Lhasa

With hardly any sleep, I managed to make it to Lhasa in relatively one piece. The flight here was the best ever, as we passed over the mountains and onto the Tibetan plateau.

Lhasa is a great place, friendly people and a totally different vibe than the rest of China. However, it's not the magical and exotic place people make it out to be, as you can feel the Motherland's colonial attitude everywhere. Ever since the CCPs 'liberation' of Tibet in 1951, there has been a strong Chinese prescence in this province. The government is trying to drown the Tibetan population by promoting Han migration to Tibet, and they come in droves. You can't blame them for coming either, as the government is giving them incentives like tax breaks. I've also heard that the one child policy does not imply for the Han in minority areas either, for they can have 2 kids here (so can the Tibetans, which really is no good causethey want big families). Of course, this means more Han in TIbet. THe shop and street signs are written in big Chinese characters with little Tibet writing on the side. Also, Mandarin is the first language in schools, which is the same as in Xinjiang and all over China. When you walk through the Barkor, the pilgrimage around the JOkhang temple, you can see people prostrating and praying. I think the only reason that the government allows this is because the tourists like it!! It is a visual display of the religion, making it seem like they are not limited in their practices. But when it comes to teaching and learning for monks, their numbers in monastries are limited by the CCP. It's all a very sad thought...

The Chinese also truly believe that the development of Tibet is an act of goodwill towards these minority people, but it seems as though the Han are benefiting most, while many Tibetans either beg or sell trinkets to tourists like me. I dont know whether being here is a part of the problem or the solution. Most likely neither!

Either way, you can feel the influence of the Chinese everywhere. Surrounding the Potala, which always looks remote and majestic in photographs, is the classic Chinese 'bathroom tile' style buildings. There is also a square with the Chinese flag to remind you that you are in China...but thank goodness the gov has resisted a Mao statue!!

When you leave the Chinese part of town, and enter the Tibetan part, there is a totally different feel. The architecture is different, with white buildings decorated with colorful awenings. Alot of the streets are devoted to tourists though, which makes them full of trinket and trekking shops. Most signs are in English too, and Western restraunts serve expensive hamburgers and wine. However, it's possible to get away from this, walking down random alleys where Yak butter and prayer wheels are sold.

I also visited a orphanage the other day and played with the most amazing kids. (Dickie Orphanage: http://tibetanorphanfund.org/)They were soo happy to see us, as they do not get many visitors throughout the year, and only leave the orphanage to go to school and the older kids work. "The children are at the orphanage because their parents died or were too poor to care for them properly. They are often found abandoned on the roadside" (TOF.org). There is about 80 kids, ranging from 6 months to 15 years...all are Tibetan. Besides the small funding from the government, the orphanage relies on donations from residents and visitors...so if you are feeling in a good mood you can make a donation through the website. Trust me, they need it... The place is so small, and 8 kids sleep in one tiney room. I do not think that is the biggest problem though; it's the amount of street kids still out there and need a home. Thankfully, a new orphanage is being built, with enough room for 200 kids.

School, clothes, first aid and food supplies are also needed...as the kids can draw up a storm! We had a wonderful art class, where we coloured and painted away. The kids seemed so happy, and I wonder if they are like this after the visitors leave. They are truly wonderful kids. My little friend Sonam did not let go of my hand for an hour and a half. THe majority of the time i was with a girl named Renqisamo, and we made jewelry and did each other's hair...you know, girlie stuff!! She was so sweet, and today when I left I felt very sad to say goodbye!

Back in the tourist part of town, we decided to do some sightseeing, seeing as being in Lhasa has been dominated by planning our trip throughout tibet. We went to Sera monastry, but instead of gong inside and paying 55Y to the goverment, we decided to hike up the mountain behind it. It was pretty tough, but felt good to break a sweat. We got to the top, where a smaller monastry was and we were invited inside for Yak butter tea and sweets. The place had a stunning view, and had wonderful Tankas and photos of the DL (which are illegal in Tibet, along with the Tibetan flag.) The man took us to the prayer rooms too, where we made a donatiopn that went to the monastry, and not the CCP. It's pretty frustrating, because all entrance fees across the country fund the gov and not the people that it should! On the hike back down we saw a massive eagle, a species I have never seen before, it was beautiful!!

Currently, Nadir and I are trying to find some more people to come on our trip to Everest base camp, and the 4 day hike from there to another village. We are trying to get to EBC by public transport, which NO ONE seems to do, as they all rent 4X4 land cruisers! We are also planning on doing the Mt. Kalash Kora in a few days, which is a hike around probably one of the holiest mountains in the world for Muslims and Buddhists. It is said to be the mystical Mount Meru, or the center of the universe. Mt. Kailash has also never been climbed due to it's religious importance, although many selfish foreigners have come close!

For now, I will leave you with the top 10 of Lhasa:
1)Watching tourists get ripped off in the Barkhor (and watching myself get ripped off too)
2)Getting lost in the Barkhor after being ripped off
3)Having a cold shower at 7 am when it's about 8 degrees out
4)Getting an eye infection and going to a Tibetan doctor
5)Drinking Lhasa Beer in the square infont of the Potala (not very Buddhist of us...but hey!)
6)Hearing Tibetans sing from the top of a mountain, looking over Lhasa
7)Watching tourists inhale oxygen canisters from altitude sickness
8)Holding a little boy while he dozed off to sleep
9) Hearing TIbetan pop music
10) Eating the Yak Cheesecake at Snowlands Restraunt


Take care,
love Kristen

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