Climbing a Holy mountain with four Israelies

Mt Kilash-probably one of the most sacred mountains in Asia, or perhaps the world. Millions of pilgrims make the journey to the mountain, and Asia's most important rivers also begin here, such as the Indus, the Sutlej, and the Humla Karnali (leads to the Ganges) . I kid you not, this is one special mountain...and so I had to see it!
I met four other crazy Israelies and we rented a jeep which was to take four days to get to the trailhead from Lhasa. The drive was spectacular, as we passed through some of the most unreal landscapes i have ever seen. Tibet is a high altitude plateau, and alot of this area is treeless and desert-like. With sand dunes infront of us, we could see the Himalayan mountains in the background. There was also plenty of lush grasslands, with Yaks and horses grazing away, wating to be eaten (Yak and yak products are the main food staples for Tibetans). We were also lucky enough to see the endangered Black Neak Crane and Tibetan Antelope. The antelope are endangered because their antlers are big money in the not-so-black market; you can buy them everywhere!
Our nights consisted of Tibetan villages with mud huts and friendly locals and some travellers. Paryang was a dusty town with a great vibe, with kids playing with bike wheels and the mountains surrouding them. We had to stay there two nights on the way back, which I will explain why later!
Finally arriving at Darchen, where the Kailash Kora (kora means the pilgimage around an object of mountain, usually in the clockwise direction) began, we found the most wonderful place to set up camp. The sun was setting on the mountain, and we all settled down for some star-gazing. In the distance was a lightning storm, which would light up the sky along with the shotting stars. It was hard to sleep that night cause we were surrounded by such stunning scenery.
The trek had begun the next day. Kailash is a special trek as it combines natural and spiritual scenery. We passed a site where sky burials are performed that morning. In a sky burrial, the body is unwrapped from a sheet, and is then cut up into pieces so the vultures flying above can carry the body up to the heavens. There is no wood in Tibet and the ground is frozen most of the year, so this practice makes much sence. We didnt see a burrial that day, which is good, but we could see the clothes that are symbolically left behind.
After hours of trekking, we made it to Dirapuk monastery. All of the monasteries on the kora were destroyed during the cultural revolution, and they were rebuilt in te 1980s. Still, this monastery had the 'back in time' feel to it. There was a cave built in the 14th century, where a saint meditated and found the kora. It was a beaufitul place, and had the most unreal views of the mountain. It snowed that night too, which made it even more special (and cold!!).
Waking up in the monastery was great...but with no electricity it made for a cold trip to the outhouse!! We started trekking the hardest part of the kora that day. It was a slow-going 600m acent, as the altitude was 5630m at Drolma-la Pass. I was so out of breath and felt very sick from the altitude, and it was for sure the most harded thing I have ever done for that reason. Of course, there was a blizzard when I got to the pass, which made me feel even more disorientated. As soon as I started hiking down though, I felt better...and the amazing views definetly helped!
The last day we also ran into snow, but it passed as soon as it came. We were lucky to have sunshine through the green valley back to Darchen...it was a great hike that day. But when we got to the end, Elade realized he left his SANDALS, yes his sandals, back at the last nights camp so he went and hiked through the night to get them. Did i mention I met 4 crazy Israelis? And did i mention it rained that ngiht? The next day he actually came back, with sandals in hand. Keep this in mind later in the story...
We started to make our way back to Lhasa, and after an 8 hour drive we got to Paryang again. Right before we got there, while driving in the dark (with no headlights), Nadir noticed a bag fall off the roof. Pintso-la (our wonderful driver) slammed on the brakes, and we got out and realized that 3 of the bags were gone!!!!!!! Of course...mine was one of them. We drove back the next day, 6 hours, with no luck. So, I have lots everything...which I guess is not a big deal in the end. I also have to mention that when you finish the Kora, you sins are supposed to be erased. I guess mine where not, as it seems that my kharma is non-existant!
So, after wearing my grubby trekking clothes for about 8 days, we got to Shigatse where I am now. We are at a great hotel, with the room on the roof and a great view of the city. The other night we met a Nepalese/Tibetan guy who can play a mean guitare. That mixed with many Lhasa beers equals much singing. We sang on the roof till 3am, filling the streets with off key tunes. Right now, I'm re-buying all my lost gear, including backpack. I'm so cheap that I am buying 1RMB shirts (less than 15 cents) and 3RMB undies. Maybe I will look more Chinese now and people will stop staring? We are also preparing our trip to Everest Base camp, but it's hard to do cause you need travel permits, and it's very difficult to go without a jeep and guide. We are hitching and public bussing it!!! Should be a great adventure. Then it's a 4 day trek back to a village called Tingri. Hopfully my new "North Fake" bag holds up!!!

Take care everyone and I thank those who have been in touch...
love from kristen

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