WHAT A DIFFERENCE A LAKE MAKES

I remember watching a lot of late-night local TV programmes during my first trip to China. It was not by choice since local channels were all the hostels (that I stayed in) had. The content of the programmes best remains forgotten, but a particular advertisement has left a lasting impression for the most part because it was on almost every channel! It was an old school montage of scenic videos where in his most mellifluous voice, the narrator rhapsodized over the natural beauty and charm of Hangzhou, particularly, the West Lake.

I have no idea how much of the city's immense popularity (apparently, it is one of the most visited tourist destinations in the country) is attributable to that blatant, unabashed hard sell (what happened to subliminal advertising?), but it sure did pique my curiosity about the much-touted “heaven on earth”. Hmm... maybe much of it.

Fast forward to last month.

Coming in from Xi’an, the stark contrast between the two cities was apparent from the outset: fresher air, cleaner streets, modernity and affluence everywhere… But what struck me the most was that the people seemed more ‘chill’ than folks in the other Chinese cities that I had been to. And I suspect the lake has a huge part to play in soothing the frayed nerves of harried city dwellers. This is no ordinary lake in the city. Situated right smack in the middle of Hangzhou, its tranquil waters are surrounded by misty hills, green willows, manicured gardens, quaint bridges and pavilions, all of which form a near hermetic buffer against the urban chaos.

Thus it comes as no surprise that Hangzhou has perennially topped the list of the most livable cities in China, not to mention, one of the most scenic too. Luckily for us, we stayed just across the road from the lake. Not the Hyatt or the Shangrila. That is just wishful thinking.

The West Lake was not the only reason for stopping over at Hangzhou. Its cuisine is supposedly renowned throughout the country. However, we made the unfortunate mistake of having our first meal at the city’s most famous restaurant, one that has been reviewed ad nauseam in travel guides and websites. Their signature dishes were nothing to write home about. And judging by the leftovers at the other tables, we were not the only ones who thought so. Moral of the story: Never buy into the hype. Thankfully, lunch at a restaurant highly recommended by the locals restored our faith in Hangzhou cuisine.

So, in my best efforts to boost Hangzhou’s already booming tourism further (although it is clearly none of my business), I say if you are in the vicinity, drop by for a couple of nights, meditate on life by the lake or simply to sample good old fashioned Grandma’s* cooking. Just avoid the weekends, unless you enjoy jostling with half the population of Shanghai. Or so we heard.


* The Grandma’s (外婆家 / Wai Po Jia) is THE place to eat in Hangzhou. They have branches everywhere. Just ask around.

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