Hong Kong

Hong Kong

The Most Amazing City in the World.

I never had high expectations when my partner first told me he had used my vacation money for two tickets to Hong Kong. I was suppose to go to Paris that fall, not some over developed city in the South Pacific.

Much to my surprise, the 16 hour flight from LAX went rather smoothly in our coach class seats. China Airlines is one of the last that actually provide amenities without tacking on fees to your ticket. No doubt due to the heavy subsidies they receive from the PRC.

I believe my opinion of Hong Kong began to change as we approached the runway. The airport, situated on it's own island, is reportedly the largest in the world, entirely reclaimed from the ocean and boasts the only 5 diamond rated restaurant located in an airport. No surprise really when you consider that 40-50% of Hong Kong's GDP comes from the millions of tourists that pour into the city each year. Of course the airport is lovely and perfectly designed - it has to be to facilitate the flow of tourists. From the airport several modern and recently completed bridges take you directly into the cities heart within ten minutes, by either train or bus.

If you travel, I shouldn't have to tell you that many of the best hotels in the world have their flagship hotels here in Hong Kong such as the Peninsula and Mandarin Oriental. Of course I didn't realize that on my first visit and, instead, booked a room at a four star hotel for a mere $70usd/night. Oh yes, the exchange rate in Hong Kong is probably the most important factor in attracting visitors. The old myths and fairy tales of a place that sells hand woven Italian suits for $50 does exist! And after talking with other tourists both on the plane and in the streets, I was surprised to hear that many had come to Hong Kong on their annual shopping spree. And boy is it ever a shoppers paradise. There are seemingly endless markets, most open only one or two nights a week, that sell nothing but handbags, shoes, electronics, and anything else you can imagine and then some. Most markets are located in Kowloon which is north of Hong Kong Island on the mainland.

And of course there are malls, malls like you have never seen before that span several floors in multiple skyscrapers connected by sky bridges. My very hotel had eight floors devoted to retail bliss. The main mall in Central is clad inside and out with marble, brass, and gold. Their bathrooms are all equipped with butler service, attendants, and shoe shiners galore. Every high-end brand from every continent all call Hong Kong home. No doubt, these products have long been manufactured in China and must come way of Hong Kong to be shipped out to the rest of the world. For this reason Hong Kong also boasts the ever expanding, largest container port in the world. Appropriate for the largest city in China no doubt.

After a few days of what seemed like constant haggling and five star restaurants, I needed a break. So I took out my handy map and plotted a course for a monastery outside of the city on a different Island twenty minutes by fairy. The Po Lin Monastery is one of the oldest Buddhist monasteries in Hong Kong and is well known in Asia. Upon berthing on what appears like a deserted island coming from the heart of the city, I was not overly enthusiastic to find out a bus was to take me to the top of the island's highest peak. Nor was I happy to find the bus had no air conditioning and resembled my old elementary school bus. Did I mention the bus followed the circumference of the mountain until at last, after an hour of bumpy sweaty driving we finally reached the top? Well, fear not - travelers will be happy to hear that reaching the mountains peak is now easier than ever after the city erected a convenient cable car system actually located at the airport.

The Po Lin Monastery also boasts the largest out-door Buddha in the world. Clad in bronze and seated at the top of the mountains peak, visitors and pilgrims make their way up the six story stair cases to pay their respects. The grounds of the monastery are quintessentially Asian in every respect. The balance of nature provides the best background for the tired traveler. I even found myself asleep against one of the cherry trees overlooking the bay. While you're here, I suggest trying the restaurant the monks have created and personally staff to quell the hunger pains of the pilgrims and tourists that venture to their home. Everything is made fresh and grown locally - all vegetarian of course. Although I had spent most of my day trekking to and around the monastery, I left feeling as if I had been at a spa all day. Clear headed and detoxed to the fullest extent my body would allow.

Continue another day...

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For a city and an entire region of the world I had initially dreaded ever visiting, Hong Kong has become the city I yearn to return to time and time again. With every visit I find something new and amazing I had never intended on discovering. I leave only because I have to or I would surely stay and call this place home, content to never wander the world again like so many other expatriates who call this place home. Till we meet again, mon amor...

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Lantau Island- the Po Lin monastery. Amazing temple located on the top of the Island and containing the largest outdoor Buddha on it's peak. I highly recommend the restaurant serviced by the monks of the monastery. They have a killer vegetarian three course meal for nothing. Also, there is a quaint ex-pat bar, The China Bear, located next the the Fairy drop-off. The island, reached by way of the Star Fairy, is a leisurely twenty minute ride from the main port in Central.
Aberdeen- Tai Pak Restaurant is a definet must see. This six story, floating restaurant in Aberdeen Harbour is ornately guilded from head-to-toe is classic Mandarin fashion. Ask for a table in the throne room which has an exact replica of the Emperor's Throne. Perfect place for a taste of traditional chinese fare. Unfortunely, this was my only excursion to southern Hong Kong Island. There is also well known beaches and a quant fishing village on this side of the island.
Victoria Peak- Traveling up the esculators through the mid-levels, access is found by way of a train bus. This people tram, which goes virtually straight up the mountain at 45 degree angles, is a great way to see the city. Once you get to the peak, there are the obvious tourist huts and eateries. There is also a nature trail, frequented by locals for morning and evening jobs, which raps around the peak to provide views of both the Southern and Northern areas of the island. The mountain range which seperates the island, and where Vistoria Peak is situated, has a preserved rainforest setting running along the island's divide. What else can I say? Amazing, spectacular view of the entire Hong Kong metropolitain area. The is no way you can travel to Hong Kong and not visit the Peak.
The outer Territories- Visited a historic Confucous/Buddhist Temple with a 'wishing-tree.' Also toured an old walled-in village, the China-Hong Kong border over-looking the no-man's land barrier. A key point, the largest Temple in Hong Kong which is situated high above the outskirts of Kowloon. Amazing Temple complex- another must-see.
City Proper- All the sites one would expect to see in Hong Kong such as: the night market in Kowloon, the Museums of art, science, and city planning, central and it's five star mall containing every fashion label imagineable, causeway bay shopping and bars, mid-level sites like the botanical garden and various multi-ethnic barrios.

PICKZ:

Restaurant- The chic scandinavian "Finds" restaurant, owned by Russian mafia, is superb. Great for lunch or evening cuisine. Not to be missed. Other worthwhile venues concentrated along Windham Street in the Mid-Levels.
Bar- For a truely Hong Kong Bar scene, Dragon-I wins out. Brimming to the rim with the cream of Hong Kong's young, beautiful, and successful, there is always a good-time to be had.
Shopping- Skip the high priced Central stores and questionable Kowloon street markets. Causeway Bay is your best bet for diversity and a deal. Electronics and suits are to be had at unbelievable prices and quality. Hands down, best place for shopping all around.
Hotel- Though I try to obstain from recommending high-end hotels, it is simply impossible in Hong Kong. The Mandarin Oriental in Central is the original base of this international chain ranked best in the world and simply unsurpassed by all measures. Another front runner, The Peninsula, lies across the bay in Kowloon.


Additional Comments:
One of the best points of the city was it's subway system. Clean, quiet- sliding glass doors seperate riders from smells until the train stops, and super fast. If for no other reason, I could move to Hong Kong for theor Metro. Also, there is a large expat community, concentrated in the Mid-levels and Central. Tea time is best enjoyed in the historic Peninsula in Kowloon. If you're looking to have a night out on the town, Windham Steet is your destination of choice. The street closes down to trafic at night and patrons of the various bars and clubs pour out onto the street.

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