamaican ship's steward. The air was hot and humid with the smell of fermenting, dried fish on the breeze. Around us was a real fishing village with wooden skiffs out front, dogs, pigs, crows and of course smiling children and women in colourful saris. We spent the evening walking the perfect beach with several thousand Indian citizens, some of whom seemed really keen to sell us stuff. Thankfully it was good natured and oh so
relaxed. The water was mid-20s or just cool enough to satisfy. Much mirth when a very large Sikh guy tried to ride a jetski.
It was a hot sticky night, not unlike our childhood memories of Queensland coastal beach house before open windows went out of fashion. We could hear the waves breaking gently on the shore all night. We woke to a cool breeze and the sounds of the village. After a hearty open air breakfast - more omelettes - we took a driver and explored Panaji, Old Goa and the surrounding areas. The area is lush being watered by two large rivers which were important during the days of the Portugese explores and settlers. They left towns with cathedrals, churches and narrow streets reminiscent of the older parts of Lisbon. We lunched at a touristy but interesting spice plantation and saw cinnamon, allspice and turmeric. For a fee one - not us - could mount an elephant and have him spray you with creek water. Great to wind our way back to Fisherman's where the owner and family had had a successful afternoon netting some 300kg of baby mackerel and other small fish. General joy. We enjoyed
the water for an hour and a fresh fish meal. It was drizzling softly on the palm trees. Heading out for the evening, Greg dislodged one contact lens in the driveway and it was a miracle that with the generosity of the locals he was able to find it unscathed. Up at 5 the next morning and heading to Delhi. Fond farewells to our
generous host Cris and realised that we look forward to coming to Goa again.
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